Setting up the boat to troll...

[boondox]

I don't think I'll be able to use that kind of steering connector. My kicker needs to go on the starboard side of my main due to the swim platform, and the steering linkage is on the far port side. It looks like I'll have to use the e z steer connector which is much more expensive. I'm wondering if it's just worth it to get the electro steere now since I don't think I can use the cheaper steering linkage. I still haven't ruled out coming up with my own Mickey Mouse type idea though!

I did run the motor for a little bit tonight and I must say it is shaky. It was hard to get the steering tension shaft wingnut tight enough so that it wouldn't turn on its own. It also didn't seem to idle down too well. It's going to need some adjustment, maybe some seafoam I don't know. Not sure what the spec is for the lowest rpms it's it's able to idle, but it kept stalling when I idled down low. Was hard to maintain a low idle speed without it wandering. I'll spend some time with it tomorrow and see how it comes.

Less aggressive prop??

[boondox]

I would suggest making your own steering linkage if you can??  400 for the electro steer just is not worth it to me for some reason?? Also could put in a stick steer cable steer system ?? Reason I say it it's hard to run around like a chicken with its head cut off with a full load of passanger front to back front to back .. that's were the stick steer or some kind of linkage would help .. by the way I suggest trying to change the prop to a less aggressive thrust prop then get a troll plate backing off a screw don't help. Also could try mini drift socks like minkotas or some thing small but better to troll with the thrust you got now  on the kicker..  then to idle down and foul engine!!

[Jethro]

I would suggest making your own steering linkage if you can??

Indeed, I am on it today. I'll have to look into props, but the key is how slow it will troll with this little 6. Also curious about cutting down a prop as mentioned above. Never knew you could do that. I am going to the boat store today, they oughta be really happy with me. Last year they had to deal with a bunch of parts on a dumb Crestliner that I bought. I'm going to see if they can get me side and rear curtains for the fisherman top that I have for the boat. They'll be getting some money from me this season for sure.

Switching gears a little bit, what do people think about these track systems that you can buy for mounting all your goodies? I'm somewhat of the impression that I know where things need to go for permanent mounting. And let's not forget this boat is a 2003, it's not exactly a beauty queen, but it's pretty freakin sweet. Would you guys just drill into the gunwales with your downriggers and rod holders? Or would you buy the track and mount stuff to that, which seems really expensive but much better aesthetically. I don't know what to do, it seems like 36 inches of that stuff on each side of the boat is going to cost me hundreds per side.

[Bowmandan]

Just drill and be happy about it

[Mac Attack]

I don't think I'll be able to use that kind of steering connector. My kicker needs to go on the starboard side of my main due to the swim platform, and the steering linkage is on the far port side. It looks like I'll have to use the e z steer connector which is much more expensive. I'm wondering if it's just worth it to get the electro steere now since I don't think I can use the cheaper steering linkage. I still haven't ruled out coming up with my own Mickey Mouse type idea though!

I did run the motor for a little bit tonight and I must say it is shaky. It was hard to get the steering tension shaft wingnut tight enough so that it wouldn't turn on its own. It also didn't seem to idle down too well. It's going to need some adjustment, maybe some seafoam I don't know. Not sure what the spec is for the lowest rpms it's it's able to idle, but it kept stalling when I idled down low. Was hard to maintain a low idle speed without it wandering. I'll spend some time with it tomorrow and see how it comes.

The rod Boon sent you the link to will work.

I have the rod and it works.
But I never use it.
I tightened the steering tension so it stays straight.
And use the ipilot on the Terova to steer.

[Jethro]

My steering tension doesnt seem to stay tight enough. I used vice grips but then I got scared I was going to break something. The motor still shook to the left at low idle.

The bar that Boon linked seems to say its 24 in Long. It's well over that from my steering bracket bolt to the kicker handle. I dont see how it would work but im going to the boat shop today and will ask them. I know for sure I don't want to move that swim platform / ladder.

I'm glad boon said drill away, I'm a little nervous to, but I think that's the way I'm going to go. Got to be kidding me with some of the prices of that track stuff from Big John or wherever. I'm not doing that.

[Mac Attack]

Move the kicker closer - the 24" bar will work.

After drilling holes in your transom, be sure to seal the wood inside.
Get some decent epoxy and use a small paintbrush to get it in there and coat the ID of the hole.
Then also use a good marine silicone sealer on the bolts and flat washers.
Use LARGE flat washers to distribute the weight.
It's a small motor, but still no reason not to do the job correctly.


BTW, somebody on here warned you it would shake.

 

If you want to lock it straight forward use a bungee cord.
2 stainless steel eyebolts into the flooring below and to each side of the tiller.
Again, seal your holes and use silicine.
Then hook the bungee to one eyebolt and wrap it arounf the tiller twice and the attach the other hook to the other eyebolt.

[Mac Attack]

[Jethro]

BTW, somebody on here warned you it would shake.

