MyFishFinder Forum
MFF US Northeast => New York => Topic started by: JWHORF on May 08, 2023, 06:26 PM
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I am looking to start trolling more for walleye (pulling harnesses).
What is everyone's preference for weight (inline vs bottom bouncers)?
Thanks in advance
Jeremy
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In-line if you aren’t near the bottom.
Bottom bouncer if you are.
Simple
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Perfect. I like simple!
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Yea, the inline creates less drag than the bottom bouncer, allowing it to go a little deeper when trolling.
However, if you slowed down to get it to run on the bottom, it would easily hang up on things.
The bottom bouncer, as its name implies, allows you to bounce along the bottom without hanging up on rocks and things.
The wire that extends down below the weight performs this function.
Again, hope this helps.
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I use these and bottom bouncers for Walleye. They have Balsa in one end to keep them upright and will store in a 3700 box or the like. I like the No Snagg sinkers when using floating rigs rather than bottom bouncers. They are a bit spendy though.
https://www.amazon.com/Lindy-No-Snagg-Slip-Sinker-Ounce/dp/B0000AUUFX/ref=asc_df_B0000AUUFX/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=366402682769&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13815401728480801480&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9020516&hvtargid=pla-464871737274&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=77371234958&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=366402682769&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13815401728480801480&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9020516&hvtargid=pla-464871737274#
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Used to make sinkers like that called “ slinky’s” just bought parachute cord cut a few inches pull center filling out seal one end by using a lighter or Match filled them with #8 lead shot heat sealed other end and ad a swivel
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My wife likes to use worm harnesses with bottom bouncers, but we do it a little differently than some. I wouldn't call it "trolling" per say. We don't leave the rod in a holder like trolling. This is in the speed range from .8 to 1.4 mph. We jig the rod making light contact with the bottom on the down pause. I think the fish bite on the down swing and the rod loads up on the upswing. When the water is cooler like now the slow presentation works for us. Also, a slow death hook can be irresistible at certain times. If you want to add a dead stick or two use a longer noodle rod, as they are slow to load up and we don't miss as many bites.
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Used to make sinkers like that called “ slinky’s” just bought parachute cord cut a few inches pull center filling out seal one end by using a lighter or Match filled them with #8 lead shot heat sealed other end and ad a swivel
Slinky’s are also used in the river drifting steelhead ,
You can also use leadcore or snap weights for spinners
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My wife likes to use worm harnesses with bottom bouncers, but we do it a little differently than some. I wouldn't call it "trolling" per say. We don't leave the rod in a holder like trolling. This is in the speed range from .8 to 1.4 mph. We jig the rod making light contact with the bottom on the down pause. I think the fish bite on the down swing and the rod loads up on the upswing. When the water is cooler like now the slow presentation works for us. Also, a slow death hook can be irresistible at certain times. If you want to add a dead stick or two use a longer noodle rod, as they are slow to load up and we don't miss as many bites.
That's the way I like to use them. Hold the rod in my hand and troll at that slow speed slowly raising and lowering to tickle the bottom. I call it trolling and have been doing it that way for the last 45 years. I have big planer boards, small planer boards, all kinds of dipsys and jet divers and I never use them. Nothing but aggravation and a waste of money. I love fishing old school and feeling the elusive walleye pick up my crawler harness. Since I got my I-Pilot it's even better. I let the Minn Kota drive and I got both hands free to fish.
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My wife likes to use worm harnesses with bottom bouncers, but we do it a little differently than some. I wouldn't call it "trolling" per say. We don't leave the rod in a holder like trolling. This is in the speed range from .8 to 1.4 mph. We jig the rod making light contact with the bottom on the down pause. I think the fish bite on the down swing and the rod loads up on the upswing. When the water is cooler like now the slow presentation works for us. Also, a slow death hook can be irresistible at certain times. If you want to add a dead stick or two use a longer noodle rod, as they are slow to load up and we don't miss as many bites.
This is one method we use fishing for eyes up in northern Canada.
Very productive, and as Frank said, it allows you to "feel" the bite.
And it's really crazy when a nice large pike grabs it when you have the rod in your hands.
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I appreciate all the input.
Looking forward to trying out some of these techniques this weekend at Onieda!
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(https://i.postimg.cc/qhnF7qgt/s-l1600.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qhnF7qgt)
Back in my days of trolling I used these, came in different weights. Worked well back trolling Lindy Rigs. Never tried bottom bouncers. I also used the Lindy In-lines some. I still use the Gapen Bait walker if I fish in current early in the season. Anchor, put one on with a minnow on the drop back. Water is usually cold so the walleyes aren't very active, they look at long enough they will hit....h2l
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Bottom bouncers have contributed to many walleyes in my boat.
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In-line if you aren’t near the bottom.
Bottom bouncer if you are.
Simple
I use both systems and they both work well, just depends on where the fish are. I use clip-on weights instead of in-lines for suspended fish but they both accomplish the same thing; Just easier to adjust your weight with clip-ons. I do use the small Lindy slip sinkers if I'm drifting with harnesses but again I include a clip above the harness so I can easily switch weights.
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Update....
I fished using 2 oz bottom bouncers with crawler harnesses at Onieda Lake over the weekend and I would call it a success.
We ended up catching 10 walleye and a bunch of nice perch. However, only 2 of the eyes were keeper size.
Thanks for the help.
I appreciate it.
