Downrigger Rod/Spooling Question

[skinnywater]

Braid

[ericbres]

Braid

Ya ... although I am learning that isn't so easy 
Soooo many different choices out there. with so many varying reviews.

[ericbres]

Wanted to take a minute and thank all the members who posted in this (and the other trolling/winni) threads giving me tips and advice for my first trip in the spring Winni derby.
Three of us on the boat (me, fiance and family friend) did pretty well all things considered (rookie to trolling). Friday we bagged a bunch of pretty fat small mouth, so we changed things up a bit and finally landed a couple small salmon.
Saturday was slow thanks to the wind - we ended up fishing in spots we didn't want to and it was slow. One laker and a small salmon for the day. But things really turned around Sunday as we started to figure out depths, ledges, speeds, colors, etc ...
I think overall for the day we pulled up 8 salmon and 1 laker.
Funny enough - the laker was while we were being checked (for the 2nd time over the weekend) by Fish and Game. So they hung around and watched. Which was funny because one of them kept cheering us on with "wow, that's a derby winner right there". Great guys.

Still some things to learn ... top of the list being "fighting and netting" big fish. We lost a couple of beauties this weekend thanks to, what I believe being, drag too tight and spooking them next to the boat with the net. But again, all things considered and being our first time out - I am thankful for all the advice I've found on here. I'll chalk it up to a success and a TON of fun.

Side note/question - anyone have any experience/facts regarding sitting on the gunwale while trolling? We had a marine patrol come up and give us a warning for sitting on the gunwale (all body parts IN the boat, but asses on the gunwale) while the boat was "moving". I spent some time in the Coast Guard (Newburyport among other places) and always understood it as "headway speed". Never bothering anyone unless, again, they were travelling faster than idle/no wake speeds - and/or - they had body parts hanging over the side.
BUT, maybe I have misunderstood the law?

[Jethro]

Side note/question - anyone have any experience/facts regarding sitting on the gunwale while trolling? We had a marine patrol come up and give us a warning for sitting on the gunwale (all body parts IN the boat, but asses on the gunwale) while the boat was "moving". I spent some time in the Coast Guard (Newburyport among other places) and always understood it as "headway speed". Never bothering anyone unless, again, they were travelling faster than idle/no wake speeds - and/or - they had body parts hanging over the side.
BUT, maybe I have misunderstood the law?

Here is the RSA you are looking for. Nothing to do with headway speeds or not, just can't do it while the boat is in gear period.:

Section 270-D:7
    270-D:7 Riding on Gunwales, Bow and Transom. – No person shall operate a motorboat or ride as a passenger in a motorboat while sitting on either the starboard or port gunwales or the transom, and no person shall straddle the bow while the motorboat is in operation underway. 
Source. 1990, 171:1, eff. June 26, 1990.

[fishlessman]

does anyone ticket trolling while sitting on a gunwale, ive never seen that. i dont usually even have chairs set out on the boat unless theres a kid or someone elderly. my chair is usually hanging in a rod holder outside the boat just to get it out of the way. on a hot sunny windless day theres no one even at the wheel for the most part

[james1981]

For short  money you can make your own dave davies,  lureparts online, and buy some 30lb coated steel with crimps dicks sporting goods,  I would recommend buying  trolling rudders for them simply attach swivels to the rudders and you are all set and can swap them out.  I have real good luck with various different blades. IN all its about 50 cents each blade, plus coated wire. Inline spinners in size 5 or 6 are the go too. Or even smaller willow, or teardrop blades. size 3 or 4 the same ones on mepps or smaller trout lures.  For the cost of 4 dave davies you can make close to a dozen of them with very little investment in equipment. The plus side is that they are flexible and less drag than normal cowbell rigs.

 I also make them with wire that is for inline spinners, NEVER BUY MEPS again,  you can make all of that from various parts, the ticker on a meps is very similar to an earing backing, the body is sold online, beads are a dime a dozen, I recommend buying glass or real silver from a jewelry store like michaels.  Same goes for making the dave davies.  You can make Kennebunk spinners same pattern for about half or a third the cost. Once invested the most expensive parts are the body and the hooks. At discounts and clearance you can get trebles for really cheep.

[Seahunt]

Still some things to learn ... top of the list being "fighting and netting" big fish. We lost a couple of beauties this weekend thanks to, what I believe being, drag too tight and spooking them next to the boat with the net.

