Same here, since it came out. I love it too. Could it be better? Yeah.Breakage that I've had has been shock on the knots on the hook set. The way to solve the problem is to go up in pound test (use the same diameter that you used to use before Nanofil, forget the package break strength because it's not going to help you). The idea that you can get the same strength from line that is 1/10th as thin as what you used to use just doesn't add up, no matter how it is packaged. For example, I used to use 8 pound fluorocarbon. Rather than use 8 pound Nanofil, I use 12 or 14 which is just about the same diameter as the 8 lb. fluoro. It still casts further than the fluoro, and also braid of the same diameter. I fish both tidal and non-tidal waters. I don't use a leader and tie my lures right to it. The fish don't seem to be line shy. The things that I've learned about it are that it floats, so use more weight than you used to (fluoro sinks, so for me it was a must). Retie often, as you would any line, especially if you fish abrasive cover. When your spool gets low and the line frays too much for your liking, add backing to another spool, and transfer the used line to the backing and you have a new spool of line. Fish of the pike family bite through it like butter, so use fluoro or steel leaders for them, or tieable wire leaders. By the way, I've only had one fish break me off, and it was probably a huge striper or black drum, I never saw it, and it would have broken 8 lb. fluorocarbon too, no doubt in my mind. Nanofil tends to "float" on a cast during windy days, so use more weight to get it down, but since there is no stretch, you will still feel bites.Now, I'm not glued to any brands, no sponsors or crap like that. I go with what works for me. I heard Gliss was good but may have some of the same problems. Some say it's better. I haven't found any yet, but when I do, I'll give it a shot. If it's better, then I'll use it. By the way, I only use it on spinning tackle. I've heard from others that it digs in on baitcasters and I don't need that problem. I use 50-80 lb. Suffix 832 for my baitcasters and it digs in more than my liking, but not too bad, and I love the performance of it too. I also like PowerPro for those same reasons and situations.Comparing Nanofil to braid, braid is stronger, but thin braid is subject to the same problems with breakage (shock on knots). Thin braid gave me fits with what I thought were wind knots, especially while working soft plastic flukes or Senkos. Nanofil does not cause that problem for me.This is my honest assessment. It is my opinion based on use, and I've tried just about every line out there other than Gliss (or at least type of line). It's not that I don't like those lines, it's just that I find the advantages that Nanofil has to offer outweigh the disadvantages.I can't stress enough to not go by the poundage, and use heavier poundage than you used to, go by diameter instead. That is what I'm going to do with Gliss when I try it (probably the 24 pound diameter). I'll post back after I gain some experience with it.
...at the end of the day some of this stuff is just personal preference. We can split hairs about how one is better than the other but better is really just in the eye of the beholder isn't it?
I agreeI've always gone by the mono diameter equivalent of what the gear is rated for. Isn't that what your suppose to do with superlines? The strength of the line isn't the issue, it's how thin and slippery it is, so any abraisions or slippage will make the system fail. The material or manufacturing of this line may be new or different, but basically you would use it as you would braid only it'll be stronger at the same diameter. So as with fireline and braid, checking the line often for frays and using the correct knots is vital. Just like with other no stretch lines, there needs to be something to absorb the shock of the hooksets and struggling fished, so a ultralight/light rod with good flex (longer rods help too) is needed for the finer lines.
