MyFishFinder Forum
My Fish Finder Main => General Fishing Discussion => Topic started by: taxid on May 14, 2023, 10:17 AM
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Doesn't seem to be enough clearance to hold the Bearing Buddy in place with the outer seal.
Thanks!
The Youtube videos are great but they are all over the place with and without BB's so it's not clear.
Yeah I know it's probably a stupid question but that's me.
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None of my trailers have EVER had an outer seal :o :-X :-\
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None of my trailers have EVER had an outer seal :o :-X :-\
Well I think that answers my question! :D. It's so obvious now! How could the grease come out into the Bearing Buddy if there is an outer seal in the way! Boy do I feel dumb!
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Like “My Cousin Vinny”…..
My brothers worked as mechanics.
My father was a mechanic.
His father was a mechanic.
I worked in dad’s garage to help pay for college while I was going.
I have done more wheel bearings than I care to admit to.
Anyway, I have never seen an OUTER wheel bearing seal. Inner seal, inner bearing, outer bearing, washer, castle nut with cotter pin, and the dust cap. The bearing buddy replaces the dust cap.
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Still had issues getting the grease fitting off the zerk on the Bearing Buddy copycat. You can't turn the fitting without unscrewing the assembly off the grease gun.Turning has no effect regardless. I think I got what I paid for at $20.00.
And I had no problem tapping in the BB on one side with rubber mallet and board, but the other side I have given up for the time being and popped the dust cover back on.
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Don't take this the wrong way, but if you're having this much trouble with bearing buddies , are you sure your bearings are set correctly? Hate to see you trash a set of bearings because the end play is set wrong.
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Don't take this the wrong way, but if you're having this much trouble with bearing buddies , are you sure your bearings are set correctly? Hate to see you trash a set of bearings because the end play is set wrong.
Not taking it the wrong way at all but why would I have a problem with only one side if I did them both the same way? I tightened down the castle nuts all the way to set the bearings and them backed them off until the wheel turned freely. Then put in the cotter pin and next the Bearing Buddy.
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Could you have two different hubs that don’t have the same machined dimensions where you install the buddies? Or maybe the two buddies are not machined the same size. I believe they can be bought in two different sizes.
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Not taking it the wrong way at all but why would I have a problem with only one side if I did them both the same way? I tightened down the castle nuts all the way to set the bearings and them backed them off until the wheel turned freely. Then put in the cotter pin and next the Bearing Buddy.
I wasn't suggesting that incorrect bearing installation was why the cap wouldn't go on. I just meant that installing buddies should be a straight forward process. If you struggled with that, I could see a chance at incorrect bearing adjustment.
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However, I will ALWAYS replace the bearing outer races and use the new races that came with the new bearings.
I have tried bearing auto greasers of all kind.
I prefer to hand pack, knowing that I know what I'm doing and get grease into every nook and cranny of the bearing.
Spin the wheel/hub when seating the bearings.
Then back off 1/4 turn and insert the cotter pin.
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However, I will ALWAYS replace the bearing outer races and use the new races that came with the new bearings.
I have tried bearing auto greasers of all kind.
I prefer to hand pack, knowing that I know what I'm doing and get grease into every nook and cranny of the bearing.
Spin the wheel/hub when seating the bearings.
Then back off 1/4 turn and insert the cotter pin.
Thanks Mac. I guess I need to go in and replace one of races that had some pitting in it vs. the other side which is smooth. I tried briefly with a large screwdriver and was not successful. Rather than damage it and not be able to get it out I left it in. I did everything that was done in the video you posted.
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Could you have two different hubs that don’t have the same machined dimensions where you install the buddies? Or maybe the two buddies are not machined the same size. I believe they can be bought in two different sizes.
If the parts were made in China anything is possible.* But both are the same size 1 1/16th inch.
* My bother was a comptroller for a company that made machined parts for the automotive industry. Due to their competitor farming out some of their work to China, my brother's company was forced to do that to stay competitive. It didn't last. The quality sucked.
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I wasn't suggesting that incorrect bearing installation was why the cap wouldn't go on. I just meant that installing buddies should be a straight forward process. If you struggled with that, I could see a chance at incorrect bearing adjustment.
No worries. I agree it should be quite easy but...
