MyFishFinder Forum
MFF US Northeast => Maine => Topic started by: Jethro on Mar 26, 2018, 08:38 AM
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I just got what I hope will be a real nice trolling boat, it's a 2003, 21' Sylvan Pro Fish. The previous owner didn't troll with it, it has a 150 Merc V6 2 stroke, and I imagine it won't be ideal for trolling. I think it will be loud and inefficient, and he says it will get down to 3mph. So I have a lot of options- I can get a trolling plate, I can drag trolling bags, I can get a small 4 stroke kicker with a bracket or I can upgrade the electric to something that will last all day trolling and have autopilot. Obviously there are advantages and disadvantages to all options. Was hoping to get feedback from the more experienced guys with dedicated trolling boats. I know a 4 stroke kicker is probably going to be the best option if money is no object, but I'm trying to get over the sting of the boat purchase first, so I was thinking a trolling plate for now.
Sorry I didn't put this in the boat section, but there are some serious trolling guys here on the Maine board I was hoping to communicate with. Thanks
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I owned a 21' Sylvan open bow back in the early 90's.
Had a 120 Mercruiser I/O in it.
Trolled down, but would eventually load up the plugs with carbon.
I installed a trolling plate so I could increase the RPM's a bit and reduce or eliminate the carbon buildup.
Helped, but I hated the plate.
I've had plates on 3 boats.
I've left them down a few times and bent them when powering up to get on plane.
Not a fan of drilling my motor's lower unit either.
Also, maneuverability in rougher seas or higher winds stinks with a plate.
A better option are drift socks, one on each side of the boat.
They are quite inexpensive and work.
In the end, putting more hours on the large (more expensive) motor while trolling is never a good thing.
A 4 stroke kicker easily pays for itself over the long haul.
I have had a kicker on 5 boats now and will NEVER do it any other way.
For me, it's just not worth it.
My current Lund has a Honda kicker on the back and a 24 volt Minn Kota Terova with ipilot on the bow.
This is the best way to do it IMHO.
But it isn't cheap.
I also added a 2nd bank of trolling batteries, wired in parallel with the other two.
Added a 2nd 2-bank on board charger for them too.
This gives me double the trolling time with the Minn Kota.
Get the kicker Jethro - you will be glad you did.
And be sure it's electric start with an alternator to keep your battery charged while you are running your electronics.
If you can't swing it right now, get the bags.
Good luck................and please post some photos of this new rig.
Mac
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Mac.. thanks for the info, pretty much what I figured but had to ask. Definitely seems I got the right guy on this thread and I hope I don't annoy you with all my questions! I really have no interest in drilling the big motor either. It was just rebuilt to the tune of $4,700 and it's possible at some point I might want to repower with a big 4 stroke anyway, so I don't want to sell a motor with a drilled cavitation plate. I guess I never thought about how it would handle poorly with a plate, I am already worried about how much of a bear this boat will be in the wind and waves due to it's size. It has an older Powerdrive motor, a 12v that I was already planning on upgrading at some point, but probably not this year. I think I will get the trolling bags to start this season but the long term plan will definitely be a kicker.
Let me ask if you don't mind.. what is the best way to mount it? I see a lot of these spring loaded, drop down plates, but it appears you can't trailer with the motor installed? Do they have rigid mounts that I could install or are they built custom and to order? Is it important to have a power trim, e-start motor? Just trying to see how cheap I can get away with for the short term. I plan on fishing some pretty remote waters here in the Northeast, so I sure would like a backup motor as well.
How big of a kicker do I really need? I understand how the larger ones have a more powerful charging system, but right now I don't run anything other than my sonar/gps while trolling. This is my first boat with a radio... maybe I'll be using that while trolling but I doubt it, I don't even use the radio in my truck. I don't have electric riggers, maybe in the future but not now. So to get myself set up just to troll can I get away with an 8hp? Am I going to hate myself if I try to do without remote throttle control?
This is the boat, I just picked it up Friday so I don't have the greatest pictures of it, more pending:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Sports/Boats/i-86pb4LV/0/633553b2/L/20180324_152605-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Sports/Boats/i-82L6NL5/0/fcefc405/L/20180324_105320-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Sports/Boats/i-Vq9htBg/0/a83b04e1/L/20180324_102717-L.jpg)
Thanks again! -Geoff
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Mount the kicker off to the right of the big motor.
No mounting plate.
Just make sure the lower unit is long enough to get the prop below the hull.
Remember, while trolling the hull isn't up on plane high in the water.
I trim the motor up while running with the big motor.
Mine is manual trim/tilt.
I have had power trim/tilt and highly recomend it.
Here's some photos of mine taken a couple years back.
I trailer with it all the time.
Straight up and down.
(https://s14.postimg.org/7lp7j6dml/New_Kicker_2.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/7lp7j6dml/)
(https://s14.postimg.org/yjj4ky0ul/New_Kicker_1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/yjj4ky0ul/)
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click on the photos for a larger image.
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I had a Honda 8hp 4-stroke on my 25' Trophy that worked great.
That boat was WAY heavier than yours.
My 25' Sportcraft hardtop had a 9.9 Honda on it.
And the Sportcraft probably weighed 3X what your boat weighs.
(It had a 351 V8 in it)
You don't want too large of a kicker or you won't be able to go slow enough.
My Lund is only 16.5' and the 8hp on it is too much, but I wanted a twin cylinder, not a single cylinder.
Twins are WAY smoother - less vibration.
So I ended up re-pitching the prop and also cutting down the diameter of it.
I troll mostly for walleyes.
With the ipilot, it was tough to get down below 2mph at an idle.
Repitched and diameter cut gets me down now below 1.5mph.
I can operate the kicker at slightly more rpm.
Less carbon build up on the plugs and better alternator output.
Good luck.
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Mac.. thanks for the info, pretty much what I figured but had to ask. Definitely seems I got the right guy on this thread and I hope I don't annoy you with all my questions! I really have no interest in drilling the big motor either. It was just rebuilt to the tune of $4,700 and it's possible at some point I might want to repower with a big 4 stroke anyway, so I don't want to sell a motor with a drilled cavitation plate. I guess I never thought about how it would handle poorly with a plate, I am already worried about how much of a bear this boat will be in the wind and waves due to it's size. It has an older Powerdrive motor, a 12v that I was already planning on upgrading at some point, but probably not this year. I think I will get the trolling bags to start this season but the long term plan will definitely be a kicker.
Let me ask if you don't mind.. what is the best way to mount it? I see a lot of these spring loaded, drop down plates, but it appears you can't trailer with the motor installed? Do they have rigid mounts that I could install or are they built custom and to order? Is it important to have a power trim, e-start motor? Just trying to see how cheap I can get away with for the short term. I plan on fishing some pretty remote waters here in the Northeast, so I sure would like a backup motor as well.
How big of a kicker do I really need? I understand how the larger ones have a more powerful charging system, but right now I don't run anything other than my sonar/gps while trolling. This is my first boat with a radio... maybe I'll be using that while trolling but I doubt it, I don't even use the radio in my truck. I don't have electric riggers, maybe in the future but not now. So to get myself set up just to troll can I get away with an 8hp? Am I going to hate myself if I try to do without remote throttle control?
This is the boat, I just picked it up Friday so I don't have the greatest pictures of it, more pending:
Thanks again! -Geoff
Nice clean looking boat and trailer in good shape! I see a lot of boats out here that are decent but the trailer is crap or undersized. People go cheap on the trailers and regret it.
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Oh that is awesome, I didn't realize I could mount on the transom without a plate. I never thought about the boat being much lower in the water when not on plane, so I figured I'd need a plate that drops down.
So I'm guessing you use both the Terrova and the honda in conjuntion when you troll? Just lock out the honda and steer and fine tune speed with the Terrova? Yes, it sounds expensive but ideal. I may have to see if the budget allows.
Thanks for the info again Mac. Fantastic rig you have, I wanted to buy a Lund but there was no way I could afford one. Double the budget I had to work with.
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Nice clean looking boat and trailer in good shape! I see a lot of boats out here that are decent but the trailer is crap or undersized. People go cheap on the trailers and regret it.
Thanks! Yes, it's carpet and seats are a bit tired but it is solid and fairly clean. It's a bit bigger than I wanted, but I could not for the life of me find a 18-19' walkthrough windshield that wasn't underpowered and/or had a terrible trailer. This trailer was bought brand new in 2011 he gave me the sales receipt, it was $3,899.00!! I checked the brakes, it's clean and works perfect. Very happy with it so far.
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So I'm guessing you use both the Terrova and the honda in conjuntion when you troll? Just lock out the honda and steer and fine tune speed with the Terrova? Yes, it sounds expensive but ideal. I may have to see if the budget allows.
Yup.
Lots of guys doing this these days.
Works sweet.
I set up my neighbor's Polar Kraft with a kicker and ipilot about 6 yrs ago.
Yea, it's a bit of money, but it's the only way to troll.
If you troll alone, or if there's 2 of you and get more than one fish on............
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trolling with the plate will be more than a gallon per hour, trolling with a kicker will be less than 3 gallons per weekend. the savings add up quick with a second hand kicker
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Sweet rig jethro! I’m still in ice fishing mode, but I cannot wait for trolling to being. This post is nice to see.
I would Think with two big bags you could get the boat to troll (with your current set up) on the big motor around 2mph. That would cover (for me at least) most of the trolling speed after spring. If you’re thinking about adding a new four stroke down the road, my thought process would be get the bags first, then the iPilot plus trolling motor combo, then the kicker, and lastly your new 4 stroke.
My father has a tracker v18 targa and it has a 4 stroke 150 which gets down to 1.7 ish with two bags out. When we fish slower I use the iPilot set up Mac mentioned without the kicker. I hope to add a kicker to the boat in the next few years, it really seems ideal for keeping hours off the big motor/ saving on gas/ plus remote control with the iPilot.
