Muddy Missy Mistakes

[tomturkey]

That might be alright for you young whipper snappers but us old farts have bad hands and eyes.

Just wait being old and decrepit will catch up to you.

The thing I liked about the tyer I ordered is that you do not need to tear apart a set up to tie the knot. I have had a few of the store bought knots loosen up. With this I can slide the knot out of the way and tie a second knot below it and go back to fishing.

[Greg2ha]

I worked down there last week for a day and it was the first time I had been there since I was in high school. Forgot how big it was nice pic. The spillway was a flowing! Hope to get back there in a boat.



Greg

[taxid]

if you slip bobber was doing ok out of the water but not in, you likely have a slit or groove cut in the bead or top of the bobber that your line gets caught in when casted out from shore and the line is at an angle from the rod tip to the top of the bobber.  Most cheap slip bobbers have this issue after a few outings with them.  I replace all the plastic beads in the top of the bobbers I use with either glass or metal to prevent the 'groove' issue.  Nothing worse than trying to fish 18ft down and your line won't go down thru the bobber after you cast it out.

I don't even use the beads and have no issues.

[Get_the_Net]

I don't even use the beads and have no issues.

I am not talking about the extra bead that alot of bobbers come with that you are supposed to put on above the bobber.  I am talking about the cheap plastic ones some bobbers put in the top of the post.  2-4 lb line will cut gooves into those plastic beads.  It has been happening for 30 years to me until I started pulling them out and replacing them with metal or glass ones, then I have no issues.  Are you saying you just remove the bead completely?  If so, what keeps your slip knot from going right through the post with that big hole in the top?

[tomturkey]

I have never thought of a bead being the hole in the top of a slip bobber.

When I think beads I think of the beads that they supply with pre tied knots to go on the line between the knot and the bobber. I never us those beads as they can get caught in the tip of the fly rods I use. the bobbers work fine with the knots that I have been using with out the beads.

I have never had the top of a bobber get a grove or split in it. I put a lot of force I my hook sets as I am usually fishing quite a ways from the boat and in 8 foot of water.

[taxid]

I am not talking about the extra bead that alot of bobbers come with that you are supposed to put on above the bobber.  I am talking about the cheap plastic ones some bobbers put in the top of the post.  2-4 lb line will cut gooves into those plastic beads.  It has been happening for 30 years to me until I started pulling them out and replacing them with metal or glass ones, then I have no issues.  Are you saying you just remove the bead completely?  If so, what keeps your slip knot from going right through the post with that big hole in the top?

My slip bobbers don't have a bead on top. Just a tube with a small hole. Knot doesn't go through. I'll take a pic tomorrow and post it.

[Get_the_Net]

My slip bobbers don't have a bead on top. Just a tube with a small hole. Knot doesn't go through. I'll take a pic tomorrow and post it.

R U using Stan's bobbers?  Those have a shiny metal 'cap' on the tube instead of a bead and they seem to work well, but I have not been able to find the stan's bobbers in the size I use in quite some time.

[bigr]

Hers the trick i use. Take a pop rivet,remove the nail, cut the red bead off end of bobber, slide a rivet collar on both ends of bobber, drop of glue and you'll never have trouble with line cutting groove again and a whole lot cheaper than a stans bobber and works much better because of the rivet on both ends. Use as big a bobber you want and any size line.

[rivercruiser]

Hers the trick i use. Take a pop rivet,remove the nail, cut the red bead off end of bobber, slide a rivet collar on both ends of bobber, drop of glue and you'll never have trouble with line cutting groove again and a whole lot cheaper than a stans bobber and works much better because of the rivet on both ends. Use as big a bobber you want and any size line.

X2

This is what I do also. It works excellent.

[tomturkey]

I guess I had better check all of my slip bobbers for groves in the top of the bobbers as I have never had a problem that I would consider being caused by the bobber cutting the line. Line breakage from having to continually tighten up the politically correct hard split shot. Any one in the PC states that banned lead have some illegal real lead split shot they want to sell?

Using a pop rivet in the top of the bobber might be a help but having to get the line out a small hole on both ends sounds like it would be a pain to get the line through the small hole on the bottom of the bobber.

Some one have a link or picture of the stans bobber as I have never heard of them in the frozen north of Michigan

[popnfish]

I've seen Stan's slip bobbers wear a groove on the bottom also

[bigr]

Lighter the line the greater chance of the line cutting either end of the bobbers. Stans bobber work well for the top other than they have a small opening compared to a rivet. A revit on both ends isn't as hard as it seems as long as you twist your line as you slide end thru bobber. The dbl revit allows you to use less lead or use heavier line to get down fast. You'll be able to use a smaller bobber for those finicky biters. 

[Get_the_Net]

Lighter the line the greater chance of the line cutting either end of the bobbers. Stans bobber work well for the top other than they have a small opening compared to a rivet. A revit on both ends isn't as hard as it seems as long as you twist your line as you slide end thru bobber. The dbl revit allows you to use less lead or use heavier line to get down fast. You'll be able to use a smaller bobber for those finicky biters. 

Yes...Stans do have an issue with the line cutting into the stem at the bottom.  One way to solve the line threading problem is to put a 2 ft piece of line thru the top rivet, then the bobber then the bottom rivet before you assemble the bobber with rivets in both ends.  Tie a double overhand knot to tie the two ends together.  Now you have the bobber on a loop of line where if you trim the knots tags, the knot should go thru the rivet holes.  Now when you need to put it on your rod you tie the end of your line onto the loop near the knot then slide it againt the knot on the loop.  Cycle the loop of line thru the bobber one time and it should pull your rod's line thru both rivets and the bobber.  Once thru, just clip off the loop and continue rigging with your sinkers, hook and slip knot.  I use this method when putting in beads in both ends of the stem.  It makes it quick and easy to put on a bobber, and I have several with the line thru them in my tackle box.

[tomturkey]

I checked stans web site. I use thin pencil shaped slip bobbers to cut down on resistance when a fish hits. The only one of that style I saw were sized for big fish not pan fish so I guess I will stick with the ones I have.

[taxid]

Here's what I'm using. No issues with line cutting the float or the knot going through. Maybe I don't use them enough, as I do vary my techniques.

Are you using the correct ties for the lb. test you are using? I notice there are two sizes.