Thanks
Jeremy
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Other than putting a drift sock out when you are trolling in good/hard winds. Any tips in how to keep straight, we are using A terrova to troll with. The drift sock works OK, but you zig zag a lot like you are avoiding U boats. Those fish go right for the drift sock too. 😂
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In heavy wind and waves best you can do is point it straight into the wind. And use 2 smaller drift socks on the side of the boat. If you run a parachute straight out the back your asking for trouble. Other than that not much you can do. Running big boards might help a bit too.
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Tim if your running a bow mount foot pedal without I pilot your going to have issues
I tried it and used everything to keep inline nothing worked
I sold it and got an I pilot and that spot lock is great for perch and jigging eyes
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We used to perch fish with an anchor on Erie.
We were typically in water 60-80 FOW.
A royal PITA to haul up an anchor every time you wanted to move or leave.
My buddy's Whaler had deep grooves worn into the gunnels on the bow from hauling the anchor rope over them.
I am not kidding.
I wish I had pictures to show you how deep those groves were in the fiberglass.
One day I suggested to him that he should get the ipilot with spotlock.
He went out and bought a 24volt Terrova and 2 deep storage batteries the very next day and we mounted it and immediately went out to test it.
We went out in >2' waves and a 15+ mph wind.
We were that crazy about seeing how it would work.
We were amazed!!
We could not believe how it held us.
Let's say you are in 70 FOW.
You are supposed to put out a ratio of 3:1 on your anchor rode, but who does that???
So, let's assume we put out 150' of anchor rope.
The 70' water you are in is the vertical and the 150' is the hypotenuse.
If you do the math, the horizontal, or the radius of your circle out there works out to be 132.7'.
So, the circle you are in is about 265' in diameter.
You are floating around in a 265' circle!!!!
Almost a football field long for crying out loud.
I want to think the perch schools might sometimes be that large, but I'm a little more realistic than that. lol
Prior to 2017, the ipilot spotlock is reported to hold you in a 10-15' circle.
Newer than 2017, with the puck, it reportedly will hold you in a 5' circle.
That is insane.
I bought my first ipilot Terrova on my 2013 Lund.
It was a game changer to say the least.
I had it on the 21' Trophy and the Ulterra on it.
I have it now on my pontoon with the Riptide Terrova.
I simply don't know why anyone would not at least investigate this.
I know they are not inexpensive.
But look what you have already tied up in fishing gear, electronics, and your boat.
What's another $2k for the Minn Kota, and another $1K for LA deep cycle batteries (or $2k for LiFePo2 batteries if you want to really do it right).
Ipilot is a very close 2nd to my graph.
And ALWAYS oversize your Minn Kota.
The last thing you need is to be running on a 8,9, or 10 setting, chewing up battery and not holding position.
There are better props too for the Minn Kota.
Check out the Kipawa blades -
https://www.kipawapropellers.com/ (https://www.kipawapropellers.com/)
Lastly, couple the ipilot with your kicker and it cannot be beat for a trolling setup.
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I just purchased a 55# 54” shaft for the old 16’ for perching
Ran it all day moving around and on spot lock at the end of the day still had 3 outta 4 lights showing and that’s on a deep cell Walmart group 29 sealed battery it has a 2 year warranty
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I tell everyone I know who is in the market for a boat to buy a boat two thousand under budget and put a Terrova or similar on it.
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The terrova with ipilot is the best upgrade I have ever made, record a track and repeat it or go back to beginning is a great feature. Hands freed up to fish, spotlock is great when on a school, haven't used my anchor in years. Probubly the most significant change to my fishing along with my helix 7 mega si .
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Next year I'm upgrading my main batteries to lithium..
Then the following year my deep cycles will get upgraded
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I thought about up grading to lithium
I get 5 years out of my wet deep cell 36v so the price is a factor for me , so price vs time
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I thought about up grading to lithium
I get 5 years out of my wet deep cell 36v so the price is a factor for me , so price vs time
Lithium has come down a LOT.
Be sure to factor in the fact that you can use all of a lithium battery vs only (supposed to be) using 50% of a lead acid battery.
But nobody only uses 50%.
Anyway, so, a lead acid Series 31, with 100 Ah, is roughly equivalent to a 50 Ah lithium.
On Amazon, you can buy a 12VDC, 50Ah lithium for $150-180.
Now factor in the fact that you easily get 8-12X the life out of a lithium.................
And finally, look at the weight reduction.
A series 31 LA weighs about 80-85 lbs
The 50Ah lithium weighs only 10-11 lbs
But go with the 100Ah!!!
BTW, mine is 228Ah - ;D
Good luck partner!
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one more thing
Lithium batteries are not good (yet) for heavy current draw - like for use as a starting battery.
Bout outboards, lawn tractors, motorcycles, 4x4's, etc. don't require large torque starters that draw gobs of amps.
But if you have an I/O, a car, truck, etc. they really aren't good for that.
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Thanks for the input Mac
I looked up the 50 amp cheapies are 150 , better ones seem to be around 350
I’m running 29s in the Lund
Choices choices 😃
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Thanks for the input Mac
I looked up the 50 amp cheapies are 150 , better ones seem to be around 350
I’m running 29s in the Lund
Choices choices 😃
Let's say the "cheapies" are half as good as the good ones.
Then you only get maybe 4-6X the life out of them compared to a lead acid battery.
Just sayin.
;)
For $150, I would have no problem chancing it.
I would still go with the 100Ah units though.
Two half charges = one full charge
So, effectively, a 100Ah battery should last 2X as long as a 50Ah battery
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👍