Don't worry Mac! You can say I told you so, I'm a big boy I can take it! LOLOL


Oh that makes a lot more sense. I thought that the linkage needed to go to the first bolt on the hydraulic cable or.. whatever you want to call it. Gonna order that bar, it's cheap. Need to order some rod holder bases so I don't have to take them off of my little boat, and good to go.

I can't wait to do some fishing!

[Mac Attack]

You're doing a great job Geoff.

I love working on my boat.

As a matter of fact, it's time to head out to the garage.
That TrollMaster won't install itself.
BTW, mine is insulated and heated.
I'm in shorts and a T right now.
It's 45 outside, but 72 in the garage.

Later!

 

[Jethro]

You're doing a great job Geoff.

I love working on my boat.

As a matter of fact, it's time to head out to the garage.
That TrollMaster won't install itself.
BTW, mine is insulated and heated.
I'm in shorts and a T right now.
It's 45 outside, but 72 in the garage.


Later!

 

Well, I was in a t-shirt all day, it was so nice outside! Wish I had a garage.

I went to the Big Chain fishing store, I'm sure you know the one I'm talkin of, and found Tite Loc rod holders. They seemed pretty high-quality, very adjustable, and not super duper expensive, so I bought two of them and two extra mounts. Anybody have any real-world opinions of these things?

http://www.titelok.com/product-p/rh-5710.htm

If they work out I will probably buy two more of them, then with my downriggers I'll have a total of 6 rod holders on the boat to start with, and 8 places that I could put them. Trying to figure out the locations is proving difficult though!

[boondox]

I would price making my own versus buying a piece of threaded rod some turn buckles same size as threaded rod and some as eye bolts same size as thread rod and make a tie rod out of those ..   use some jam nuts and a way to mount from kicker via a bolt hole..either by mounting plate or a driled hole ..   to the main motor via a bolt hole.. then use a bolt threw the eye bolt and some washes that make a pivot point ..form the eye bolt ..   I would use nylon  washers if you can find then and some nylock nut and nylock jam nuts .. any how I dI'd not say drill away it was some else.. but they are correct.. fir the gunnel tops me I have a hard time drilling transom for a finder mount what I did is got some sem brand pannel bound and a piece of abs, poly carbonate ,etc...drilled and counter sunk bolt heads then glued the abs to the boat with sem pannel bond so the threads bolts stuck out for the fish finder transduecer to mount to.. low holes in a hurl can cause problems if not sealed right.. any how put as many high up holes as you want as long as above the  waterline.. I think amish outfitter had a track system too along with Bretts and tex Trax systems  nor sure if tite-loc rod holder brand make tracks too ?? So do some googleing.. any how boat looks good now carefull how holes you drill don't want to wreck it .. also what about a propane tank holder and a heater?? A lot of winter boaters like jet boat have that set up for fishing rivers for steel head.. maybe even a heater mount?? If your going to do the canvas might be worth going with a therMal canvas with a blanket batting layer sewen inSide of the canvas..  don't under estimate the fall bite and the early spring like right now! People even dodge ice floats around here to catch fish.

[Mac Attack]

My buddy Paul has Titelocs
They work fine.
I’m not a fan of the Allen screw mount arrangement, but as I said, they work.  And they are affordable like you mentioned.

[Jethro]

..  don't under estimate the fall bite and the early spring like right now! People even dodge ice floats around here to catch fish.

Oh I am all about trying to get some early and late season fishing! That's the whole reason I have this boat. I've been fishing in Maine every ice out in my little 14 foot side console, jealous of the guys that have walkthrough windshild hulls with full enclosures they can stand in and stay bone dry. They pop out of the curtains to make an adjustment or catch a fish then duck back under cover. A few years ago it rained almost the entire week, high temperatures in the 40s, and I'm fishing in rain gear in an open boat. I mean I had a Bimini top, but still it's not like staying dry in a full enclosure. Now I'll be the guy that others are jealous of!

I have a portable Buddy Heater that I use ice fishing, but I think it has a tip over sensor that will get affected on the water. I have a nice small 11lb bulk tank that I use which will be perfect on the boat. I also have a really sweet Weber gas grill I'll use on the boat. What's a safe cabin heater for on the water use? Hopefully not something too expensive.

I am definitely going to try and rig my own kicker linkage. I have a nifty idea, I'll post pics if it comes out ok and works.

[boondox]

Mr heater cooker blinder heater I will get a link for one for you to look at..  I know menards around here has them cheap and with the 11%rebate they give every now and then helps sweeten the deal.. the reason for the heater cooker is it don't tip over saftey but always be carefull that why I monted it to the boat and ran a hose to the tank also keep in mind there is no ods on them either ods is oxygen depletion sensor . They put out a good 15000 btus and should keep you plenty warm I would use a hose my self to that propane tank and a filter.. with out the filter it won't run..