With only the iPilot I get about 6 hours in ideal conditions at speeds of .8-1.7 mph. This was a huge upgrade for us over the much higher speeds we get with the big motor. With the kicker I think it will go all day long. This was a game changer last spring when I first used it. Nothing like being the only one on the water with a flat lake, and no sound at all. As my dad said last year, “this is zen like”. Peace, quiet, the great outdoors, and the occasional screaming drag.
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I put 200 hours on my merc 150 last year most of it trolling. Some advice to add.
I wish I could spring for a kicker, but n the meantime I’m dragging a bag. Amish Outfitters bag. Well made. Too many people told me to stay away from drift socks because they are meant to drift, not drag. Good luck.
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trolling with the plate will be more than a gallon per hour, trolling with a kicker will be less than 3 gallons per weekend. the savings add up quick with a second hand kicker
X2
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Nice rig! That will be perfect for trolling.
You got lot's of great info already. The one thing I want to add before you get a kicker know what your boats motor rating is. My boat is rated for a 90 HP. When I bought it I downgraded to a 70 HP because I knew I would be putting a 9.9 HP kicker on it. The combined weight of those two motors is less than the 90. So I didn't have to worry about overloading the transom and having the boat handling badly. Or worse being a safety issue. The reason I brought this up is your have a pretty big motor on there now. Sometimes less is more. :D
The 70 is plenty for what I need. It gets up on plane fine and will do 30 MPH + with two big guys and fully loaded. With the 9.9 I can run down to 1-1.5 MPH no problem. Depending on the wind. :o
You'll notice I went with Yami's. Knock on wood so far they're bulletproof. :D
Lastly with a kicker you want a remote to control the kicker throttle. And a tie bar between the kicker and main motor so you can steer from the helm.
(https://s20.postimg.org/l7z2jc6dp/DSC00470.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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OMG, that's a nice boat! Mine is rated to 225hp so I think it should be able to handle a small kicker.
Just trying to think of what I should do first... the I-Pilot or the kicker? The trolling bags are getting ordered today for sure. I want the I-Pilot but my first big trip of the year is a remote camping situation where I will be off the grid for 4 days. I do this a few times a year so electric won't do me much good there.
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Sweet boat Jethro!!! I saw that one on CL and thought it was a great deal for someone!
I have a very similar Lund Fisherman 2100. I don't think you will think it is too big once you start fishing out of it. Especially once you add in the 3rd fisherman. I have even fished 4 guys and 7 rods without issue out of mine. Its all about rod holder placement and spreading things out with otter boats and downriggers. If you would like some suggestions let me know.
As far as your question I would recommend a kicker as well. I run a merc 15 hp 4-stroke and it works well. I kind of wish it was a 9.9 but that is what came with the boat. Be sure to go with a 2-cylinder motor. The single cylinders vibrate like crazy and will drive you nuts. It is also definitely a good idea to have one that will charge your battery while it is running. I also bought the lowest pitch prop I could find for mine on Ebay. I can get mine to about 1.8 with the prop. I am going to look into getting the diameter cut down like one person suggested in this thread. I have issues with carbon build up in the head of my kicker and it would be nice to run at a slightly higher RPM. I save the big motor for running between spots. Call around to marinas and see if anyone has any leftover previous model year small outboards they are looking to sell. Good luck with the new boat hope to see you out there!
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Yup, I jumped on it. About 6 months ago someone posted a '95 Lund Tyee that was set up nice for close to the same money and I slept on it one day too late, so I called this guy immediately and set it up. I've learned it is next to impossible to find a decent 18' or bigger aluminum walkthrough that isn't underpowered and/or with the wrong trailer. Not that I need something with big power, but what is up with all these heavy, 18' to 20' boats with 40 or 50 horse motors on them? If I'm on big water and I need to scoot for some reason I want that ability.
I am hoping I can grab a 9.9 somewhere used in the next month, but judging how hard it was just to find the boat, that may be tough.
And yes Burgerunh... happy for any suggestions on rod holder placements! I am struggling over the downrigger placement right now as well. This boat has recessed cleats and I don't want to interfere with them.
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I am hoping I can grab a 9.9 somewhere used in the next month, but judging how hard it was just to find the boat, that may be tough.
8 will work too.
electric start required
alternator output for the battery required
power trim/tilt is nice as is a remote throttle, but not required.
Mine is a tiller, but I'm considering a Trollmaster
http://trollmasters.com/ (http://trollmasters.com/)
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make sure whatever trolling motor you get that its covered in the install section of trollmaster or the itroll. had a trollmaster on my old 6hp evinrude for years, broke it last spring and the newer ones will not work with that particular motor. it drives me nuts using the tiller again, really inaccurate speed control with the tiller and walking 10 miles a trip from the steering to the tiller and back gets extremely old
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Yup, I jumped on it. About 6 months ago someone posted a '95 Lund Tyee that was set up nice for close to the same money and I slept on it one day too late, so I called this guy immediately and set it up. I've learned it is next to impossible to find a decent 18' or bigger aluminum walkthrough that isn't underpowered and/or with the wrong trailer. Not that I need something with big power, but what is up with all these heavy, 18' to 20' boats with 40 or 50 horse motors on them? If I'm on big water and I need to scoot for some reason I want that ability.
I am hoping I can grab a 9.9 somewhere used in the next month, but judging how hard it was just to find the boat, that may be tough.
And yes Burgerunh... happy for any suggestions on rod holder placements! I am struggling over the downrigger placement right now as well. This boat has recessed cleats and I don't want to interfere with them.
I've always had my downriggers toward the stern like everybody else..... my new boat they are going to be just forward of midship, seems like it would be a lot easier to work them on the downstream side from the cockpit.
If you can swing it, install one of the track systems, then you can put your rod holders anywhere you want them, same with your downriggers.
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8 will work too.
electric start required
alternator output for the battery required
power trim/tilt is nice as is a remote throttle, but not required.
Mine is a tiller, but I'm considering a Trollmaster
http://trollmasters.com/ (http://trollmasters.com/)
I just ordered a Trollmaster Pro2 for my Honda.
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I just ordered a Trollmaster Pro2 for my Honda.
I've heard these are a far better unit than the Trollmaster.
http://www.itroll.us/itroll.buy.html (http://www.itroll.us/itroll.buy.html)
I have the same unit (new install in 2011) you just ordered and I already had to replace the servo motor on the kicker and last year the remote control wasn't working at the beginning of the season. Not sure what was wrong with it but finally got it to run.
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I've heard these are a far better unit than the Trollmaster.
http://www.itroll.us/itroll.buy.html (http://www.itroll.us/itroll.buy.html)
I have the same unit (new install in 2011) you just ordered and I already had to replace the servo motor on the kicker and last year the remote control wasn't working at the beginning of the season. Not sure what was wrong with it but finally got it to run.
I heard they are good too.
But about $150 more than what I paid.
Sorry you have had so many problems.
A bud of mine has had one for 4 yrs now and zero issues and trolls like 100X more hours than I do.
One unit doesn't create a great overall review however.
Mine is ordered, and shipped.
Wish me luck.
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So here is a question.. I've done some work on my budget, I have a lot of gear to buy so I don't think I'll be able to afford a big dollar kicker let alone a throttle controller just yet. If I buy a cheap, older 6 or 8 horse, tiller controlled kicker, can I lock the throttle? All tiller motors I've used have been return to idle when you remove your hand. What is the low budget solution here for throttle control? I'll trade up likely next season but want to stay off the big motor as much as I can and have the added security of a spare gas motor when I'm remote camping off the grid.
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So here is a question.. I've done some work on my budget, I have a lot of gear to buy so I don't think I'll be able to afford a big dollar kicker let alone a throttle controller just yet. If I buy a cheap, older 6 or 8 horse, tiller controlled kicker, can I lock the throttle? All tiller motors I've used have been return to idle when you remove your hand. What is the low budget solution here for throttle control? I'll trade up likely next season but want to stay off the big motor as much as I can and have the added security of a spare gas motor when I'm remote camping off the grid.
Everything 4-stroke I have ever used had a throttle tension device.
Even the 93 Honda 8hp 4-stroke I had way back on my 25' Trophy.
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Possibly remove the return spring
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Wish me luck.
Good luck.
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So here is a question.. I've done some work on my budget, I have a lot of gear to buy so I don't think I'll be able to afford a big dollar kicker let alone a throttle controller just yet. If I buy a cheap, older 6 or 8 horse, tiller controlled kicker, can I lock the throttle? All tiller motors I've used have been return to idle when you remove your hand. What is the low budget solution here for throttle control? I'll trade up likely next season but want to stay off the big motor as much as I can and have the added security of a spare gas motor when I'm remote camping off the grid.
They typically have a set screw on the throttle handle. Get a two cylinder engine.
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I think I have set up a Merc 6 hp four stroke for fairly short money. Looking at it today. It's a single cyl.. am I going to go crazy with the vibration? The plan is really just get by for this season and maybe some of 2019 until I can afford a remote start, power trim unit. Is there some other reason that I'd want to avoid a single cyl motor other than just how much it vibrates?
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It's a single cyl.. am I going to go crazy with the vibration?
In short, yes.
Unless this motor is almost free, save the money, and save a little more and get a twin.
I've owned 2 singles. An Evinrude and a Merc.
Both shook
Do it right.
You will be much happier.
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In short, yes.
Unless this motor is almost free, save the money, and save a little more and get a twin.
I've owned 2 singles. An Evinrude and a Merc.
Both shook
Do it right.
You will be much happier.
I was afraid you'd say that. It's looking like about half of what I can get a comparable 8 horse 4 stroke for.
There is so much stuff to buy, but I guess this is really the most important thing for now.
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mines a 6 hp 4 stroke single evenrude, its not bad on my fiberglass and wood eastern, but it will rattle an aluminum. i could handle the noise for a year til i found the right motor. if you found an 8 it would be a good test to see if you want to upsize or downsize it when you upgrade
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Yeah, well I am still going to look at this 6 horse today. It's way cheaper than anything else I am finding out there. This aluminum boat is 2500lbs boat, motor and fuel, so I am going to try and live with it. I'm getting a great deal, so I don't think I'll lose any money if I sell in a year.
