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Author Topic: 7 weight build  (Read 628 times)

gundogwanted

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7 weight build
« on: Feb 01, 2018, 12:14 PM »
I'm building a 9 foot, 7 weight for my son and would like just some input on one question. Most say it's preference. Stripper and mending guide, do you like a 16 and 12, or a 12 and 10? Also, would you consider this a medium or heavy weight rod? 
Equal Billing: Crankbait degrees; Typically, the narrower the bill, the tighter the wiggle; the wider the bill, the wider the wobble.

rgfixit

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Re: 7 weight build
« Reply #1 on: Feb 01, 2018, 03:39 PM »
It's kind of a medium heavy weight by description. To me a medium weight is more akin to my 10' 6 wt.

What's the target fish and what kind of waters are you intending to fish?

I've built a lot of fly rods. I prefer larger strip/mend guides for rods over 5 wt. on certain types of blanks. Personally I prefer IM6 blanks for most of my fly rods. Much more forgiving and a bit slower that some of the super high modulus graphite blanks. But then, I'm an old guy who likes things a bit slower ;D

And just because  the blank is sent as a 7 wt, doesn't really determine the best line for it. You might find a 6 or 8 wt line casts better in a given situation. For me it takes some trial and error and a trip through the line collection to find e sweet spot on a new build.

Rg
"Lemmings must be directed to the sea......"
Frank Burns

boondox

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Re: 7 weight build
« Reply #2 on: Feb 01, 2018, 05:41 PM »
You should only need a #12 and a #10 guide as the stripper guide.. now is this a two a 3 or 4 piece?  Also what kind if guides do you plan to use? Like snake or single foot guides?? I prefer snake guided but some want that lite feeling rod.. see most of the biggest snake guides start around a 8 mm..  so that means as you step down in size as you go towards the rod tip.. you start out with a big guide and taper to a smaller guide at tip..   I got a good spacing chart that almost works off the batt if you would like it??for s 9 foot fly rod.. any how should not need a size 16 cause of weight and a 12 mm  is to big to step down to a 8 mm snake guide wich is  to big of a step down and will be noticeable ..some sites list aprox millimeter sizes of guides as in mm  for the guide... 


you should only need a 12 to 10 stripper guides.. to a 6 then 5 snake guide then to a 4 then 3 then should end off on 2 or 3 I got charts I am not looking at is why not sure off hand...   not talking a 2/0 what I am talking about #2 or a 5.7 mm guide as the smallest used on a 7 wt..  not sure would have to look .. the chart has qty/size of how many used etc.. so let me know if you want it?? Once I put on the guides with thread ..  I adjust by threading a string like a knitting size string threw all guides and pulling tight..   this will let you see flat spots from one guide to another..and  you will have to rewrap several times and shift spacing.. cause,of flat spots under load..you can use fine line tape bit can't pull hard enough some times on the tape..  the flat spots are  were you will want to add guides.. 

By thr way some rods have three stripper guides on bigger rods like 12wt 16 -12-10 mm guides.. but that's a heavier weight rod all together..

 Sizes are aprox this was taken from another Web site..

1/0: 4.8 mm 2/0: 4.5mm 1: 5.1 mm 2: 5.7mm 3: 6.3mm 4: 7.0mm 5: 7.7mm 6: 8.5mm 



gundogwanted

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Re: 7 weight build
« Reply #3 on: Feb 01, 2018, 06:15 PM »
Both comments are great. Thanks. I took him to the fly fishing show in Jersey last week and after he disappeared for three hours, I found him with a sack of goodies. In it was a four piece blank from shu-fly. Don't know much about them, so I don't have much of a choice now. The last rods I built were back in the mid to late 80's. Mostly all Fenwick fiberglass from Dale Clemens. Didn't live far from there at the time. Still use them, still love them. So these newer graphite four piecers are a little more advanced for me. I do however like my sage DS2 graphite II 8 weight I got in the bargain cave at Cabela's many years ago. We fish the Susky in PA now for the smallmouth and he will sometimes hit the farm ponds as well. That's why when I asked about light/medium weight, I looked at the strip guides on the sage and it has 16/12 and St Croix pdf file list 12/10's. This won't be an expensive build until we get it right, then move on to something better.
Equal Billing: Crankbait degrees; Typically, the narrower the bill, the tighter the wiggle; the wider the bill, the wider the wobble.

rgfixit

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Re: 7 weight build
« Reply #4 on: Feb 03, 2018, 10:46 AM »
Check out the info available here.
http://merricktackle.com/tips/guidesfromcatalog.pdf

I've used Merrick a lot. Good company to deal with.

