MyFishFinder Forum
MFF US Midwest => Indiana => Topic started by: Valparaiso_Girl on Mar 31, 2014, 09:18 PM
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Well, I learned a lot today. I wish I could write I caught a slew of fish, but I got skunked at Missy. My 6ft rod with 10lb test wasn't a good choice for crappies, neither was my slip bobber. I shoulda known better--lesson learned. Folk's showed me how to set up a double jig with a spring bobber. Then they felt sorry for me cause I wasn't catching any and tipped my hooks with minnows. It didn't help. I tried though. I fished the Red Bridge area. Crappies were being caught there, just not by me. :( At least I know what I need to do for next time I fish there. I also fished below the dam. I didn't see any fish caught there.
I got the flyrod out of the truck right before I left and nymphed the eddies. The water was so muddy, I didn't have much faith that the fish could see my hot pink/bead head nymph.
(https://www.myfishfinder.com/fishing_forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi229.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee7%2Fvalparaiso_girl%2FDSCN0270.jpg&hash=5d3a5c2a5f34723c8dd35d691ee005bc)
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That's a beautiful picture! Love that reservoir.
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well lets see this spring bobber setup! LOL No really! :D
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Well at least ya got out in this nice weather
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Sometimes the fishing is better than the catching.. ;) ;)
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That's a beautiful picture! Love that reservoir.
Thanks, I thought it was pretty too.
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well lets see this spring bobber setup! LOL No really! :D
I've already got that line all set up for catfish or I'd take a pic for ya. Not that I'll know what to do with one if I catch a catfish, but it's something I want to try. Anyways, the set up was just two jigs tied on the same line about a foot apart. Also, a lead weight was used to help cast a bit farther. The spring bobber was then clipped on 6 feet up-- the length of the pole. Casting an open spin with that much line out was a bit of a challenge for me. What's a girl to do when her fish is 7 feet under and tight lining will result in getting snagged on the rocks? Had it not been so windy and so many people, I would have got my flyrod out sooner. I still wonder how those crappies could see the jigs, and if they would be able to see a fly in that muddy water.
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Well at least ya got out in this nice weather
Yes, that was a fun day exploring the Missy anyways. It was my first time ever fishing there.
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Sometimes the fishing is better than the catching.. ;) ;)
As clever as that sounds, I still want to fish and catch. I don't mind releasing-- but I'm there to see what prize I can pull outta the water! :)
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Hey kiddo, Did you use a bobber that clips on by pulling back a spring and slipping your line in a notch?
If so, why didn't you use a slip bobber??? Like we use to crappie fish at night.
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Val, get ahold of Yooper(Nate), he lives there and fishes the Missy often.
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Hey kiddo, Did you use a bobber that clips on by pulling back a spring and slipping your line in a notch?
If so, why didn't you use a slip bobber??? Like we use to crappie fish at night.
Yes, that's the type of bobber I changed to. I had the slip bobber to begin with, but it wouldn't work right for me. I'm guessing between the wind and having it on ten pound test line, it couldn't slip very well, (yet it seemed to slide fine outta the water). Also, along with two jigs, I added a sinker and it it still would not slide the line down. No one really uses slip bobbers to fish from shore there. I spotted several Charlie Brown types. If I were to try it again this time of year, I think a straight drop down from a boat might do the trick best. Also, I'd be able to get on top of em, which I believe was one of my troubles, (the other being a more finesse set up).
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Val, get ahold of Yooper(Nate), he lives there and fishes the Missy often.
Thanks. The day at Missy was just a special outing for me since it's over an hour from the house. It's fun exploring new areas. I've recuperated from my kiddo's Spring Break (the little ones about drove me nuts). Also, my Spring Break ended Tuesday and I'm back to work as well. I do plan on going back one of these days, but I think I'm already set up with a buddy for the next time.
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I know you already stated that you knew you had too heavy of line on but I use 6 to 4lb test line for walleyes to put it into perspective. As muddy as the water was, going down to 4lb would probably not have helped but I'm just throwing that out there for future reference.