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My 2 cents worth...and it may not be worth 2 cents.
Run the bags with the big motor and start looking high and low for an 8 or 9.9.....I looked for a year and ended up getting a brand new extra long shaft 9.9 Honda with electric start for 200 bucks.
Got it from a guy that stores boats and was junking a few sails boats that people hadn't paid rent on in a few years, I removed the motor and gave him the 200 bucks to cover the cost of scrapping the hull, we were both very happy.
The motor was under a dog house on the boat for 7ish years and started on the first pull, had to change the water pump impeller, but oh well!! :D
I fished out of a 1976 19' Mako with a 115 2 stroke Erude for a few years, it would burn about $20 in gas in a long day, I think that's pretty cheap entertainment.
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Is it a 2 cycle or 4 cycle aka a 2 stroke or 4 stroke??
If it's short shaft 2 stroke I bought this when gander let them go for 70% of the price 179.99 so I paid $60 for it.. I could let it go it's not mounted yet.. lol's have not had time.. if not I might run a short shaft 2.5 hp I have or a 5 hp I got to find on our 16 foot aluminum sea nymph.. just got to get a tiller bracket for it..
https://www.cabelas.com/product/Auxiliary-Outboard-Adjustable-Motor-Brackets/700685.uts?slotId=4 (https://www.cabelas.com/product/Auxiliary-Outboard-Adjustable-Motor-Brackets/700685.uts?slotId=4)
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Yeah, well I am still going to look at this 6 horse today. It's way cheaper than anything else I am finding out there. This aluminum boat is 2500lbs boat, motor and fuel, so I am going to try and live with it. I'm getting a great deal, so I don't think I'll lose any money if I sell in a year.
Geoff -
Make sure it has an alternator and that the shaft is long enough.
The cavitation plate needs to be in the water, but not necessarily below the hull.Before you go look at the motor go measure your transom height where you intend on mounting the motor.
A really good deal is worthless if the prop isn't in the water.
Good luck.
Mac
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Is it a 2 cycle or 4 cycle aka a 2 stroke or 4 stroke??
If it's short shaft 2 stroke I bought this when gander let them go for 70% of the price 179.99 so I paid $60 for it.. I could let it go it's not mounted yet.. lol's have not had time.. if not I might run a short shaft 2.5 hp I have or a 5 hp I got to find on our 16 foot aluminum sea nymph.. just got to get a tiller bracket for it..
https://www.cabelas.com/product/Auxiliary-Outboard-Adjustable-Motor-Brackets/700685.uts?slotId=4 (https://www.cabelas.com/product/Auxiliary-Outboard-Adjustable-Motor-Brackets/700685.uts?slotId=4)
He doesn't need this on his boat Boon.
He has plenty of room to mount the kicker on the transom next to the big motor.
These brackets are needed if the boat is an I/O
His is an outboard.
I've used them many times over the years and they simply get the kicker too far back and away from the boat for my taste.
Used them on outboard transoms and I/O transoms.
On an I/O no way around using one.
I don't care for them because it increases the chances of getting your downrigger cable or fishing line caught in the motor (don't ask).
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So anyway, I bought it.
Is it a 2 cycle or 4 cycle aka a 2 stroke or 4 stroke??
If it's short shaft 2 stroke I bought this when gander let them go for 70% of the price 179.99 so I paid $60 for it.. I could let it go it's not mounted yet.. lol's have not had time.. if not I might run a short shaft 2.5 hp I have or a 5 hp I got to find on our 16 foot aluminum sea nymph.. just got to get a tiller bracket for it..
https://www.cabelas.com/product/Auxiliary-Outboard-Adjustable-Motor-Brackets/700685.uts?slotId=4 (https://www.cabelas.com/product/Auxiliary-Outboard-Adjustable-Motor-Brackets/700685.uts?slotId=4)
It's a 4 stroke and a long shaft, I did measure before looking at it and I think the long shaft will be the correct one- if not, hopefully I won't need an XL shaft (did I mention this boat is BIG?) I really want to avoid using a bracket. Everything I read says I am not supposed to trailer with a motor attached to a bracket, so that is no good for me. I have enough to deal with at the launch.
My 2 cents worth...and it may not be worth 2 cents.
Run the bags with the big motor and start looking high and low for an 8 or 9.9.....I looked for a year and ended up getting a brand new extra long shaft 9.9 Honda with electric start for 200 bucks.
I will keep my ear to the ground about an 8, 9.9 or even a 15 Pro Kicker, but this deal was very good and I'm happy. I have heard nightmares about trolling on my 150 Merc carb model. If it was injected than possibly but apparently this carb model tends to really build up and be a problem when you want to run it. I came really close to buying the bags, but I remote camp for two weeks out of the year, miles from help or cell service, so I really would like a backup motor as well that isn't electric.
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Geoff -
Make sure it has an alternator
Oh and Mac, it does have an alternator. He gave me the wiring harness. It's 4 amp and even has a rectifier if I want to use it for small lights and such.
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I really want to avoid using a bracket. Everything I read says I am not supposed to trailer with a motor attached to a bracket, so that is no good for me. I have enough to deal with at the launch.
I've done it.
But I built a bracket for the bracket.
lol
It was another bracket that reinforced things for trailering.
A lot of BS to make things work.
It worked pretty good.
I still hate brackets however.
Glad you're happy with your purchase Geoff.
Also that it has an alternator.
My buddy has been using a Yamaha 9hp 4-stroke for 4 yrs that doesn't have one.
And he's run the main battery dead a few times.
I jumped him out in the lake once.
It was also rope start - no electric starter.
Yamahas typically start easy.
But that one was cold blooded and you had to pull your jimmies off to get it running.
He just bought a new one 3 weeks ago......with T&T, alternator, electric start, and remote throttle.
Took him 4 yrs to learn though.
I love the guy, but he's a stubborn dope sometimes.
:cookoo:
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I remote camp for two weeks out of the year, miles from help or cell service, so I really would like a backup motor as well that isn't electric.
very sound reasoning
:thumbup_smilie:
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He doesn't need this on his boat Boon.
He has plenty of room to mount the kicker on the transom next to the big motor.
These brackets are needed if the boat is an I/O
His is an outboard.
I've used them many times over the years and they simply get the kicker too far back and away from the boat for my taste.
Used them on outboard transoms and I/O transoms.
On an I/O no way around using one.
I don't care for them because it increases the chances of getting your downrigger cable or fishing line caught in the motor (don't ask).
Exactly.. lol's he don't need it was not sure if he was buying a 2 stroke short shaft thay why I threw it out there.. four stroke long shaft no need for it.. but ya you can use them on boats with a out board not just meant for i/o motor cause if you got to short of a motor shaft you want to lower the motor a tad closer to water.. so it does not cavitate as bad
@jethro look up the motor tie bar for the motor to motor hook up.. they sell them at cabelas this way you can steer from your consel mounted to your boat.. if you can't find it let me know cause I will find you it makes life a lot easier..
And good point on the electriAL hook up for charging mac..
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This is if you don't want to pay for the panther electro steer this is a cheaper alternative.. the tie bar makes it so you can steer off the concel steering ..
https://www.cabelas.com/product/boating/boating-outboards-accessories/boat-steering/pc/104794380/c/104752980/sc/104602680/auxiliary-motor-connector-rods/700014.uts?slotId=0 (https://www.cabelas.com/product/boating/boating-outboards-accessories/boat-steering/pc/104794380/c/104752980/sc/104602680/auxiliary-motor-connector-rods/700014.uts?slotId=0)
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This is if you don't want to pay for the panther electro steer this is a cheaper alternative.. the tie bar makes it so you can steer off the concel steering ..
https://www.cabelas.com/product/boating/boating-outboards-accessories/boat-steering/pc/104794380/c/104752980/sc/104602680/auxiliary-motor-connector-rods/700014.uts?slotId=0 (https://www.cabelas.com/product/boating/boating-outboards-accessories/boat-steering/pc/104794380/c/104752980/sc/104602680/auxiliary-motor-connector-rods/700014.uts?slotId=0)
I don't think I'll be able to use that kind of steering connector. My kicker needs to go on the starboard side of my main due to the swim platform, and the steering linkage is on the far port side. It looks like I'll have to use the e z steer connector which is much more expensive. I'm wondering if it's just worth it to get the electro steere now since I don't think I can use the cheaper steering linkage. I still haven't ruled out coming up with my own Mickey Mouse type idea though!
I did run the motor for a little bit tonight and I must say it is shaky. It was hard to get the steering tension shaft wingnut tight enough so that it wouldn't turn on its own. It also didn't seem to idle down too well. It's going to need some adjustment, maybe some seafoam I don't know. Not sure what the spec is for the lowest rpms it's it's able to idle, but it kept stalling when I idled down low. Was hard to maintain a low idle speed without it wandering. I'll spend some time with it tomorrow and see how it comes.
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I don't think I'll be able to use that kind of steering connector. My kicker needs to go on the starboard side of my main due to the swim platform, and the steering linkage is on the far port side. It looks like I'll have to use the e z steer connector which is much more expensive. I'm wondering if it's just worth it to get the electro steere now since I don't think I can use the cheaper steering linkage. I still haven't ruled out coming up with my own Mickey Mouse type idea though!
I did run the motor for a little bit tonight and I must say it is shaky. It was hard to get the steering tension shaft wingnut tight enough so that it wouldn't turn on its own. It also didn't seem to idle down too well. It's going to need some adjustment, maybe some seafoam I don't know. Not sure what the spec is for the lowest rpms it's it's able to idle, but it kept stalling when I idled down low. Was hard to maintain a low idle speed without it wandering. I'll spend some time with it tomorrow and see how it comes.
Less aggressive prop??