I think your assumption is absolutely correct regarding too tight drags.
Most fish want to get away from restraint. When they see the boat and then the net it's natural for them to try to turn and run. The bigger the fish are the more apt they are to break your leader or weakest link in your set up. It could be a bad knot. The rule of thumb is to have your drag set at 25% of your weakest line strength. This should be your leader. So, if you have a 6# leader e.g., you should have no more than 1.5# drag.
With experience, you will get a feel for the correct amount of drag.
When big fish get towards the boat and/or net and turn, the proper drag will let them run. Eventually, they'll tire out and be able to be netted.
I like to have my net in the water when the fish get to it so they're not further spooked vs. poking it in their face at the last second.
I like to have my drags so loose (when the fish is near the boat) that I have to reel down with my rod to gain line.
Using the appropriate sized rod per the line set up and target species allows it to be an excellent shock absorb-er.
One does not need a broom stick sized rod on Winni.
   

[boondox]

Seahunt quick question. We're did the 25% come from?? I have always used 20% off the reel measured with s spring scale.. the 20 % leves room for adjustment of the drag  so I would set mine about 1.2 pounds..  I am not ridiculing you on this..  some of the ocean folks know more then others on why to do it then why not..  I do know the 20% is multiplied by friction of the guides as it goes out the tip and it the 1.2 becomes closer to 5 pounds etc etc.. as the line  pass threw the guides.. I guess I  just was curious why to use 25% over 20% if there is any  rime or reasons to it?? Any how thanks for all info you can give..

[Seahunt]

Seahunt quick question. We're did the 25% come from?? I have always used 20% off the reel measured with s spring scale.. the 20 % leves room for adjustment of the drag  so I would set mine about 1.2 pounds..  I am not ridiculing you on this..  some of the ocean folks know more then others on why to do it then why not..  I do know the 20% is multiplied by friction of the guides as it goes out the tip and it the 1.2 becomes closer to 5 pounds etc etc.. as the line  pass threw the guides.. I guess I  just was curious why to use 25% over 20% if there is any  rime or reasons to it?? Any how thanks for all info you can give..

I certainly didn't take your comment as ridicule, boondox. 
25-30% is what I've read from many sources over the years.
I expect "where it came from" is based on success?
I've used the 25% ratio for stripers on the salt for years without break offs due to fish.
20% would certainly work. The difference between 1.2 and 1.5# of drag on 6# leader on Winni and our similar lakes here in NH is kinda splitting hairs as is figuring friction (resistance) for line guides etc..
I'm not saying they're not factors because of course they are.
I can assure you that I've brought many of "our" 4# and less salmon, bows and lakers etc. in on 20% of drag or less as I tend to feather the drag "up" when the fish get closer to the boat.
If you start out with a lot line out, as the reel fills up, often times the drag changes.
Lots and lots of factors. I was just trying to give the poster I quoted some basic info to start from.
I always wince a little when I read about all the "good" fish lost at the boat.      

[boondox]

Thanks that figures on the 25 to 30 % and ya your right on the more line out the drag changes.. then you change and it gets closer to boat and break offs happen..  well its just good to know thanks for the info.. 

[JMZ]

How often do you change the line on trolling poles? I plan on changing the mono every year. What about the braid? I only fish once per week.

[Mac Attack]

How often do you change the line on trolling poles? I plan on changing the mono every year. What about the braid? I only fish once per week.

This is why I went to braid a few years back.
Sun and ozone doesn't degrade it like mono.
I am planning on 5 yrs with braid.

[ericbres]

Another question regarding the downriggers themselves ... one of the rigs we were given has frayed line, so I was going to replace it.

Any thoughts on braid vs steel? It's braid on there now, and it seems to work ok. My initial thought would be the steel line would be harder to replace, but - what do I know? 

[JMZ]

Thanks. I'm a newbe to trolling. I troll for browns and walleye in NE PA. I plan to use 70yd 30# braid backing and 70 yd 15# FC on top. I use planner boards. What do you think?

[Seahunt]

Another question regarding the downriggers themselves ... one of the rigs we were given has frayed line, so I was going to replace it.

Any thoughts on braid vs steel? It's braid on there now, and it seems to work ok. My initial thought would be the steel line would be harder to replace, but - what do I know? 

I would definitely go steel over braid. Your frayed braid is the primary reason.
You shouldn't have any issues putting the steel on.
If you keep track of your depth finder, steel is a one and done.