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if you slip bobber was doing ok out of the water but not in, you likely have a slit or groove cut in the bead or top of the bobber that your line gets caught in when casted out from shore and the line is at an angle from the rod tip to the top of the bobber. Most cheap slip bobbers have this issue after a few outings with them. I replace all the plastic beads in the top of the bobbers I use with either glass or metal to prevent the 'groove' issue. Nothing worse than trying to fish 18ft down and your line won't go down thru the bobber after you cast it out.
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if you slip bobber was doing ok out of the water but not in, you likely have a slit or groove cut in the bead or top of the bobber that your line gets caught in when casted out from shore and the line is at an angle from the rod tip to the top of the bobber. Most cheap slip bobbers have this issue after a few outings with them. I replace all the plastic beads in the top of the bobbers I use with either glass or metal to prevent the 'groove' issue. Nothing worse than trying to fish 18ft down and your line won't go down thru the bobber after you cast it out.
I dont even use the beads. I was thinking there wasnt enough weight to pull the line thru the bobber
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if you slip bobber was doing ok out of the water but not in, you likely have a slit or groove cut in the bead or top of the bobber that your line gets caught in when casted out from shore and the line is at an angle from the rod tip to the top of the bobber. Most cheap slip bobbers have this issue after a few outings with them. I replace all the plastic beads in the top of the bobbers I use with either glass or metal to prevent the 'groove' issue. Nothing worse than trying to fish 18ft down and your line won't go down thru the bobber after you cast it out.
Yep! Stans slip bobbers will eliminate this!
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Thanks for the help. I'll have to examine those slip bobbers more closely. In the meantime, I'm going to try my hand at catfishing with that 10 pound test on there. That should be appropriate, right?
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LOL, when you said spring bobber I sure wasn't thinking that. I was picturing a spring on the end of your pole :o That's why I wanted pictures. Now this makes more since.
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I totally fish slip bobbers. I found some real small pre tied knots that do not hang up in the guides as I use ultra lite reels on fly rods. The knots I find most of the time are the bright colored ones that are made of heavy string that lets the knot catch in the snake guides of a fly rod changing the depth.
I also do not use beads any more.
I am fishing in deeper water so the length of the fly rod gives me the extra power to set the hook when there is 8 foot or more line below the bobber. I fish from a pontoon but I work the area looking for schools of fish so some of my casts are pretty long and there is why the fly rod length also helps.
Lots of fun with the fly rod when a pike or big bass decides to take a perch minnow on 4 lb line.
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Use unwaxed (round is preferred over flat) dental floss for your bobber stops instead of the pretied off the shelf stuff. When tied on properly and trimmed it will not catch in even the smallest guides or slip when casting or fighting a fish. It does need replaced on occasion especially if you make huge swings in the depths you fish. Like changing it from 20ft to 5 ft and back means you will have slid the knot 30 ft on your line. They will get loose when moving them alot. Just carefully snip it off with fingernail clippers and tie on another. One thing of floss in your tackle box will last years.
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Thanks for the advice. Just to clarify, I've never used a bobber and fly rod together, as I have only ever used floating line. However, that combination of an ultra light reel, with 4lb test, on my 11 ft fly rod sounds interesting. :)
I wonder how that would cast?
I can see myself knocking out a group of folk's behind me because I forgot and did a back cast. Casting overhand with my fly rod and throwing a jig combo seems like it would take some getting used to. Folk's in the boat better wear helmets. :)
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Use unwaxed (round is preferred over flat) dental floss for your bobber stops instead of the pretied off the shelf stuff. When tied on properly and trimmed it will not catch in even the smallest guides or slip when casting or fighting a fish. It does need replaced on occasion especially if you make huge swings in the depths you fish. Like changing it from 20ft to 5 ft and back means you will have slid the knot 30 ft on your line. They will get loose when moving them alot. Just carefully snip it off with fingernail clippers and tie on another. One thing of floss in your tackle box will last years.
how are you tying this on your line??
ive tried the little red rubber ones with holes in the end
the peach colored ones with holes all the way through
and the bright green thills that are pre tied and always manage to get them caught in my line guides its really agrevating having to adjust it all the time
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Valpo Gal The bobber casts real good with the ultra light reel. When you reel up the bobber there is not that much line hanging off the tip of the rod so there is no real problem with hitting some one with a back cast.