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I would suggest making your own steering linkage if you can?? 400 for the electro steer just is not worth it to me for some reason?? Also could put in a stick steer cable steer system ?? Reason I say it it's hard to run around like a chicken with its head cut off with a full load of passanger front to back front to back .. that's were the stick steer or some kind of linkage would help .. by the way I suggest trying to change the prop to a less aggressive thrust prop then get a troll plate backing off a screw don't help. Also could try mini drift socks like minkotas or some thing small but better to troll with the thrust you got now on the kicker.. then to idle down and foul engine!!
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I would suggest making your own steering linkage if you can??
Indeed, I am on it today. I'll have to look into props, but the key is how slow it will troll with this little 6. Also curious about cutting down a prop as mentioned above. Never knew you could do that. I am going to the boat store today, they oughta be really happy with me. Last year they had to deal with a bunch of parts on a dumb Crestliner that I bought. I'm going to see if they can get me side and rear curtains for the fisherman top that I have for the boat. They'll be getting some money from me this season for sure.
Switching gears a little bit, what do people think about these track systems that you can buy for mounting all your goodies? I'm somewhat of the impression that I know where things need to go for permanent mounting. And let's not forget this boat is a 2003, it's not exactly a beauty queen, but it's pretty freakin sweet. Would you guys just drill into the gunwales with your downriggers and rod holders? Or would you buy the track and mount stuff to that, which seems really expensive but much better aesthetically. I don't know what to do, it seems like 36 inches of that stuff on each side of the boat is going to cost me hundreds per side.
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Just drill and be happy about it
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I don't think I'll be able to use that kind of steering connector. My kicker needs to go on the starboard side of my main due to the swim platform, and the steering linkage is on the far port side. It looks like I'll have to use the e z steer connector which is much more expensive. I'm wondering if it's just worth it to get the electro steere now since I don't think I can use the cheaper steering linkage. I still haven't ruled out coming up with my own Mickey Mouse type idea though!
I did run the motor for a little bit tonight and I must say it is shaky. It was hard to get the steering tension shaft wingnut tight enough so that it wouldn't turn on its own. It also didn't seem to idle down too well. It's going to need some adjustment, maybe some seafoam I don't know. Not sure what the spec is for the lowest rpms it's it's able to idle, but it kept stalling when I idled down low. Was hard to maintain a low idle speed without it wandering. I'll spend some time with it tomorrow and see how it comes.
The rod Boon sent you the link to will work.
I have the rod and it works.
But I never use it.
I tightened the steering tension so it stays straight.
And use the ipilot on the Terova to steer.
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My steering tension doesnt seem to stay tight enough. I used vice grips but then I got scared I was going to break something. The motor still shook to the left at low idle.
The bar that Boon linked seems to say its 24 in Long. It's well over that from my steering bracket bolt to the kicker handle. I dont see how it would work but im going to the boat shop today and will ask them. I know for sure I don't want to move that swim platform / ladder.
I'm glad boon said drill away, I'm a little nervous to, but I think that's the way I'm going to go. Got to be kidding me with some of the prices of that track stuff from Big John or wherever. I'm not doing that.
(https://s18.postimg.org/h85234gbp/20180331_092015.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/h85234gbp/)
(https://s18.postimg.org/6lb8xpnlx/20180331_092019.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/6lb8xpnlx/)
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Move the kicker closer - the 24" bar will work.
After drilling holes in your transom, be sure to seal the wood inside.
Get some decent epoxy and use a small paintbrush to get it in there and coat the ID of the hole.
Then also use a good marine silicone sealer on the bolts and flat washers.
Use LARGE flat washers to distribute the weight.
It's a small motor, but still no reason not to do the job correctly.
BTW, somebody on here warned you it would shake.
8)
If you want to lock it straight forward use a bungee cord.
2 stainless steel eyebolts into the flooring below and to each side of the tiller.
Again, seal your holes and use silicine.
Then hook the bungee to one eyebolt and wrap it arounf the tiller twice and the attach the other hook to the other eyebolt.
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(https://s14.postimg.org/l9zqriynx/image_160181.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/l9zqriynx/)
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BTW, somebody on here warned you it would shake.
Don't worry Mac! You can say I told you so, I'm a big boy I can take it! LOLOL :rotflol:
Oh that makes a lot more sense. I thought that the linkage needed to go to the first bolt on the hydraulic cable or.. whatever you want to call it. Gonna order that bar, it's cheap. Need to order some rod holder bases so I don't have to take them off of my little boat, and good to go.
I can't wait to do some fishing!
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You're doing a great job Geoff.
I love working on my boat.
As a matter of fact, it's time to head out to the garage.
That TrollMaster won't install itself.
BTW, mine is insulated and heated.
I'm in shorts and a T right now.
It's 45 outside, but 72 in the garage.
Later!
8)
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You're doing a great job Geoff.
I love working on my boat.
As a matter of fact, it's time to head out to the garage.
That TrollMaster won't install itself.
BTW, mine is insulated and heated.
I'm in shorts and a T right now.
It's 45 outside, but 72 in the garage.
Later!
8)
Well, I was in a t-shirt all day, it was so nice outside! Wish I had a garage.
I went to the Big Chain fishing store, I'm sure you know the one I'm talkin of, and found Tite Loc rod holders. They seemed pretty high-quality, very adjustable, and not super duper expensive, so I bought two of them and two extra mounts. Anybody have any real-world opinions of these things?
http://www.titelok.com/product-p/rh-5710.htm
If they work out I will probably buy two more of them, then with my downriggers I'll have a total of 6 rod holders on the boat to start with, and 8 places that I could put them. Trying to figure out the locations is proving difficult though!
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I would price making my own versus buying a piece of threaded rod some turn buckles same size as threaded rod and some as eye bolts same size as thread rod and make a tie rod out of those .. use some jam nuts and a way to mount from kicker via a bolt hole..either by mounting plate or a driled hole .. to the main motor via a bolt hole.. then use a bolt threw the eye bolt and some washes that make a pivot point ..form the eye bolt .. I would use nylon washers if you can find then and some nylock nut and nylock jam nuts .. any how I dI'd not say drill away it was some else.. but they are correct.. fir the gunnel tops me I have a hard time drilling transom for a finder mount what I did is got some sem brand pannel bound and a piece of abs, poly carbonate ,etc...drilled and counter sunk bolt heads then glued the abs to the boat with sem pannel bond so the threads bolts stuck out for the fish finder transduecer to mount to.. low holes in a hurl can cause problems if not sealed right.. any how put as many high up holes as you want as long as above the waterline.. I think amish outfitter had a track system too along with Bretts and tex Trax systems nor sure if tite-loc rod holder brand make tracks too ?? So do some googleing.. any how boat looks good now carefull how holes you drill don't want to wreck it .. also what about a propane tank holder and a heater?? A lot of winter boaters like jet boat have that set up for fishing rivers for steel head.. maybe even a heater mount?? If your going to do the canvas might be worth going with a therMal canvas with a blanket batting layer sewen inSide of the canvas.. don't under estimate the fall bite and the early spring like right now! People even dodge ice floats around here to catch fish.
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My buddy Paul has Titelocs
They work fine.
I’m not a fan of the Allen screw mount arrangement, but as I said, they work. And they are affordable like you mentioned.
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.. don't under estimate the fall bite and the early spring like right now! People even dodge ice floats around here to catch fish.
Oh I am all about trying to get some early and late season fishing! That's the whole reason I have this boat. I've been fishing in Maine every ice out in my little 14 foot side console, jealous of the guys that have walkthrough windshild hulls with full enclosures they can stand in and stay bone dry. They pop out of the curtains to make an adjustment or catch a fish then duck back under cover. A few years ago it rained almost the entire week, high temperatures in the 40s, and I'm fishing in rain gear in an open boat. I mean I had a Bimini top, but still it's not like staying dry in a full enclosure. Now I'll be the guy that others are jealous of!
I have a portable Buddy Heater that I use ice fishing, but I think it has a tip over sensor that will get affected on the water. I have a nice small 11lb bulk tank that I use which will be perfect on the boat. I also have a really sweet Weber gas grill I'll use on the boat. What's a safe cabin heater for on the water use? Hopefully not something too expensive.
I am definitely going to try and rig my own kicker linkage. I have a nifty idea, I'll post pics if it comes out ok and works.
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Mr heater cooker blinder heater I will get a link for one for you to look at.. I know menards around here has them cheap and with the 11%rebate they give every now and then helps sweeten the deal.. the reason for the heater cooker is it don't tip over saftey but always be carefull that why I monted it to the boat and ran a hose to the tank also keep in mind there is no ods on them either ods is oxygen depletion sensor . They put out a good 15000 btus and should keep you plenty warm I would use a hose my self to that propane tank and a filter.. with out the filter it won't run..
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The heater I am talking about ..
http://www.landmsupply.com/department/home-improvement/heating-and-cooling/propane-heaters/mr-heater-heatercooker?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=google_base&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhoLWBRD9ARIsADIRaxR4mhEkLrCCCtXJIMjstDD-o2FPPoYKkaU6qMkNKWuTRfUtGJcgU9QaAjOrEALw_wcB (http://www.landmsupply.com/department/home-improvement/heating-and-cooling/propane-heaters/mr-heater-heatercooker?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=google_base&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhoLWBRD9ARIsADIRaxR4mhEkLrCCCtXJIMjstDD-o2FPPoYKkaU6qMkNKWuTRfUtGJcgU9QaAjOrEALw_wcB)
Seen a few guy mount them to this distribution tree and just mount the tank so it won't tip over..
https://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/mr-heater-f271741-30-inch-15-inch-propane-distribution-all-in-one-post?google=1&CAWELAID=230005750000060205&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=20078458691&CATCI=pla-41477300408&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhoLWBRD9ARIsADIRaxTZ5m3P_Owtn37WU0lJ4VTQKPAuiXgnBi_smTlqk6gS3Nd4EoqpxW8aAlzCEALw_wcB (https://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/mr-heater-f271741-30-inch-15-inch-propane-distribution-all-in-one-post?google=1&CAWELAID=230005750000060205&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=20078458691&CATCI=pla-41477300408&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhoLWBRD9ARIsADIRaxTZ5m3P_Owtn37WU0lJ4VTQKPAuiXgnBi_smTlqk6gS3Nd4EoqpxW8aAlzCEALw_wcB)
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Geoff -
Over on FB a couple guys posted there is a sale going at their local Cabelas on Mercury kicker motors.
