2 stroke outboard thread

[porkpiehat]

The Lund I bought this summer has a 99 Suzuki 40. I remember thinking when I bought it how much quieter it was than my 98 Johnson 35, 3cyl 2 stroke. Last two times I was out all I could think was "I don't remember the engine being this noisy." Wondering if the sheen is wearing off and I'm starting to nit pick. I asked my autistic nephew, who is very noise sensitive and has a keen mind for weird details, and he said it was louder.

Seems to run the same except its a little rough at lower RPM after trolling and restarting. I don't want to be the neurotic boat owner/easy prey for my mechanic. Would there be a mechanical reason for this or way to test?

[Mac Attack]

Put new plugs in it, properly gapped of course.
Then fill the tank and add some fuel injector cleaner.
Then go for a boat ride.
No fishing.
No stopping.
Vary the RPM often and keep it up on plane.
Sounds like the cylinders and valves might be a little loaded up with carbon.
Hopefully your little boat ride will burn out some of the junk.

Oh yea, take out some nachos and beverages and definitely some music.
Enjoy the day,

Good luck
Mac

[porkpiehat]

Thanks for the advice. Fuel injector cleaner is fine with a carb?

I need to buy the shop manual for the motor I don't know anything about it other than it likes high octane gas.

Nachos seem complicated for a boat ride. Pringles and Swiss rolls for me (same on the ice, sub the beer for bourbon)

[Mac Attack]

Thanks for the advice. Fuel injector cleaner is fine with a carb?

I need to buy the shop manual for the motor I don't know anything about it other than it likes high octane gas.

Nachos seem complicated for a boat ride. Pringles and Swiss rolls for me (same on the ice, sub the beer for bourbon)

Fuel injector cleaner is almost same as carburetor cleaner.
Just want a solvent inside to help break down and dissolve any carbon deposits in the heads, valves, pistons, and rings.
Run it double strength for a tankful.

Good luck
Mac

[lowaccord66]

I think I still have a issue with air in the lines myself.  I am suffering from hard starting when I first launch.  Once warm starts and operation seems ok but coming off plane it breaks up and stalls.  Can be very hard to start afterwards.  Ive replaced the fuel line and primer.  I suspect I need to reblock the oil feed line on the vro because the pervious owner didnt do the best job amd I suspect its sucking in some air.  Primer bulb is getting a bit softer than normal during operation.  Also the idle is sometimes normal othertimes elevated by roughly 500 rpms.  Carbs were rebuilt this season.  New water seperator and all new lines.  Pickup in tank was claimed to be inspected.  This is a 1990 140 looper.  Occasionally it seems hard to actually prime...the bulb fills and gets stiff but getting fuel into the carbs seems difficult when warm.  Although rare I read the loopers can suffer from vapor lock if hot.

[boondox]

Thanks for the advice. Fuel injector cleaner is fine with a carb?

I need to buy the shop manual for the motor I don't know anything about it other than it likes high octane gas.

Nachos seem complicated for a boat ride. Pringles and Swiss rolls for me (same on the ice, sub the beer for bourbon)

@porkpiehat.
Try ebay at their half.com for the repair manual and Barns and noble and amazon learned about used books in college lol's




Side note cause its a 2 stroke thread.. 
Just picked up a panther jack mount for up to a 20 hp kicker 2 stroke only for 57.25 tax included any way there reg price was $180 and 70% off saved me some dough.. lol's there is another one in stock thinking of heading back to pick it up these are good for kicker motors like the 2.5 hp2 stroke  kicker I got now.. any ways 54 +TX is worth it when they cost around 180 to 230 for the kicker mount.. I could make my money back easily lols.. now I need a steering linkage from the main yo kicker so I don't have to run back  to steer when trolling..

[boondox]

I think I still have a issue with air in the lines myself.  I am suffering from hard starting when I first launch.  Once warm starts and operation seems ok but coming off plane it breaks up and stalls.  Can be very hard to start afterwards.  Ive replaced the fuel line and primer.  I suspect I need to reblock the oil feed line on the vro because the pervious owner didnt do the best job amd I suspect its sucking in some air.  Primer bulb is getting a bit softer than normal during operation.  Also the idle is sometimes normal othertimes elevated by roughly 500 rpms.  Carbs were rebuilt this season.  New water seperator and all new lines.  Pickup in tank was claimed to be inspected.  This is a 1990 140 looper.  Occasionally it seems hard to actually prime...the bulb fills and gets stiff but getting fuel into the carbs seems difficult when warm.  Although rare I read the loopers can suffer from vapor lock if hot.