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You're quite convincing! I'm going to have to try this. Thank You.
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how are you tying this on your line??
ive tried the little red rubber ones with holes in the end
the peach colored ones with holes all the way through
and the bright green thills that are pre tied and always manage to get them caught in my line guides its really agrevating having to adjust it all the time
I have never used a store bought bobber stop as they are too bulky and get caught on everything.
Use this for rods with small guides.
http://www.netknots.com/fishing_knots/bobber-stopper-knot/ (http://www.netknots.com/fishing_knots/bobber-stopper-knot/)
For rods with larger guides like a normal spinning rod you can use the knot above or just 2 double overhand knots. In all cases you must pull the knot very tight and then trim the tags close. All bobber stops work best when they are tied on very close to or at the level you want to fish at instead of tying it right above the bobber then having to slide them many feet from where you tied them.
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Get the net
Thanks for the link to the bobber knot. That would take all the work out of tearing a set up off to put a new knot on when one loosens up.
My problem would be with my aging eye sight and screwed up hands trying to tie it in on bobbing boat.
I carry extra rods all set up on my boat so I do not have to take the time to replace a loosened knot.
The small knots that my go to bait shop carries are made from small diameter Dacron thread so they do not hang up in the snake guides. They stay tight a lot better than the normal one you find.
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ya that looksl ike itll hold thank you very much for the link
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I just ordered the knot tier that shows up in the link that Get The Net put up. I will let you know how it works. Cost $6.99 with only 75 cents shipping. Ya that is right 75 cents shipping
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I just tie that knot on my index finger.
There is enough space between your fingernail and skin to slide the string through.
hold the line and string side by side between forefinger and thumb.
five or six wraps around line, string and finger.
start wrapping from tip of finger towards knuckle.
slide end through said space and pull off finger slowly.
first tag end is by knuckle, last goes opposite
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That might be alright for you young whipper snappers but us old farts have bad hands and eyes.
Just wait being old and decrepit will catch up to you.
The thing I liked about the tyer I ordered is that you do not need to tear apart a set up to tie the knot. I have had a few of the store bought knots loosen up. With this I can slide the knot out of the way and tie a second knot below it and go back to fishing.
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I worked down there last week for a day and it was the first time I had been there since I was in high school. Forgot how big it was nice pic. The spillway was a flowing! Hope to get back there in a boat.
Greg
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if you slip bobber was doing ok out of the water but not in, you likely have a slit or groove cut in the bead or top of the bobber that your line gets caught in when casted out from shore and the line is at an angle from the rod tip to the top of the bobber. Most cheap slip bobbers have this issue after a few outings with them. I replace all the plastic beads in the top of the bobbers I use with either glass or metal to prevent the 'groove' issue. Nothing worse than trying to fish 18ft down and your line won't go down thru the bobber after you cast it out.
I don't even use the beads and have no issues.
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I don't even use the beads and have no issues.
I am not talking about the extra bead that alot of bobbers come with that you are supposed to put on above the bobber. I am talking about the cheap plastic ones some bobbers put in the top of the post. 2-4 lb line will cut gooves into those plastic beads. It has been happening for 30 years to me until I started pulling them out and replacing them with metal or glass ones, then I have no issues. Are you saying you just remove the bead completely? If so, what keeps your slip knot from going right through the post with that big hole in the top?
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I have never thought of a bead being the hole in the top of a slip bobber.
When I think beads I think of the beads that they supply with pre tied knots to go on the line between the knot and the bobber. I never us those beads as they can get caught in the tip of the fly rods I use. the bobbers work fine with the knots that I have been using with out the beads.
I have never had the top of a bobber get a grove or split in it. I put a lot of force I my hook sets as I am usually fishing quite a ways from the boat and in 8 foot of water.
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I am not talking about the extra bead that alot of bobbers come with that you are supposed to put on above the bobber. I am talking about the cheap plastic ones some bobbers put in the top of the post. 2-4 lb line will cut gooves into those plastic beads. It has been happening for 30 years to me until I started pulling them out and replacing them with metal or glass ones, then I have no issues. Are you saying you just remove the bead completely? If so, what keeps your slip knot from going right through the post with that big hole in the top?