In MN too.
They said like 45% off.
Local flyers in the mail or something
It's until 4/4/18
You might want to check your local cabelas just in case.
Not the Pro Kickers, but all good tiller 4-strokes.
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9.9M is $2625
$2137 savings.
Of course that's off list.
Still..............
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Bass pro always runs the 6 the 8 and the 9.9 four strokes for similar prices just a heads up on the black Friday deals if looking for a bigger kicker by the wsy bass pro had a sale for easter I think on them motors to ?? Might want to check it out, I maybe mistaken??
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Boon - Black Friday is day after Thanksgiving.
Long time to wait for a sale that "might" happen.
lol
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Also remember guys that Tohatsu makes all Merc small 4-strokes.
Food for thought.
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Boon - Black Friday is day after Thanksgiving.
Long time to wait for a sale that "might" happen.
lol
Oh I know.. any way if looking for a different motor? west marine list they still have the 9.9 in a few different versions I think the lowest priced model is $2,459.99 for a 9.9 hp .. some are electric start some are elh as in electric long shaft handle tiller and some are pro kickers and some are manual start eith a tiller handle.. amy how keep a eye on site they may run a few on sale??
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Geoff -
Over on FB a couple guys posted there is a sale going at their local Cabelas on Mercury kicker motors.
In MN too.
They said like 45% off.
Local flyers in the mail or something
It's until 4/4/18
You might want to check your local cabelas just in case.
Not the Pro Kickers, but all good tiller 4-strokes.
Thanks Mac, but I think I'm done spending money for a little bit here. I'll have to make the 6 work. I have an appointment early next week to bring the boat to the canvas guy so he can make me side and rear curtains. That's the last money I'm going to be able to spend for a while, unless I sacrifice gas money for the boat and truck for spring fishing trips. That ain't going to happen!
Maybe early next season I'll sell the 6 and move into a 9.9.
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Maybe early next season I'll sell the 6 and move into a 9.9.
If that's the case watch next spring for the spring fishing classic at bass pro and watch there adds for a slight chance for a 9.9m on sale??
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Also food for thought I would also look in to a troll plate which I never liked but I think mac likes?? Not sure of that and a new prop with maybe a different pitch if needed?? Or go with troll bags also know as drift socks.. and repitch with a replacement prop?? As needed?? but for sure don't adjust down the idle screw!! it will cause engine fouling .. here is some props to think about.. at link below.. by the way I like the drift socks cause as your being pitched around your speed stay way more consisten.. when being tossed around by waves.. then a troll plate.. cause the boat will pull and steady it's self more consistently then with the troll plate.. you really got to see it to know the difference.. using drift bags = large area versus a small prop cover= small area .. the water resistance helps greatfully.. when dragging drift bags tied from the front of boat on each side.. if smaller motor use smaller bags if you have to and high tHurst prop..
http://www.rubexprops.com/boat-propellers/Mercury/?motor=A0060A&ver=a&model=6HP FourStroke (12 Spline) (http://www.rubexprops.com/boat-propellers/Mercury/?motor=A0060A&ver=a&model=6HP FourStroke (12 Spline))
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More info on props
https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Selecting-a-Propeller (https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Selecting-a-Propeller)
https://www.tohatsu.com/accessories/prop.html (https://www.tohatsu.com/accessories/prop.html)
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Just a thunk
Before spending a lot more money, I'd actually put the boat in the water when you can and try it under different circumstances/conditions. That way you can figure out what YOU do and don't like.
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Also food for thought I would also look in to a troll plate which I never liked but I think mac likes??[/url]
Mac hates the trolling plates is what I gathered. Said it makes for poor boat handling and that makes sense to me.
I have thought about another prop, but don't really know what is on there now. Nothing is printed or stamped on the outside of the prop for me to see.
Just a thunk
Before spending a lot more money, I'd actually put the boat in the water when you can and try it under different circumstances/conditions. That way you can figure out what YOU do and don't like.
That's just it. I want to get this boat wet and motor around to see what kind of performance I get. Hopefully I can get a quote on the side and rear curtains, that's the only thing I have on the list that absolutely has to get done.
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(https://s14.postimg.org/l9zqriynx/image_160181.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/l9zqriynx/)
Mac, what are you connected to here in this picture? The connection on the main engine? Do I have to fasten to the cowling?
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Mac hates the trolling plates is what I gathered. Said it makes for poor boat handling and that makes sense to me.
I have thought about another prop, but don't really know what is on there now. Nothing is printed or stamped on the outside of the prop for me to see.
That's just it. I want to get this boat wet and motor around to see what kind of performance I get. Hopefully I can get a quote on the side and rear curtains, that's the only thing I have on the list that absolutely has to get done.
I think it's either a 7 or a 8 pitch that comes standard but you will have to email the company to be sure.. so be ready with serial number and model numbers etc.. and for sure I know your no dummy put it in the water and give it a test run first that why I did not say to do a test run seemed a little reptitive or overly said cause you should automatically think to..
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Mac, what are you connected to here in this picture? The connection on the main engine? Do I have to fasten to the cowling?
that's not my boat.
That was a picture I scarfed from the web.
Hang tight.
I'll go out and snap some pics up close for you.
And, I do NOT like trolling plates.
Used them on a few boats.
They blow!!!
Kicker is the only way to go.
Of course you will always get stubborn (cheap) people that will argue. lol
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Here they are.
No rod.
Couldn't find it and to be honest, never use it because I have the ipilot.
And was wearing my bunny slippers so didn't want to climb into the boat and crawl around looking for the rod in the storage compartments.
But you can see where the ball joints are mounted on each motor.
(https://s14.postimg.org/bxni6aanh/IMG_2268.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/bxni6aanh/)
(https://s14.postimg.org/nmrhu99bx/IMG_2269.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/nmrhu99bx/)
(https://s14.postimg.org/eez9dkhp9/IMG_2270.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/eez9dkhp9/)
(https://s14.postimg.org/q4391jo3h/IMG_2271.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/q4391jo3h/)
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the trolling plate is just plain dangerouse on my boat ;D
jethro, its iceout fishing coming up, just put some rod holders on the boat and you are good to go. theres plenty of time to decide where you are going to put things
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Thanks Mac, but I think I'm done spending money for a little bit here.
Now THAT'S funny!!!
You do know that boat is an acronym for Break Out Another Thousand. ;D
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Now THAT'S funny!!!
You do know that boat is an acronym for Break Out Another Thousand. ;D
Yeah good point
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the trolling plate is just plain dangerouse on my boat ;D
jethro, its iceout fishing coming up, just put some rod holders on the boat and you are good to go. theres plenty of time to decide where you are going to put things
But I gotta decide where to put the rod holders!! And to figure that out, I have to figure out where the riggers are going! All my rod holders and swivel mounts will be here by this weekend, so it's gonna be drill time Saturday...
The good news is that the canvas shops around me are all booked through June, so getting my side and rear curtains is probably not going to happen this year. That's a big chunk of money I don't have to spend.
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Geoff - I mount riggers as far stern as possible, with still being able to operate them easily and safely.
Do yourself a favor and look up Cannon Retro-Ease.
They are worth every penny IMHO.
Anyway, getting them far back minimizes the possibility of getting that downrigger cable, or your fishing line, caught in the prop.
I've done it and it isn't fun.
I know guys will run them more forward and get away with it, but why chance it?
I've been running downriggers since the late 70's, on a LOT of boats.
I have known a boat-load of charter captains too.
Even working with some on their boats.
Mount them where you want, but please remember I warned you when the 150# stainless steel cable gets wrapped tighter than a well digger's butthole around your prop shaft.
(make sure you have a good strong set of cutters aboard)
;)
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^^^this^^^^
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Iceout in a couple weeks.....I'm sure you will be ready with the rest................ ;)
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i run 2 riggers off the back and two about 6 feet forward. the 2 forward are more problematic. if you fish close to structures, ledges etc, dont use the two forward ones. open water i dont have a problem with it and some times just drop daisy chains down off the forward ones and fish off the back ones. my downriggers tip up and swivel, almost never use the swivel feature. the back two corners outproduce the forward ones. i did make a ss hoop that circles the kicker prop to help the downrigger cables not wrap the prop. its amazing how fast trouble happens at 2 mph ;D my fishlander down riggers all have rod holders but the salty downeast holders get most of the work, 4 saltys off the back, 2 saltys off the rod jiggers, and 2 saltys over head each side for the 2 jigger boards. i like the saltys over head and horizontal pointing out towards the boards, less chance of a planer rope wrapping aback around the boat and hitting a vertical rod. i like the satys near the downriggers as well, i can use my flyrod setups with those and the down riggers. so theres 8 fishable saltys and 8 standard downrigger rod holders, plus a couple more and the rod storage has 9 more hoders. i dont think you can have enough, i have two tie up sections for rod storage as well. have new curtains made last spring but once the boat got in the water they never had time for the snap mount install, need to get that done before the boats in the water this spring
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Geoff - I mount riggers as far stern as possible, with still being able to operate them easily and safely.
Do yourself a favor and look up Cannon Retro-Ease.
They are worth every penny IMHO.
Anyway, getting them far back minimizes the possibility of getting that downrigger cable, or your fishing line, caught in the prop.
I've done it and it isn't fun.
I know guys will run them more forward and get away with it, but why chance it?
I've been running downriggers since the late 70's, on a LOT of boats.
I have known a boat-load of charter captains too.
Even working with some on their boats.
Mount them where you want, but please remember I warned you when the 150# stainless steel cable gets wrapped tighter than a well digger's butthole around your prop shaft.
(make sure you have a good strong set of cutters aboard)
;)
I have ball retrievers on my riggers, they are awesome.
