'64 Evinrude 9.5

[FISHFORPIKE]

I have a 1964 Evinrude Sportwin 9.5   -   Mdl. - 9422R
I just acquired, along with an Alumacraft 12' boat and trailer.  It's been sitting unused for years.  The gas that was in the tank (came with it) was pretty bad - gelled in the bottom of the tank!
I cleaned things up, mixed some fresh fuel and changed the plugs.
Started and ran right off - problem is that it "sputters" at low RPM and "hiccups" occasionally at higher speeds.  If I apply some choke it smoothes out.  Any ideas?  Do I need to get the carb cleaned?  There is a knob for mixture on the front but it does not seem to do anything when adjusted (only goes about a full turn full left to right (lean to rich).  The motor and boat look nearly new, even though they are 45 years old.  Should I just give up on this engine?  Is it worth the bother?  This rig is small enough to use at some local "hand-launch" access sites into some more remote smaller lakes.  I'd think I'd really enjoy using it if I can get it fixed up.

[Gambler]

Well before I would give up on the motor I would buy some Sea Foam cleaner and run through it. If that did not help I would take the carb off and clean out all passages real well. If I still did not have it running smooth I would sell it. But my thoughts are it will run fine with the Sea foam treatment or carb cleaning and rebuild.

[Skipper]

Dont give up! Just get the carb serviced, it may need a fuel pump kit too.

[Jimmy]

Yeah- I agree...  There's not a whole lot to those old OMC's except for air, fuel and spark!

You've got spark (obviously) so it's either timing or the carburator!!!

If you can find a carb rebuild kit and clean it all out nicely, I bet she'll do great! 

[mud_n_fun]

One thing with these older motors is the mixer ratio the said for those days. Buy a synthetic oil and mix it 50-1. My 1961  75hp says 30-1 with 30w oil. Don't need to do that with todays oils. lean it out. 50-1 is more than enough. the oil make the plug foul or sputter. 

As far a tech tips. Spray carb cleaner in the carb in sport bursts while running about 80% open. don't kill the motor but put enough in there to let it do its job.

Don't sell it. once you get it running right you'll love it.

Unless you can afford a new motor.

[FISHFORPIKE]

I have a 1964 Evinrude Sportwin 9.5   -   Mdl. - 9422R

Does anyone have a service manual for this motor that would look up or otherwise know what the # of turns out on the mixture adjustment should be to start with.
Also, what the carb float level setting should be?
I guess I should find a service manual to buy for this thing.
I removed the carb today and cleaned it up - should have the rebuild kit next week along with a fuel pump rebuild kit.  Didn't really see where there is a problem with the carb (it was pretty clean looking).

[mud_n_fun]

is the point in good shape and the gap set correctly?

[billditrite]

another thing to look at is the coils...there should be 2 of them under he fly wheel. I bought a 1963 10hp evinrude for  40 bux...the guy said it runs but it doesnt run smooth. i took it home and popped the flywheel off and both coils were old and cracked...bought 2 new ones at 22 bux each and it ran smooth as snot ever since.

[FISHFORPIKE]

Thanks bllditrite and mud_n_fun - I got it in the garage tonite - I'll pop the flywheel in the morning.  Looks more and more like I'll have to order a service manual.

[Skipper]

Thanks bllditrite and mud_n_fun - I got it in the garage tonite - I'll pop the flywheel in the morning.  Looks more and more like I'll have to order a service manual.

Try these guys. Best prices I can find, fast to ship, and good service. I buy a manual every time I buy a new vehicle or toy.

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/

[geothefisher]

Before you go ripping things apart, try tightening the nuts that the needle valves go through.  They have a small seal inside and if the seal is even mildley bad they leak air and can make the engine do some goofy things.  Hold the needle still while tightening so you don't lose your setting.  Like I said, there will be 2 different needle valves.  One will be for high speed, and the other is the low speed needle.  Tighten down both and try out the engine.  If it runs even a little better, you know that those little seals are bad.  They are a cheap and easy fix if it is them, usually less than $1 each.  The dealer will tell you that you only need 2, but tell him you want 4 and double them up, you get a much better seal, and you can tighten them down many times over the years when they start to leak.  I have only had to put in one set in the last ten years on my 57 18hp Evinrude.  I have tightened down the packing nuts (just snugged them up a little) probably at least once every season.  If you have any questions, PM me.  I have been working on old OMC products for close to 30 years, and do everything from tune ups and carb rebuilding, to complete engine rebuilds and restorations of vintage and antique outboards.  Almost exclusively Evinrude and Johnson, but have done some Mercs, Wizards, Eska, Clinton, Chrysler, whatever.  If it still had points and condensers, and a carb, I can usually fix it.  If it needs to be plugged into a machine for someone to know whats wrong with it, I'm not interested.

[Nor Easter]

Looks more and more like I'll have to order a service manual.
Yes you will. Especially after you hear what I have to say. I was a marine mech back in the day. I know those old low-boy Johnsons inside out, upside down.

What you are describing is the notorious problem of theirs with the seal of the exhaust housing. If it leaks at all, you will never be able to adjust your low speed needle to get a nice troll without sputtering and coughing (hiccup).

They are a PIA to work on but run r-e-a-l nice when they are right. You will need a complete gasket set if they are available anymore or you will need to make some that will work.

First thing is to look at it and decide if it is in nice enough shape to determine if you want to sink the time and money into it. If I could see it and look it over slightly I could tell 'ya, but then I'd have to kill 'ya...

If your motor is relatively clean and the paint looks good, not tinted brown near the heads, peeling near the exhaust ports like a saltwater sleeper, then it may be worth rebuilding. If compression and overall shape is nice, you could get another 10 years out of it no prob. Even back then, they used stainless driveshafts unlike Mercs and most others. OMC (Gale Buccaneer, Johnson, Evinrude and one other I don't recall due to CRS syndrome) used stainless shafts back as far as the mid fifties if not further. Too bad they went belly up...

Post, or send me some pics if you can.