Fishing
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Home | Forum | Help | Chat | Search | Membermap | ProShop | CharterMember | Login | Register
Myfishfinder.com forum sponsored in part by:
FishUSA.com Fishing Tackle MarCum Technologies The Fishing Tackle Superstore
Check out MyHuntingForum.com Just like iceshanty and myfishfinder only for the hunter.
This board sponsored by
Please visit our sponsor Fish307.com Please visit our sponsor Salmon River Guide in Pulaski, Ny
Sponsor this board
+  MyFishFinder Forum
|-+  MFF US Northeast
| |-+  New York (Moderators: ChenBassHead, Coldfeet, adkRoy, Raquettedacker, prchslyr)
| | |-+  replacing spinning rod handle
« previous next »
Pages: [1] Print
Author Topic: replacing spinning rod handle  (Read 3526 times)
kchamp
Sr. Member
***
Posts: 651
Location: vernon, ny


fish hard or stay home


« on: Nov 26, 2010, 11:04 PM »

is there a way to replace a handle on a spinning rod
Logged
outdoorsman
Sr. Member
***
Posts: 555
Location: Henniker, NH



« Reply #1 on: Nov 27, 2010, 07:04 AM »

Yes.  Clean up the blank (light sanding), apply epoxy to rod (I like U-40 Rod Bond because it is goopy and can fill voids), then put handle on and align.  If you buy a new handle, you will have to ream out the cork to fit right on the rod.  Quite often spinning reel handles are in multiple pieces (fore-grip, reel seat, and rear grip...sometimes a rod butt too).  Multiple pieces are attached in the same way, although it can make alignment trickier.  The most important thing though, is that you align the reel seat correctly (it will help to put a reel on it).
Logged

"I just want to get the work over as soon as possible so I can do some fishing. Fishing relaxes me. It's like yoga, except that I still get to kill something."
jj7leaf
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 220
Location: Oswego



« Reply #2 on: Nov 27, 2010, 08:22 AM »

It is long and time consuming, but it can be done.

I read on the rodbuilding forum that soaking the handle and reel seat in hot/boiling water will soften the epoxy on a handle.  So a few years ago I did a bamboo rebuild for a buddy that I used that method for and simply soaked the handle in water brought to a boil, use a towel for your hand and slowly try to turn and pull  the reel seat and cork handle off the blank.  for the old bamboo fly rod it worked remarkably well.  then 3 years ago I had a handle set up on a factory spinning rod that my Shelty pup chewed up one night.  I tried the same method and after scalding my hands for over an hour, i realiezed that this method was nto going to work on my jigging rod.   I have done 1 more since then and this is how I went about it.

 
Usually start with a dremel grinder do a shallow split on the cork on both sides.  REMEMBER YOU ARE WORKING WITH A GRINDER NEAR A GRAPHITE BLANK!!!
If you don't have a dremel or don't trust the girnder hand, the first time I used a box cutter with the blade only out a little bit, scored the line then lingthened the blade going deeper till I touched the blank at the butt end, then just break the cork off, I use dull knife for removing larger chunks of cork.  Use the dremel or a hack saw to split the reel seat if that is being removed too, pry it apart and break it off the blank.  After the rough work you should be left with a nasty epoxy and cork covered blank. 

Where the original handle epoxy didn't cover all the graphite you get some bare graphite areas with coarse edges to the epoxy.  In these areas you need a sturdy sharp knife, put it on edge near the coarse epoxy break, you want to try to pry or chip the epoxy up with a knife twist.  Tedious and time consuming.... but take your time and remove everything that didn't bond well on the first handle.

Now you start the sanding, if you have a good eye and controlled hand you can use a coarser paper to start.  If not or once the larger sections of cork and epoxy are closer to the blank go to a very fine paper.  I keep a pitcher of water close at hand and dip the blank and wipe it down to get a clear view of your progress.  You don't need to take everything off but you are looking for a nice clean smooth look when you are done.  Remember that the epoxy is bonded to blank already and epoxy will bond to itself in areas where some are left.   

Easiest way to tell if you reaching the end of the epoxy and reaching into graphite is the color change where you area sanding but when you see some graphite (dull gray) start to show under the epoxy you have gone far enough.   DO NOT remove too much into the graphite or you start getting into the blank's wall and reduce the strength.  At the same time, do not leave thick built up areas of epoxy that will cause you to have to ream your cork/reel seat or arbors out to allow it to slip up the blank.  Remember you are starting the handle over the blank backwards already so you need to reduce anything that is larger in diameter that the very butt end of the blank.

When you are done , you should have NO cork, graphite blank showing through in alot of areas and the remaining epoxy should be a very thin layer that has smooth transitions from blank to epoxy.