My boat has a full 100" beam. Does that improve things any? I want to mount my riggers about 4' forward of the stern because there is a rear casting platform/seats that I'd like to avoid having to stand on while operating the riggers. I can only imagine what kind of mess the cable would make in the prop. :o
If they need to go right at the rear corners I will need to fabricate something because the recessed cleats are right there at the stern. Maybe a trolling bar but I would rather not f possible.
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I have ball retrievers on my riggers, they are awesome.
My boat has a full 100" beam. Does that improve things any? I want to mount my riggers about 4' forward of the stern because there is a rear casting platform/seats that I'd like to avoid having to stand on while operating the riggers. I can only imagine what kind of mess the cable would make in the prop. :o
If they need to go right at the rear corners I will need to fabricate something because the recessed cleats are right there at the stern. Maybe a trolling bar but I would rather not f possible.
As you can see, mine aren't all the way back.
For the same reason you mention.
The stearn casting platform.
But when I run them, I angle them rearward at a 45.
This way, the cables are out back, and still out to the side a bit spreading my offering.
My 25' Sportcraft actually had 6 foot booms on the Cannon downriggers for the same reason.
And I ran those at 30 degrees.
I wrapped a cable on my kicker once.
Only once.
Was enough for me to make sure that it NEVER hapopens again.
Totally ruined my day.
What a mess.
(https://s14.postimg.org/gmmuallp9/IMG_4678.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/gmmuallp9/)
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Well, I have boom extensions for both of my Penn riggers, I guess I'll be using them although I don't like to. I also have two swivel mounts coming so I'll mount the forward mounts on them and set it up so I can run them 45 degrees off the gunwale.
This picture you can see where I am going to mount them, about 3 or 4 feet up the gunwale so I can be standing on the bottom deck when I'm setting lines.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Sports/Boats/i-4B39HsT/0/72a04591/L/20180403_141646-L.jpg)
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:thumbup_smilie:
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So yesterday I had to go to the boat store to pick up some replacement handles for hatches that are broken. While I was there I wanted to pick up some stainless, sharp point screws to mount my Tite-Loc rod holders, but the parts guy told me I should use through bolts with nuts and washers. The gunwales on the boat are beefed up to 1/8" aluminum and I thought just drilling pilot holes and impact driving sharp points would work fine. I will certainly mount my downriggers with through bolts but it won't be easy since the gunwale is all foamed. And the rear rod holders? No idea how I would do through bolts anyway since it's like 7 feet down the rod locker. What is typical for mounting rod holders?
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Through bolts with large washers or backing plates.
With the downriggers, backing plates for sure.
Same with planer board masts.
Aftentimes a pain to do, but do it.
Fishing rods, reels, tackle, and the rod holder can get quite expensive when it goes over the side.
For stainless steel fasteners, 316ss works best.
Especially for you with the salt water.
321 works too, but isn't as common.
Don't compromise!!!!
McMaster Carr is very good place to get this in bulk.
And it arrives in 1-2 days typically.
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Ok then, looks like I will be finding a way to take the trim bolster off to access the back of the gunwale. This boat stuff is lotsa work!
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Ok then, looks like I will be finding a way to take the trim bolster off to access the back of the gunwale. This boat stuff is lotsa work!
Ahhhh.......... but so much fun.
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i started with a bolt kit at a marina supply and have been adding to it ever since, bolts screws, fender washers, those tappered screw washers, locks, you cant have too much. buy the electric wire in bulk, electrical 4 plug outdoor plug boxes both side of the boat, after a while you have a workshop setup just for the boat :D i try to do the majority of the work in the fall now, then let it slide thru the fishing season. keep notes during the season on what needs to be fixed
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i started with a bolt kit at a marina supply and have been adding to it ever since, bolts screws, fender washers, those tappered screw washers, locks, you cant have too much. buy the electric wire in bulk, electrical 4 plug outdoor plug boxes both side of the boat, after a while you have a workshop setup just for the boat :D i try to do the majority of the work in the fall now, then let it slide thru the fishing season. keep notes during the season on what needs to be fixed
boom!
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My recommendation is to through bolt any rod holders / down riggers. Use stainless steel bolts, washers, and use nylon locking stainless nuts.
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Yep, I'm reading you guys loud and clear. I suppose do it once, do it right. This could be my forever boat after all.
Another question.. has anyone had an enclosure made? Or any kind of custom canvas work? I have the original bimini top with side and rear zippers that was never used. After long searching I found a canvas guy that can actually fit me in within 4-6 weeks. He has given me a baseline starting price of $300 per side curtain and $400 for the rear curtain. Does this sound reasonable? I know any kind of custom work like this is not cheap, just making sure I am not making an impulse decision. I've fished in an open skiff for years now wearing raingear and gloves, I could manage one more season of that if I had to.
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i think i paid 500 total for 2 side curtains and they were pretty simple ones, i did make them so the tops zipped off. gave him the old ones that were slightly small from shrinkage, he made them up without the snaps. i later took the new curtains and marked the snaps and which side i wanted the snaps. he installed them but i have not installed the curtains yet (i went with toggles instead of regular snaps, the kind the end turns 90 degrees. wishing i had time to get them on last year but i waited too long to get it off the lake. mine were really pretty simple to make
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This could be my forever boat after all.
nope
8)
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Another question.. has anyone had an enclosure made? Or any kind of custom canvas work? I have the original bimini top with side and rear zippers that was never used. After long searching I found a canvas guy that can actually fit me in within 4-6 weeks. He has given me a baseline starting price of $300 per side curtain and $400 for the rear curtain. Does this sound reasonable? I know any kind of custom work like this is not cheap, just making sure I am not making an impulse decision. I've fished in an open skiff for years now wearing raingear and gloves, I could manage one more season of that if I had to.
The canvas on this boat cost me over $2000
(https://s14.postimg.org/ia8o3j9u5/DSC00673.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ia8o3j9u5/)
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Here is my 21' Sylvan.
That canvas ran almost $1000............back in 1991
(https://s14.postimg.org/qfqq1vdkd/DSC01487.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/qfqq1vdkd/)
This help?
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Here is my 21' Sylvan.
That canvas ran almost $1000............back in 1991
(https://s14.postimg.org/qfqq1vdkd/DSC01487.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/qfqq1vdkd/)
This help?
Yes it does, thanks. I already have the bimini and top, it's just side and rear curtains, but I think it's about right. I told him to put me in his schedule.
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nope
8)
:cursing:
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:cursing:
you never know, ive been in the same boat since 1992 8)
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nope
8)
A man can dream can’t he? Oh wait it’s probably the dreaming that would get him in trouble....
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This is my new last boat....
(https://s9.postimg.org/gc90pfv5n/20180227_150644.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/gc90pfv5n/)
Funny my wife agrees with me
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This is my new last boat....
(https://s9.postimg.org/gc90pfv5n/20180227_150644.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/gc90pfv5n/)
Funny my wife agrees with me
What time Saturday!?
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Yep, I'm reading you guys loud and clear. I suppose do it once, do it right. This could be my forever boat after all.
Another question.. has anyone had an enclosure made? Or any kind of custom canvas work? I have the original bimini top with side and rear zippers that was never used. After long searching I found a canvas guy that can actually fit me in within 4-6 weeks. He has given me a baseline starting price of $300 per side curtain and $400 for the rear curtain. Does this sound reasonable? I know any kind of custom work like this is not cheap, just making sure I am not making an impulse decision. I've fished in an open skiff for years now wearing raingear and gloves, I could manage one more season of that if I had to.
I have never used my rear curtain. The side ones are nice early season.
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I have never used my rear curtain. The side ones are nice early season.
same here.
at least very rarely.
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I have never used my rear curtain. The side ones are nice early season.
No kidding. Maybe I'll just have the sides made up then. Rear curtain must get in the way fishing big time anyway.
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No kidding. Maybe I'll just have the sides made up then. Rear curtain must get in the way fishing big time anyway.
my back curtains are tied to the side and open 99.9 percent of the time, when im using them pretty much everyone else is off the lake ;D my back curtains came with the boat, 1990, still in good shape which shows how much they get used. they are blue, my new side curtains are dark green, was not worth upgrading them
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Boat is registered as of a half hour ago. I don't know how much fishing I will do, but I plan on getting it wet this weekend.
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Good luck and have fun.
That is a nice rig.
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Boat is registered as of a half hour ago. I don't know how much fishing I will do, but I plan on getting it wet this weekend.
thawed out the garden hose Geoff?
:w00t:
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thawed out the garden hose Geoff?
:w00t:
I've already had it running on the hose! It's time for a sea trial!
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I've already had it running on the hose! It's time for a sea trial!
Not until you take a safe boating course
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Not until you take a safe boating course
I've done that already, it's the law here in NH to operate anything over 25 horse, so I took a class a while ago. Got a 97 which I think means I only missed one question! I've been around boats my whole life, my father has owned a bluewater sailboat for as long as I remember. This is the new toy he just got, we are fishing the salt with it this year. Southport 30, 10 foot beam. Nice vessel. First boat I've run with a bow thruster. It's like cheating...
(https://s18.postimg.org/o27lajy8l/40131.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/o27lajy8l/)
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good man
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Nice ride, gentleman fishing!
(https://s18.postimg.org/o27lajy8l/40131.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/o27lajy8l/)
[/quote]
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I've done that already, it's the law here in NH to operate anything over 25 horse, so I took a class a while ago. Got a 97 which I think means I only missed one question! I've been around boats my whole life, my father has owned a bluewater sailboat for as long as I remember. This is the new toy he just got, we are fishing the salt with it this year. Southport 30, 10 foot beam. Nice vessel. First boat I've run with a bow thruster. It's like cheating...
(https://s18.postimg.org/o27lajy8l/40131.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/o27lajy8l/)
Don't even bother to tell them you have more than enough qualifications in another state, they won't accept it. I've been there and done that. Ended up getting a lifetime certification for nation wide certification.
