Will make sure that is not pressure treated wood as the chemicals in it will do horrible things to an aluminum boat. Marine grade plywood is what you want albeit expensive.
But I would tear out that floatation if it's water logged.
not true anymore.the copper is out of the pressure treated these days.But I would tear out that floatation if it's water logged.Good luck.
As soon as I saw that pic of the floor being pulled up, was like major deja vu for me. I been there before. That wood you have cut for the floor will work out just fine for you. A user of the site from Maine had a good idea, seal the edges like you did, then a couple coats of exterior paint with skidtex mixed in the last coat. Seemed easier on labor and materials, and an easy wash down, while being gentle on the wallet. I used large head aluminum rivits to secure the wood to the aluminum cross beams, just because it seemed every screw in the boat backed out over time if it wasn't siliconed in. I'm surprised there was no mouse colonies under the old deck too, they're wire eaters.
Will if you go the self tapping screw route use a drop of liquid nails where you are putting the screw and screw through it. It will coat the screw and when it dries it will bond to the wood and prevent it from backing out.
The rivets that were in there were 1/4x3/4" and i cant find them anywhere local. I thought about using self tapping screws too, but was worried about them backing out =/I heard about the outdoor paint and skidex route but the outdoor carpeting i got is mold/mildew resistant as well, and only cost $34 to do the whole boat. Ill use the old carpet as a template.