From there it is a normal handle installation.

hope this helps


j
Logged
kchamp
Sr. Member
***
Posts: 651
Location: vernon, ny


fish hard or stay home


« Reply #3 on: Nov 27, 2010, 11:14 AM »

thanks for the help I will just have to find a handle
now
Logged
Reel Force
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 322
Location: North East N.Y.



« Reply #4 on: Nov 27, 2010, 01:46 PM »

Look @ mudhole.com ...
Logged

outdoorsman
Sr. Member
***
Posts: 555
Location: Henniker, NH



« Reply #5 on: Nov 27, 2010, 05:50 PM »

Look @ mudhole.com ...

I agree.  Lots of rod building stuff there.
Logged

"I just want to get the work over as soon as possible so I can do some fishing. Fishing relaxes me. It's like yoga, except that I still get to kill something."
kchamp
Sr. Member
***
Posts: 651
Location: vernon, ny


fish hard or stay home


« Reply #6 on: Nov 27, 2010, 08:28 PM »

I just toke the tape of the end of the rod to see what it looked like and the person that had it before me, cut through the rod blank when they cut the end of the rod off, cut at least  6 inches off, is this still fixable or is it a waste of time, not sure if the rod blank runs all the way down the handle never had to work on one before, I can use it like that or got a new one they are on sale right now for 35.00. I just like the extra handle
Logged
outdoorsman
Sr. Member
***
Posts: 555
Location: Henniker, NH



« Reply #7 on: Nov 29, 2010, 06:47 AM »

The blank should run through the entire handle.  One option would be to get a shorter replacement handle...another would be to move the handle to a more forward position on the rod (this would change the distance between the reel and the first guide, along with changing the action of the rod, but it is still an option).  Considering something a "waste of time" is more opinion than anything...sometimes re-doing an entire rod is part of the challenge, and you would learn how to build a rod.
Logged

"I just want to get the work over as soon as possible so I can do some fishing. Fishing relaxes me. It's like yoga, except that I still get to kill something."
jj7leaf
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 220
Location: Oswego



« Reply #8 on: Nov 29, 2010, 11:38 AM »

Can you post a picture of the handle?

If this is just a shortened rear cork section and there is a nothing wrong with the handle itself, you could just add a butt cap and leave as is.

but if they cut lengthwise along the blank and got into the blank material you may be in for problems at the handle.

What do you plan on using it for?  Is it a panfish rod or are you going after salmon/carp?


jj
Logged
esox v
Sr. Member
***
Posts: 4,513
Location: Baldwinsville


« Reply #9 on: Nov 29, 2010, 05:37 PM »

If the Cut is anywhere behind the reel seat you can easily extended it by finding an old Junk rod that has a similar taper. cut back the junk rod so that it snugly fits inside the end of the blank of the rod your fixing so that it will extend approximately 4" inside the good blank.. roughen up the plug... coat with 5 minute epoxy and insert into the but end of the rod. I've done this many times to extend a rod blank 6 inches. don't let the plug extend past the foregrip.   
Logged

"There is no crueler tyranny than that which is perpetrated
under the shield of law and in the name of justice."
--Charles de Montesquieu (1689-1755)
For tyranny to work some idiots are required…

The most dangerous thing any nation faces..  is a citizenry capable of trusting a liar to lead them....
kchamp
Sr. Member
***
Posts: 651
Location: vernon, ny


fish hard or stay home


« Reply #10 on: Dec 02, 2010, 12:14 PM »

sorry it took so long to get some pics but I drop the wifes camera taking them 
Logged
BAZOOKAJOE
Sr. Member
***
Posts: 1,249
Location: Oneida Lake, NY



« Reply #11 on: Dec 02, 2010, 02:44 PM »

I would throw that one out and go buy a new jigging rod for $20.   tipup
Logged
H.T.
Sr. Member
***
Posts: 4,262
Location: palermo ny


I AM PROUD TO BE AN *OPPORTUNIST*


« Reply #12 on: Dec 02, 2010, 04:54 PM »

I would throw that one out and go buy a new jigging rod for $20.   tipup
that is what i was thinking  rolleyes rolleyes rolleyes rolleyes rolleyes rolleyes kiss kiss lipsrsealed
Logged

Pages: [1] Print 
« previous next »
Jump to:  
Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2006-2007, Simple Machines

Home | Forum | Help | Chat | Search | Membermap | ProShop | CharterMember | Login | Register
Contact | Disclaimer | Sponsor Myfisfinder.com | About
© 2004- MyFishFinder.com
All Rights Reserved.
Ice Fishing @ www.iceshanty.com Fishing @ www.myfishfinder.com Hunting @ www.myhuntingforum.com
RSS feed for this boards last ten postsRSS ?