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Don't even bother to tell them you have more than enough qualifications in another state, they won't accept it. I've been there and done that. Ended up getting a lifetime certification for nation wide certification.
good point
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Don't even bother to tell them you have more than enough qualifications in another state, they won't accept it. I've been there and done that. Ended up getting a lifetime certification for nation wide certification.
I know, NH is completely idiotic about the boaters education certs. Royal pain in the you know what. Basically means they don't offer reciprocity if you think about it. I'm surprised Maine allows us in NH reciprocity with our registrations, but I'm sure glad they do because the fishing, scenery and overall experience is way better anyway.
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I know, NH is completely idiotic about the boaters education certs. Royal pain in the you know what. Basically means they don't offer reciprocity if you think about it. I'm surprised Maine allows us in NH reciprocity with our registrations, but I'm sure glad they do because the fishing, scenery and overall experience is way better anyway.
If you go to The NASBLA Web site you can take the intire test on line through another state (Florida is one) and it is good in New Hampshire and all but 2 or 3 other states, but if you take it through New Hampshire, I think?? it is only good in New Hampshire.
Maine doesn't care to much about your saftey, they just want you to bring your money.
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Ok, anyway, back on topic about this project...
Obviously I have to use nuts and bolts rather than self tapping screws to install my rod holders and downrigger mounts. However, there are few areas where there is no way I have any access. Do I really need to cut open an access hole in the aluminum? Seems excessive but my searches online suggest installing an access panel in the boat. Im hoping that is more applicable on glass boats. My question is, what are people's experiences with rivnuts, or well nuts? What options do I have? This big, double wall aluminum boat is built very rugged, full 1/8" gunwales for mounting gear. It seems excessive to have to cut an access panel into the gunwale. I just can't seem to find what strength rivnuts or well nuts have. I want the rod holders and downriggers to be as solid as possible.
Advice please! I'll have pics up at some point, which I figure I owe you guys for all the help you've been giving me, lol :laugh:
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My question is, what are people's experiences with rivnuts, or well nuts?
they will pull out.
Been there, done that.
Cut the access hole.
Then install a cover plate.
https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=boat+access+cover+plate+images&FORM=HDRSC2 (https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=boat+access+cover+plate+images&FORM=HDRSC2)
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If you go to The NASBLA Web site you can take the intire test on line through another state (Florida is one) and it is good in New Hampshire and all but 2 or 3 other states, but if you take it through New Hampshire, I think?? it is only good in New Hampshire.
Maine doesn't care to much about your saftey, they just want you to bring your money.
Is my New Hampshire Safe Boating Certificate accepted elsewhere?
For visiting boaters, all states, territories, and provinces will recognize boating education cards that meet NASBLA requirements and Canadian Pleasure Craft Operator Cards that meet Transport Canada’s requirements. (This is known as “reciprocity.”)
On the front of my NH certificate it says... This is a NASBLA APPROVED course. So I would guess it is indeed reciprocal to any state with that requirement.
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Has anyone ever been asked for their certificate? I've had mine since 2004 and have never been asked?
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Stianless steel toggle bolts and as with any stainless fastener put just a touch of never sieze on it
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they will pull out.
Been there, done that.
Cut the access hole.
Then install a cover plate.
https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=boat+access+cover+plate+images&FORM=HDRSC2 (https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=boat+access+cover+plate+images&FORM=HDRSC2)
How did I know that you would say that? I figured it had to be whichever way is much harder to do... lol
Will proceed with jigsaw work... dammit
Is my New Hampshire Safe Boating Certificate accepted elsewhere?
For visiting boaters, all states, territories, and provinces will recognize boating education cards that meet NASBLA requirements and Canadian Pleasure Craft Operator Cards that meet Transport Canada’s requirements. (This is known as “reciprocity.”)
On the front of my NH certificate it says... This is a NASBLA APPROVED course. So I would guess it is indeed reciprocal to any state with that requirement.
I asked my instructor (my NH instructor keep in mind) this exact same question, he told me it matters how you take the course because there's two different ways to get the certificate... The first one is to take the course online at home and then once you're done with that you can schedule the in person testing- the proctored exam. The second is to take a class with an actual instructor, after which they provide you the test. On the back of my safe boating certificate card it says "Certification Source: Classroom". I was told that is what makes it nationally accepted or not, the fact of taking it online or in a classroom, the later being nationally accepted. I am going to treat it as such until told otherwise, but of course you may want to call the law enforcement local to where you are visiting to confirm, because my NH instructor could be wrong for all I know.
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How did I know that you would say that? I figured it had to be whichever way is much harder to do... lol
Will proceed with jigsaw work... dammit
Yea, I've drilled holes in and cut up many boats over the years.
Sorry it wasn't what you wanted to hear Geoff.
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Even stainless will react with aluminun over time.
Glue some wood pieces to the boat with g-flex epoxy and screw your rod holder to that.
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Ok, anyway, back on topic about this project...
Obviously I have to use nuts and bolts rather than self tapping screws to install my rod holders and downrigger mounts. However, there are few areas where there is no way I have any access. Do I really need to cut open an access hole in the aluminum? Seems excessive but my searches online suggest installing an access panel in the boat. Im hoping that is more applicable on glass boats. My question is, what are people's experiences with rivnuts, or well nuts? What options do I have? This big, double wall aluminum boat is built very rugged, full 1/8" gunwales for mounting gear. It seems excessive to have to cut an access panel into the gunwale. I just can't seem to find what strength rivnuts or well nuts have. I want the rod holders and downriggers to be as solid as possible.
Advice please! I'll have pics up at some point, which I figure I owe you guys for all the help you've been giving me, lol :laugh:
Your going to have to find some one to cut a plate of aluminum like 1/4 to 3/8 thick to back the rod holder mostly if useing dipsey divers and down riggers.. not if useing down rigger rods or lead core and copper rods.. just those mentioned need .. when I put them in the boat I used sem pannel bond and stuck them to the area of the haul were I wanted them plates stuck.. then drilled threw them.. then stainless fender washers and bolted with stainless bolts and nylock nuts .. but that was for fiber glass.. I hate putting wood in a boat cause wood rots .. just a tip ..
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Your getting some good info here, boats are expensive and you only want to do this once and do it right. I decided to chime in on how I have done my boat.
My .02 cents: My boat is a 2001 lund 1800 fisherman. This is the 4th boat I have set up for big water trolling. I use Cannon Mag 10 downriggers, lead core and dipsy rods. I fish Sebago, Moosehead, the Belgrades, and Lake Ontario often.
My first couple boats were learning experiences, no matter how much thought I put into the placement of my equipment I found at some point I wish I had done things just a little different. But by then it was to late and the holes were forever in the gunwales.
I'm happy with my current set up and it has worked flawlessly for year. The key to my versatility is the track system by Burts http://bertscustomtackle.com/ or Traxstech https://www.traxstech.com/.
I purchased a 1" X 8" oak board and cut it to 6' long pieces. Put the track into place on the gunwale and started drilling. Once the holes were done I placed the oak board as a backer on the underside of the gunwale and drilled the holes into the board.
I bolted this all together using stainless hardware with locking nuts. Using silicone adhesive to seal everything weather tight.
I love this system and will never set up another boat without it. I can configure my riggers and rod holders any way I want and take them off for those summer days of pleasure boating. They even have inserts to make the rack look like a step.
The system is expensive and requires some creative thinking on the install but I feel it was worth every penny.
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I have the Traxtech system and totally agree with you.
It’s expensive.
Because it’s so expensive, it took me 2 yrs to pull the trigger on buying it.
Like you said, it’s worth every penny.
When I was young, and would finish a job, I would say “good enough!”.
My father would tell me there’s no such thing as “good enough”.
It’s either right or it’s wrong.
Very good words to live by.
That 1”x8” pc of oak is overkill.
But those riggers, your rod holders, and everything in them will be safe.
You did the job right!!
Thanks for you post and addition to Geoff’s thread.
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Your getting some good info here, boats are expensive and you only want to do this once and do it right. I decided to chime in on how I have done my boat.
My .02 cents: My boat is a 2001 lund 1800 fisherman. This is the 4th boat I have set up for big water trolling. I use Cannon Mag 10 downriggers, lead core and dipsy rods. I fish Sebago, Moosehead, the Belgrades, and Lake Ontario often.
My first couple boats were learning experiences, no matter how much thought I put into the placement of my equipment I found at some point I wish I had done things just a little different. But by then it was to late and the holes were forever in the gunwales.
I'm happy with my current set up and it has worked flawlessly for year. The key to my versatility is the track system by Burts http://bertscustomtackle.com/ or Traxstech https://www.traxstech.com/.
I purchased a 1" X 8" oak board and cut it to 6' long pieces. Put the track into place on the gunwale and started drilling. Once the holes were done I placed the oak board as a backer on the underside of the gunwale and drilled the holes into the board.
I bolted this all together using stainless hardware with locking nuts. Using silicone adhesive to seal everything weather tight.
I love this system and will never set up another boat without it. I can configure my riggers and rod holders any way I want and take them off for those summer days of pleasure boating. They even have inserts to make the rack look like a step.
The system is expensive and requires some creative thinking on the install but I feel it was worth every penny.
X2 on the tractech.
Expensive but what did your downrigger cost if it winds up in the drink with your DR weight, release, rod & reel if it rips out of the boat when you snag the bottom?
I had access under the gunwales and installed a 24" Traxtech system with the 1/4" aluminum backer plates. SS hardware supplied with the system.No wood needed.
I told you that boat means break out another thousand. ;D
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And while your spending money you can look into fish & electricity.
PIO control voltage differential due to galvanic reaction from dissimilar metals lead ball, SS DR cable and aluminum hull grounding. Some guys swear by this. I can't vouch for this first hand yet.
More reading...
https://www.protroll.com/bb-all-chapters
https://scotty.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Black-Box-Booklet.pdf
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I chose going with wood for a reason. The aluminum on the Lund is not a heavy gauge on the gunwale. Running a couple of riggers in rough water will cause the gunwale to flex as it rocks back and forth. By fitting the board in snug against the edges I was able to stiffen things up to my liking.