My slip bobbers don't have a bead on top. Just a tube with a small hole. Knot doesn't go through. I'll take a pic tomorrow and post it.
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My slip bobbers don't have a bead on top. Just a tube with a small hole. Knot doesn't go through. I'll take a pic tomorrow and post it.
R U using Stan's bobbers? Those have a shiny metal 'cap' on the tube instead of a bead and they seem to work well, but I have not been able to find the stan's bobbers in the size I use in quite some time.
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Hers the trick i use. Take a pop rivet,remove the nail, cut the red bead off end of bobber, slide a rivet collar on both ends of bobber, drop of glue and you'll never have trouble with line cutting groove again and a whole lot cheaper than a stans bobber and works much better because of the rivet on both ends. Use as big a bobber you want and any size line.
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Hers the trick i use. Take a pop rivet,remove the nail, cut the red bead off end of bobber, slide a rivet collar on both ends of bobber, drop of glue and you'll never have trouble with line cutting groove again and a whole lot cheaper than a stans bobber and works much better because of the rivet on both ends. Use as big a bobber you want and any size line.
X2
This is what I do also. It works excellent.
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I guess I had better check all of my slip bobbers for groves in the top of the bobbers as I have never had a problem that I would consider being caused by the bobber cutting the line. Line breakage from having to continually tighten up the politically correct hard split shot. Any one in the PC states that banned lead have some illegal real lead split shot they want to sell?
Using a pop rivet in the top of the bobber might be a help but having to get the line out a small hole on both ends sounds like it would be a pain to get the line through the small hole on the bottom of the bobber.
Some one have a link or picture of the stans bobber as I have never heard of them in the frozen north of Michigan
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I've seen Stan's slip bobbers wear a groove on the bottom also
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Lighter the line the greater chance of the line cutting either end of the bobbers. Stans bobber work well for the top other than they have a small opening compared to a rivet. A revit on both ends isn't as hard as it seems as long as you twist your line as you slide end thru bobber. The dbl revit allows you to use less lead or use heavier line to get down fast. You'll be able to use a smaller bobber for those finicky biters.
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Lighter the line the greater chance of the line cutting either end of the bobbers. Stans bobber work well for the top other than they have a small opening compared to a rivet. A revit on both ends isn't as hard as it seems as long as you twist your line as you slide end thru bobber. The dbl revit allows you to use less lead or use heavier line to get down fast. You'll be able to use a smaller bobber for those finicky biters.
Yes...Stans do have an issue with the line cutting into the stem at the bottom. One way to solve the line threading problem is to put a 2 ft piece of line thru the top rivet, then the bobber then the bottom rivet before you assemble the bobber with rivets in both ends. Tie a double overhand knot to tie the two ends together. Now you have the bobber on a loop of line where if you trim the knots tags, the knot should go thru the rivet holes. Now when you need to put it on your rod you tie the end of your line onto the loop near the knot then slide it againt the knot on the loop. Cycle the loop of line thru the bobber one time and it should pull your rod's line thru both rivets and the bobber. Once thru, just clip off the loop and continue rigging with your sinkers, hook and slip knot. I use this method when putting in beads in both ends of the stem. It makes it quick and easy to put on a bobber, and I have several with the line thru them in my tackle box.
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I checked stans web site. I use thin pencil shaped slip bobbers to cut down on resistance when a fish hits. The only one of that style I saw were sized for big fish not pan fish so I guess I will stick with the ones I have.
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Here's what I'm using. No issues with line cutting the float or the knot going through. Maybe I don't use them enough, as I do vary my techniques.
Are you using the correct ties for the lb. test you are using? I notice there are two sizes.
(https://www.myfishfinder.com/fishing_forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi11.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa169%2FCecilBaird1%2FIMG_0556_zps2b734fc5.jpg&hash=8fa6de8eb14de26df271f5863a842446) (http://s11.photobucket.com/user/CecilBaird1/media/IMG_0556_zps2b734fc5.jpg.html)
(https://www.myfishfinder.com/fishing_forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi11.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa169%2FCecilBaird1%2FIMG_0558_zps26312227.jpg&hash=9a75d4c1eb12cab5e9bf488f1cad52b3) (http://s11.photobucket.com/user/CecilBaird1/media/IMG_0558_zps26312227.jpg.html)
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Taxid
I use to use a bigger knot similar to the one in your pictures. The ones I find have one knot per sleeve. They constantly hung up in the guides of the fly rods I fish with, changing the depth. They were made by some big name tackle company and came in a plastic tube.