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Reminder to self...self replace entire stratos hub vs just the bearings....
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Thanks Mac. I guess I need to go in and replace one of races that had some pitting in it vs. the other side which is smooth. I tried briefly with a large screwdriver and was not successful. Rather than damage it and not be able to get it out I left it in. I did everything that was done in the video you posted.
Turn the hub over and support it between 2 blocks of wood.
Get a BF hammer and a large drift pin or chisel and knock the outer race out from the opposite side.
It takes a bit.
One wack at 3 oclock.
One wack at 6 oclock
One wack at 9 oclock
and keep doing it till the race falls out.
And if you split the race with the cold chisel, so what!
It was junk to begin with.
Put the new one back in the same way but don't use a screwdriver or chisel.
Use a drift pin or something flat that won't damage the race.
Tap it...3 oclock......6 oclock.........9 oclock.......etc.
You will here it "ping" when the race gets seated fully into the hub.
The sound when you hit it with the hammer will change to a "ping" when it gets seated.
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Doesn't seem to be enough clearance to hold the Bearing Buddy in place with the outer seal.
Thanks!
The Youtube videos are great but they are all over the place with and without BB's so it's not clear.
Yeah I know it's probably a stupid question but that's me.
Sure thing, mate! You don't need the outer seal when using a Bearing Buddy, it's designed to replace it. If it doesn't fit snug, you might've got the wrong size - these buddies come in a range of diameters.
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Reminder to self...self replace entire stratos hub vs just the bearings....
Glad to be of help! :D
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delete
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Turn the hub over and support it between 2 blocks of wood.
Get a BF hammer and a large drift pin or chisel and knock the outer race out from the opposite side.
It takes a bit.
One wack at 3 oclock.
One wack at 6 oclock
One wack at 9 oclock
and keep doing it till the race falls out.
And if you split the race with the cold chisel, so what!
It was junk to begin with.
Put the new one back in the same way but don't use a screwdriver or chisel.
Use a drift pin or something flat that won't damage the race.
Tap it...3 oclock......6 oclock.........9 oclock.......etc.
You will here it "ping" when the race gets seated fully into the hub.
The sound when you hit it with the hammer will change to a "ping" when it gets seated.
Thanks Mac. I'll give it a shot as soon as I can find time again! I'm spending so much time with my elderly parents I feel like I might as well move in! ::)
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Thanks Mac. I'll give it a shot as soon as I can find time again! I'm spending so much time with my elderly parents I feel like I might as well move in! ::)
No problem bud!
I don't want to post what might be obvious but felt I should cover things for those who want to know.
Good luck partner!!!
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No problem bud!
I don't want to post what might be obvious but felt I should cover things for those who want to know.
Good luck partner!!!
No worries.
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Got er done. Even got the Bearing Buddy tapped in place on the one hub that was giving me issues. Man but what a bear getting one of the two races out on one of the hubs. And I still had trouble getting the zerk fitting disconnected after pumping in grease. And no, turning it has no effect. That's what I get for going cheap on the grease gun. ($20.00) I will be changing out the tip of this thing before I use it again!
But just a question: If the weep hole on the side is there to allow excess grease to come out if one overfills the grease, what good is it if the dust cover is over it? Maybe just to tell you initially if you have reached maximum capacity?
Thank you all of you that offered advice especially Mac!
(https://i.postimg.cc/7GfvCtdC/trailer-tire-5-23-23.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7GfvCtdC)
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Got er done. Even got the Bearing Buddy tapped in place on the one hub that was giving me issues. Man but what a bear getting one of the two races out on one of the hubs. And I still had trouble getting the zerk fitting disconnected after pumping in grease. And no, turning it has no effect. That's what I get for going cheap on the grease gun. ($20.00) I will be changing out the tip of this thing before I use it again!
But just a question: If the weep hole on the side is there to allow excess grease to come out of one overfills, what good is it if the dust cover is over it? Maybe just to tell you initially if you have reached maximum capacity?
Thank you all of you that offered advice especially Mac!
(https://i.postimg.cc/7GfvCtdC/trailer-tire-5-23-23.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7GfvCtdC)
the relief hole is just to let you know it's full. If it wasn't covered by the dust boot it would let water in when submerged, defeating the purpose of them
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the relief hole is just to let you know it's full. If it wasn't covered by the dust boot it would let water in when submerged, defeating the purpose of them
This!!!!