Rg
"Lemmings must be directed to the sea......"
Frank Burns

gundogwanted

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Re: 7 weight build
« Reply #5 on: Feb 05, 2018, 01:20 PM »
I did check out that link. Nice info there. It's now called Mudhole. Going to use black snakes on it. Would like the Ti's, but not at three bucks apiece. Used to dry the wraps by hand back then, maybe thinking of a dryer motor.  :-\
Equal Billing: Crankbait degrees; Typically, the narrower the bill, the tighter the wiggle; the wider the bill, the wider the wobble.

rgfixit

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Re: 7 weight build
« Reply #6 on: Feb 05, 2018, 04:07 PM »
Buy your parts from Acid Rod or Jann's then. Don't deal with Mudhole. They're the absolute worst. 30%+ shipping costs.

Rg
"Lemmings must be directed to the sea......"
Frank Burns

boondox

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Re: 7 weight build
« Reply #7 on: Feb 05, 2018, 08:23 PM »
Get a BBQ rotisory motor there stronger ..  stronger then the cheap motors they sell for same price as rod driers..  you can get one that will turn a spey or switch rod with no problems.. make a rubber band chuck from a pvc end cap.. ,some metal square stock , epoxy  and a couple j  hooks for hanging stuff from wood joist there's a wood screw on one end a hook on other.. slip butt  in to rubber bands butt first in to rubber bands..   so there tight enough to hold wile turning i do a wrap around my rod butt with the rubber band's  then hang it centered in chuck.. you can find BBQ motors on flea bay for around $5-$10 last I looked..

gundogwanted

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Re: 7 weight build
« Reply #8 on: Feb 06, 2018, 02:53 PM »
I like that acid rod website, good stuff there. But I think I'll go with Jann's for most of it. (one shipping cost). They have some other good stuff I'm interested in as well. As far as the rotisserie motor, I have a new one still wrapped from a grill 15 years ago. Never used it, just need a square piece to go into it now and make the end holder.
Equal Billing: Crankbait degrees; Typically, the narrower the bill, the tighter the wiggle; the wider the bill, the wider the wobble.

boondox

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Re: 7 weight build
« Reply #9 on: Feb 06, 2018, 04:37 PM »
I like that acid rod website, good stuff there. But I think I'll go with Jann's for most of it. (one shipping cost). They have some other good stuff I'm interested in as well. As far as the rotisserie motor, I have a new one still wrapped from a grill 15 years ago. Never used it, just need a square piece to go into it now and make the end holder.


1/4 inch key way stock is what I used .. I think you can find some on flea bay or tractor supply company etc.. will have it .. if you can build a bird house you can build a support for the motor and a vee up right or two  for the rod to support it..

rgfixit

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Re: 7 weight build
« Reply #10 on: Feb 06, 2018, 04:40 PM »
Lots of ways to,make a rod drier. The last time one I had was a Pac Bay. The adjustable jaws failed on one wrap. Allowing the butt section of a finished rod to drop and sit in one spot all afternoon. I ended up stripping that section and doing it over again.

The lesson learned is, use every means possible to make sure the very last step is exactly that. I opted for pipe clamps to secure the blanks in the drier.

Once you get into it deep, you'll want a climate controlled drying box.
Rg

"Lemmings must be directed to the sea......"
Frank Burns

gundogwanted

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Re: 7 weight build
« Reply #11 on: Feb 16, 2018, 07:46 AM »
So, I'm still getting together parts for my build. I got hooked up for a very good deal on snake guides for 5 bucks. Tich finish, a 12 and 10 stripper, (1 #3), (3 #2's) and (4 #1's). Also a hook keeper and #4 tip. Got the grip reamed out, fun job, and I'm using an ALPS seat. Waiting for the one inch cork butt.
Equal Billing: Crankbait degrees; Typically, the narrower the bill, the tighter the wiggle; the wider the bill, the wider the wobble.

boondox

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Re: 7 weight build
« Reply #12 on: Feb 16, 2018, 04:31 PM »
Do you happen to have a drill press or a wood turnin lathe ??   If you got a way to support a cordless drill to put a piece of threaded rod in it to spin it.. you can turn foam!! it is what I suggest that or cork but cork is so darn expensive now a days.. they sell chunks as in turning squares  2x2x18 inch chuncks at mudhole of foam.. get a color that matches the thread and buy some accent foam strips from Micheles craft and supplies or any similar store.. get some polyurethane glue gorilla or pro bond etc.. some clamps .. I use a miter box and the angle to add accents to my grips and fighting butts cut it ware you want it and wet with water bolth sides that take glue  then add glue to one side then clamp together ... press it tight enough not to have pockets of glue.. I have done ex pattern that come out to be figure 8s even tried checker board style cuts with a coping saw then reglue each piece then clamped with a hose clamp this was after turning it a tad..  foam is so easy to work with and less expensive then cork at 18 inch long you get to 7.5 inch long grips out of it and two 1.5 inch fighting butts.. for around $20 but got to have sand paper and a way to turn it to shape!!  or even rough file and fish sand etc.. so much out there this is just a suggestion but is very much worth doing.. this really adds to the rods value .. this is sll in the book advanced custom rod building by dale clemns this book is s must read and very suggested.. I think jannsnetcraft.Com carries it and do does ebay ,amazon, etc..any how  please take lots of pictures .. we enjoy pictures here ..

 



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