I was at a local sport shop one day when I noticed he had some knots that had smaller thread that looked like Dacron but is not like I mentioned in an earlier post. I have never had them hang up in the guides or the hole in the bobber. The came from Fisher Bait and Tackle, White Pigeon, Mi.
The knot tier that I ordered from the advertisement in the tutorial on how to tie a slip knot that some one posted earlier in this thread came today. I have yet to try it but it looks like I can make it work even with my bad eyes and hands. It comes with a bobbin filled with plenty of smaller diameter string that will do a lot of knots. Nice part is you can tie the knot on the line with out tearing the terminal tackle off the line so you can replace a lost or loosened knot a lot easier.
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Here's what I'm using. No issues with line cutting the float or the knot going through. Maybe I don't use them enough, as I do vary my techniques.
Are you using the correct ties for the lb. test you are using? I notice there are two sizes.
(https://www.myfishfinder.com/fishing_forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi11.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa169%2FCecilBaird1%2FIMG_0556_zps2b734fc5.jpg&hash=8fa6de8eb14de26df271f5863a842446) (http://s11.photobucket.com/user/CecilBaird1/media/IMG_0556_zps2b734fc5.jpg.html)
(https://www.myfishfinder.com/fishing_forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi11.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa169%2FCecilBaird1%2FIMG_0558_zps26312227.jpg&hash=9a75d4c1eb12cab5e9bf488f1cad52b3) (http://s11.photobucket.com/user/CecilBaird1/media/IMG_0558_zps26312227.jpg.html)
That looks like the bead I always replace. 2-4lb line will cut grooves in those after repeated use. The farther you cast and shallower you fish the worse it is. If fising deep water where the bobber is usually pulled under a ways and you don't have worry about spooking them, so you don't have to cast as far, the problem lessens. I never used those bobber stops. They get caught on the guides and in the reel when fishing deep and trying to cast. Round unwaxed dental floss works as well and one 'box' will last for years.
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That looks like the bead I always replace. 2-4lb line will cut grooves in those after repeated use. The farther you cast and shallower you fish the worse it is. If fising deep water where the bobber is usually pulled under a ways and you don't have worry about spooking them, so you don't have to cast as far, the problem lessens. I never used those bobber stops. They get caught on the guides and in the reel when fishing deep and trying to cast. Round unwaxed dental floss works as well and one 'box' will last for years.
Interesting. No issues getting caught in the guides or reel with my spinning rods and reels. I use 8 pound test test when I harvest fish from the pond as I want to bring them in asap if I end up releasing them.
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I do not have any problems with the bigger knots when I use a spinning rod. It was the hang ups of the big knots in the snake guides of my fly rods.
I had my brother build the boss woman a new rod on a fly rod blank but set up as a spinning rod so she does not have the problem with the bigger knots hanging up.
I guess I had better take a magnifying glass and check the top holes of my bobbers for groves from my 4 lb line.
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I make my own slip floats out of balsa, and I use glass craft beads for the slide as they will not be cut by the line. A couple of tips.....the secret to any float, whether it be fixed or sliding, is proper balance. You should add weight to achieve a near neutral buoyancy, so the float will signal the slightest take. Many off the shelf slip floats utilize a barrel weight on the stem, held in place by a rubber o-ring.
For my homemade floats I take steel flat washers, of an appropriate size for the "stem", and cut a slit on one side. This allows me to adjust weight, a little at a time, without breaking my line to do so. I slide the o-ring down off the stem onto my line, and just add or remove flat washers onto my line, via the slit, then slide them up onto the stem, followed by the o-ring to hold them in place. Works great, and by adding weight to the float instead of the line, it helps maintain sensitivity on those subtle uptakes.
Also, I add a second stop below the slip float......if I encounter a situation which would be better served by a fixed float, I can slide the stop up against the float and "capture" it between the top and bottom stops, so it cannot move.