And thanks!
Happy Trailering.
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the relief hole is just to let you know it's full. If it wasn't covered by the dust boot it would let water in when submerged, defeating the purpose of them
Got it! Thanks!
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This!!!!
And thanks!
Happy Trailering.
Likewise!
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Decided to KISS (Keep it Simple Stupid) and just bring the seated kayak for vacation fishing. It's has a fish finder, comfortable seat, anchors and downrigger if I want to use it. And most of the waters I like to fish are small and usually quiet which is my preference. The big water one I can rent a boat economically.
So today I decided to check the bearings in the small utility trailer I put the kayak on. Used it a few years ago all the way from Indiana to Maine and back with no issues.
Bearings are fine so I just cleaned and repacked with grease. I was expecting to find a washer behind the castle nut but there were none. Is that common on utility trailers? I tried to install one but then I didn't have enough clearance for the hole to put the cotter pin in.
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The washer (and in this case the castle nut) snug up to the inner race of the bearing. The inner race is stationary on the axle shaft. Because of this, you really don’t need the washer.
The washer allows a little more flex when seating and adjusting the bearing is all.
Hope this helps.
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The washer (and in this case the castle nut) snug up to the inner race of the bearing. The inner race is stationary on the axle shaft. Because of this, you really don’t need the washer.
The washer allows a little more flex when seating and adjusting the bearing is all.
Hope this helps.
Thanks Mac. Makes sense. The only other thing that worries me a little is even backing off the castle nut, the wheels, although they still spin, and they turn smoothly with no noise, seem a little stiff compared to before I took everything apart. I used the same bearings and the rear grease seal isn't too small, so that shouldn't be the issue. Maybe it's just from new grease? Probably not using Bear Buddies on this one.
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Thanks Mac. Makes sense. The only other thing that worries me a little is even backing off the castle nut, the wheels, although they still spin, and they turn smoothly with no noise, seem a little stiff compared to before I took everything apart. I used the same bearings and the rear grease seal isn't too small, so that shouldn't be the issue. Maybe it's just from new grease? Probably not using Bear Buddies on this one.
Before you took things apart, the bearings were loose, and the grease was old.
There was less grease in the actual bearing, and it was thinner (less viscous) from its age.
So yes, the wheel would spin slightly easier before the repacking.
Spin the wheel when tightening the castle nut after repacking to properly "set" the bearings.
Then spin the wheel assembly good. Do it a few times.
Then try and tighten the castle nut more.
Spin things again.
Should be spinning free now, but with a little resistance as you noticed.
Then back the castle nut off until you can get your cotter pin in.
Spin the wheel assembly as it will get smoother to spin, but you don't want any looseness in the bearing if you took the bottom and top of the wheel assy and tried to rock things up and down.
BTW, you should never have to back off more than 1/8 turn.
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Thanks Mac!
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I forgot something else.
Sorry.
Always replace the seals.
They are dirt cheap.
They get old and stiff and then don't seal as well.
You are not in danger of grease oozing out as much as water and dirt oozing in.
Big time important on a boat trailer.
And also, any trailer pulled in the winter, with slush, snow, salt, and crap being tossed around under there.
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Oh yeah definitely replaced the seals.
But they aren't cheap anymore. $24.99 for two.
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Oh yeah definitely replaced the seals.
But they aren't cheap anymore. $24.99 for two.
from where?!? I just bought some from local parts store for $5/each.
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yea, $25 for a pair of wheel bearing grease seals is nutz.
I would be looking for a new auto parts store for sure.
The part number is marked on them............if you can still read it.
Google the part number online. amazon, eBay, RockAuto, etc.
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yea, $25 for a pair of wheel bearing grease seals is nutz.
The part number is marked on them............if you can still read it.
Google the part number online. amazon, eBay, RockAuto, etc.
Locally an auto parts store and Tractor Supply are all charging that much. Next time I do this I will probably use Amazon.
I rotated one of the wheels and got 2 3/4 rotations with a push. Then it was five. The more I rotated the tired the faster they rotated. I'm think I'm good. Grease probably needed to smooth out.