Could be vaporizing fuel if engine running hot like t-Stat needs replacing again is it still peeing water when running? If not the impeller is installed incorrect??  See if you can locate a repair manual they give problem solving charts like high idle could be a crab gasket leak etc etc.. or even a bad head gasket or valve ?? Like not sealing but best to get manual and see what is first and cheapest to diagnose problems like a leak down test valves or even a compression test.. but you need manual for exact specs for the psi it should be since I don't got your manual or motor I could not tell you what they are..

[lowaccord66]

The factory plastic clamp on the inlet hose for oil into the VRO was leaking.  I fixed it and was operational for a brief time before the startwr solenoid bit it.  She spins but wont raise to engage the flywheel thankfully a replacement was 60 bones.  Should help with the starts.  From what I understand its important to spin those pretty quick to get them to fire.  

Thanks for the response boondox.  I had the tsat replaced and there is a solid stream through of water.

[boondox]

The factory plastic clamp on the inlet hose for oil into the VRO was leaking.  I fixed it and was operational for a brief time before the startwr solenoid bit it.  She spins but wont raise to engage the flywheel thankfully a replacement was 60 bones.  Should help with the starts.  From what I understand its important to spin those pretty quick to get them to fire.  

Thanks for the response boondox.  I had the tsat replaced and there is a solid stream through of water.

Then it should be fine and not over heating like you were thinking earlier..  I would find the specks on motor and find out if the carbs are loose to the head like it's suckin air past the gasket for the carbs since you had a fresh rebuild.. also I would do a compression test to make sure the heads not leaking or a leak down test to make sure the valces are not leaking.  Like a cracked reed valve that's what I would suspect since you had carbs rebuilt I would make sure to retoqure the carb to head bolts if a air leak ocurs it would me most likely there... cause it was just fixed also what type of gaskets were used in rebuild were they o-rings? That got reused? or paper that got double stacked ? Or even a plastic card that got reused  and compressed like o-rings do? Cause you know your leaking air that's why you got high rpms it maybe not before carb it maybe after.. so just stuff to look into if continplating to do the compression test buy a leak down tester cause it is cheaper then buying a compression tester then a leak down tester.. leak down will do compression tests.  Any how is the air in take box securely attached to the carb like a hose clamp that's loose maybe leaking air in ?? Look at all aspects..

[boondox]

For leak down testers I get 30% off here at link below  on orders over $75.00  you got to search for cupon codes threw google then add it to the cart I think you just got to sign up for a account to get the 30%off .. it not group on..  it is " retail me not " coupon code threw retail me not..


Any how see link for leak down tester..


https://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/proform-leakdown-tester-66839/10289794-P?searchTerm=Leakdown+tester

[boondox]

By the way you can use carb cleaner to find vaccum leaks you spray surfaces like the gasket surface hoses etc .. if the idel drop like normal it is that spot if it stays high move on try to pin point the area...  the spray from a can of carb cleaner will help pin point the area..  the fluid in carb cleaner is combustible like gas but is not harm full like water and the fluid plugs small air gaps..  just a suggestion to try to spray see if the idel drop as you soak spray it when you quit spraying the idel raises back up just a suggestion to try see if you can pin point the spot..

[lowaccord66]

Thanks man.  I need to grab a new starter!  All the testing has made the origional unit shot...  Im shoping for a yamaha 90.  The looper has been good to be but with the amount of time I spend fishing I have no business with carbs!

[boondox]

Thanks man.  I need to grab a new starter!  All the testing has made the origional unit shot...  Im shoping for a yamaha 90.  The looper has been good to be but with the amount of time I spend fishing I have no business with carbs!

Is the new starter from new cause of hard starting from old starter ? Like takes lots of cranking to start it??I would  have the head gasket checked if that's the case. Low compression causes hard starting and low compression can cause high idel from a air leak threw head gasket.. hopefully you get that yami  90 hp if any thing..

[lowaccord66]

Is the new starter from new cause of hard starting from old starter ? Like takes lots of cranking to start it??I would  have the head gasket checked if that's the case. Low compression causes hard starting and low compression can cause high idel from a air leak threw head gasket.. hopefully you get that yami  90 hp if any thing..

I have my eyes open for the 90 or preferably the 115.  Might be the headgaskets.  Got it running yesterday ran great on plane, died coming off plane then hard to start.

[boondox]

Check your pm box lol's..  is that what your looking for??