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Interesting. No issues getting caught in the guides or reel with my spinning rods and reels. I use 8 pound test test when I harvest fish from the pond as I want to bring them in asap if I end up releasing them.
Might be the 8lb line that is thick enough to prevent it, but with 2 and sometimes 4lb, the line on the spinning reel will get caught on those larger slip knots down in the reel on the cast and send the whole step up into the water right in front of you. Using dental floss has nearly eliminated the issue for me.
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I make my own slip floats out of balsa, and I use glass craft beads for the slide as they will not be cut by the line. A couple of tips.....the secret to any float, whether it be fixed or sliding, is proper balance. You should add weight to achieve a near neutral buoyancy, so the float will signal the slightest take. Many off the shelf slip floats utilize a barrel weight on the stem, held in place by a rubber o-ring.
For my homemade floats I take steel flat washers, of an appropriate size for the "stem", and cut a slit on one side. This allows me to adjust weight, a little at a time, without breaking my line to do so. I slide the o-ring down off the stem onto my line, and just add or remove flat washers onto my line, via the slit, then slide them up onto the stem, followed by the o-ring to hold them in place. Works great, and by adding weight to the float instead of the line, it helps maintain sensitivity on those subtle uptakes.
Also, I add a second stop below the slip float......if I encounter a situation which would be better served by a fixed float, I can slide the stop up against the float and "capture" it between the top and bottom stops, so it cannot move.
Interesting. Can you post a pic of the washer setup?
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Here's one of mine:
(https://www.myfishfinder.com/fishing_forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1067.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu434%2Fsprkplugphoto%2F101_2027_zpsd95df851.jpg&hash=086eb3a846bc8b7f4e2522c85c0fe23b) (http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/sprkplugphoto/media/101_2027_zpsd95df851.jpg.html)
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Thanks...that makes sense. Do you not use any sinkers on your line below your bobber and above your hook? I use bobbers that my grandfather made out of balsa also but they look smaller than those from top to bottom but are wider. Hard to describe but they are kind of in the shape of hot air balloon, but flatter on top. Usually one bb sinker under the bobber and a larger one about 14 inches above the hook is all that is needed to get the bobber to ride with just the very tip top of the painted balsa above the water and the top stem. Hard to see from a distance in the waves sometimes, but the lightest bite takes them under.
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To me, a slipfloat requires two kinds of weight. Casting weight, needed to get out there, and placement weight, needed to take my bait down to depth. I want the smallest placement weight I can get by with, so as to not spook the fish when they pick up my offering and feel resistance, but I may need some extra casting weight in order to hit that spot 50-60' away. That's why I prefer the bulk of my weight to be attached to the float itself, and not the line....it gives me the flexibility needed to cast for distance, and still not have my bait plummet to the bottom like a rock...I just want enough weight on the line to take my bait to depth, no more.
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To me, a slipfloat requires two kinds of weight. Casting weight, needed to get out there, and placement weight, needed to take my bait down to depth. I want the smallest placement weight I can get by with, so as to not spook the fish when they pick up my offering and feel resistance, but I may need some extra casting weight in order to hit that spot 50-60' away. That's why I prefer the bulk of my weight to be attached to the float itself, and not the line....it gives me the flexibility needed to cast for distance, and still not have my bait plummet to the bottom like a rock...I just want enough weight on the line to take my bait to depth, no more.
Agree 100%. I have no issue chucking it a longs ways with just the 2 sinkers, hook and bobber on there. That is with a 6.5 -7ft UL and full spool of 2-4 lb line on the reel. I think if I added washers to my bobber it would sink it unless I removed all but the one bb shot. I will have to play around with this to see if I can get the weight onto the bobber and just use the bb shot to get the bait down slowly.
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sprkplug, Do you turn those bobbers on a wood lathe? Never tried to turn balsa wood??!! Thanks!!!!
pearly
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sprkplug, Do you turn those bobbers on a wood lathe? Never tried to turn balsa wood??!! Thanks!!!!
pearly
I don't own a wood lathe, but I use my metal lathe instead. It could use a higher speed, but it gets the job done. Lots of dust on the ways though.
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Thank you!!!!!!! :laugh:
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Took a ride down last night with my son, did alright. A few crappie, and a bunch of bull heads.