I'm a machinist welder by trade and aluminum is what I work with daily. I could of used an aluminum backer and it likely would do the same thing as the wood, its just how I did it after thinking things through.
Overkill?, yes likely..
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I'd love to get a track system but it's not in the budget right now. Someday, just not this season. I still have $1000 to spend with the canvas guy and I have to buy some more trolling rods and tackle. And my planer mast needs attention that isn't likely to be cheap either.
Yesterday I got the mid ship downriggers mounted, the stern riggers I might have to wait until I can swing a track system as I have no idea how I will mount them. I only have about 5" of gunwale behind the aft cleat and the end gunwale cap, and I don't want to interfere with the cleat use. I might have to mount them on pedestals mounted directly on the rear casting platform or do a trolling bar I guess. I also mounted two rocket launchers near the mid ship riggers for when I'm stacking. These were in areas I have full access to, and I installed 1/4" aluminum plates for them all, but I still have more flex in the riggers that I'm comfortable with. I may try that 1x8 oak board myself or have to get even bigger aluminum plates.
And while your spending money you can look into fish & electricity.
My buddy has a ProTroll black box on his boat. I'm sure with all the stuff going on with my boat I will be putting a lot of charge on my downrigger cables. I will add it to the long term budget, but not likely this season.
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I'm having trouble deciding where to mount the stern riggers. What you see is already mounted with an oak backer, those are as far forward as I was hoping to mount the front riggers. But I can't put any riggers right at the stern because of the recessed cleats. There is only 4" behind the cleat to the end cap of the gunwale.
Any suggestions? My thought is that I have to mount them much more forward, but use the boom extensions to get it over the stern and directly out back.
The black thing you see in the first picture is the anchor light fitting on the starboard side, I could easily relocate that and was thinking that should be where I mount the stern riggers. I could also relocate the recessed cleats, but I'd rather not, they are in the right spots.
I wish I could afford the track system, this is madness trying to make sure I get all this stuff in the right spots.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Sports/Boats/i-T9GXvVD/0/c73131f7/XL/20180410_172920-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Sports/Boats/i-P9tFTrX/0/be686b7c/XL/20180410_172927-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Sports/Boats/i-VjD9WNz/0/3f3a986d/XL/20180410_172957-XL.jpg)
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mine are mounted on a homemade bracket behind the transom, would be harder to do with your transom design. behind the transom, inbound of the cleat, higher than the trolling motor
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Click on the pic Geoff for a larger image in a new window.
But I think a trolling board is your answer.
And I know you know this already, but I feel your Penns are mounted to far foreward.
8)
(https://s14.postimg.cc/6erhja8a5/Downrigger_mounting_board_2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6erhja8a5/)
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mine are mounted on a homemade bracket behind the transom, would be harder to do with your transom design. behind the transom, inbound of the cleat, higher than the trolling motor
I was thinking that would be the ideal spot, but I'd have to get a huge pedestal or something. Like 16" or something. And I really wouldn't love that on the port side because of the swim platform and ladder. It would have to be detachable for summer fun time.
Click on the pic Geoff for a larger image in a new window.
But I think a trolling board is your answer.
And I know you know this already, but I feel your Penns are mounted to far foreward.
8)
(https://s14.postimg.cc/6erhja8a5/Downrigger_mounting_board_2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6erhja8a5/)
I really don't want to do a trolling bar. Again, it would have to detach so I can use the swim platform and stern entry.
I debated hard about the placement of the forward Penns but this was as far back as I could put them without having to put one foot on the rear casting platform to use them. I've dreamed about a boat I can stand up and use downriggers for over a decade, and now I have one. I'll be dammed if I'm going to mount them where I have to lean over the casting platform to use. I don't think they will foul the kicker prop, but I'll let you fully enjoy the "I told you so" moment if that is the case! Keep in mind they are on swivel bases and I'll probably have them 35 degrees towards the stern when in use. I also have 4' booms for all 4 riggers I could use but I'd prefer not to.
Besides, I am basically mounting them exactly how the Penn manual tells me to. Yes, I still have the manuals from these 30 year old riggers! A boom length each between the front and rear riggers. Basically so each rigger can spin around 360 degrees and come a few inches of each other. Of course, that's assuming I can put it on the rear of the gunwale, which I can't... but you get what my thoughts were.
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I really don't want to do a trolling bar. Again, it would have to detach so I can use the swim platform and stern entry.
It's easy enough to do.
Make the board removable.
I did this on my 21' Sylvan.
Make the brackets about 1/2" to 1" thick.
Drill and tap for 1/4-20 thumb screws - you can get them at McMaster Carr.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#thumb-screws/=1cdc6cm (https://www.mcmaster.com/#thumb-screws/=1cdc6cm)
Put an angle bracket on the ends of the board that is like 1/4" thick.
Drill 2 holes in it.
Use the thumb screws to fasten the angle brackets to the brackets that are permanently mounted to the gunnels.
Use 4 thumb screws.
the entire assy comes off with removing only 4 thumb screws.
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A trolling bar would solve a lot of problems... and the way you describe wouldn't be that expensive. I think you've convinced me!
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A trolling bar would solve a lot of problems... and the way you describe wouldn't be that expensive. I think you've convinced me!
And put those Pens on it too.
Everything!
Then, when you want it off, it all comes off at once.
Easy
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A trolling bar would solve a lot of problems... and the way you describe wouldn't be that expensive. I think you've convinced me!
What if you want to do “summer fun” and fish on the same trip. I have a similar boat and some times fish 2-3 times in the course of a day between swimming, floating, tubing, etc. I always felt the board is great on a strictly fishing boat.
Let me ask, because I don’t know, but why do you need 4 downriggers v. Using stackers?
I think you will be fine with your existing placement. That’s where I run mine and like them.
(https://s31.postimg.cc/t1lxwkkaf/747_E62_CD-1_BE8-46_E9-_AAAB-_C6_D0_BE299189.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/t1lxwkkaf/)
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I think you will be fine with your existing placement. That’s where I run mine and like them.
Yours are further back than Geoff's.
At least it appears so in the photo.
Looks like it's right at, or even back over, the casting deck.
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Looks like you could fit pedestal mounts on the stern platform.
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Looks like you could fit pedestal mounts on the stern platform.
x2
mount a short short piece of track to the deck, then you can remove it???
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Let me ask, because I don’t know, but why do you need 4 downriggers v. Using stackers?
Well, that's a good point, just because I have 4 downriggers doesn't mean I have to use them I guess.
x2
mount a short short piece of track to the deck, then you can remove it???
I'm considering that too, but it seems expensive. Might consider a pedestal like for a rigid mounted boat seat in a quick release base.
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(https://www.myfishfinder.com/fishing_forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FMNSlQEG.jpg&hash=9024ae840f7c69c584b105588b871cfd)
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how about 6 to 8 inch pedastals mounted just forward of the cleat on the gunnel, add a drop back plate so the downrigger is over the cleat and the cleat still has access. still have access for the swim platform, could even add a handle to the plate for getting off the platform. my homemade rigger mounts add more bounce to the boom, i think its an added bonus for presentation
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Seems like an awful lot of work and maybe overkill.
Be nice to hear the original postee finally launched his boat
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Seems like an awful lot of work and maybe overkill.
Be nice to hear the original postee finally launched his boat
The plan was this Saturday to get her launched, but that was when the weather was calling for 60's and sunshine. Now it's looking like rain. I still may take her out but I still have a lot to do yet. One important thing is to hook up the harness to my truck for the power winch, although I could hand crank it if I had to. And I have to replace the bilge pump which I already have a cartridge for.
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Jethro,
It is not the best picture of the rigger set up, but this should give you an idea of where ours are located on my fathers boat:
(https://s17.postimg.cc/uuxmfrkln/99_E55838-_E6_BD-418_A-9815-6_AE41_F74_E359.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/uuxmfrkln/)
I have debated moving them forwards so that you can acces them and not be on the casting platform out back, but I like where they are now, and the idea of getting something in the prop means they will probably stay where they are.
We rarely fish more than six lines trolling. That said I have run 8 lines before with this set up: 2 lines on each rigger (stacked) two lead core lines off the side (holders right in front of the riggers) and then two lines off the planet boards (mast out front).
You do have to kneel down to set the riggers on the back platform, but I’d rather that then having a cable caught in the prop.
I’ll try to take some better pictures of the boat this weekend when we take the cover off and get it ready.
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(https://www.myfishfinder.com/fishing_forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FMNSlQEG.jpg&hash=9024ae840f7c69c584b105588b871cfd)
What the hell??! Nice set up, someones a machinist.
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You do have to kneel down to set the riggers on the back platform, but I’d rather that then having a cable caught in the prop.
Boom
8)
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Jethro I've enjoyed the thread, congrats on the new ride! My one piece of advise is to enjoy the rigging while your doing it. Some times it takes a few trips to get the set up to your liking and style you like to fish. Take her out, enjoy! And go fishing... tight lines!
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Jethro,
Just my .02 but I would have mounted the DR's behind the stand up rod holders.
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Well, everyone seems to say the forward riggers are set too far forward. I that's too bad, I have them mounted exactly how the Penn manual suggests...
(https://s18.postimg.cc/sl2vthdb9/1523585957872199482017.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/sl2vthdb9/)
So I'll have to fish it and see what it seems like. The damage is done now anyway.
Jethro,
Just my .02 but I would have mounted the DR's behind the stand up rod holders.
I have 2 more riggers to mount, so it will be exactly like the diagram above.
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I agree that mounting riggers as far back as comfortable is the way to go. This is how my boat is setup. I can sit behind them and set my releases without hanging over the side. Pretty important when fishing alone
(https://www.myfishfinder.com/fishing_forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FUegBAav.jpg&hash=1e8a978f82e273ca163f843f080ca0db)
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Well, everyone seems to say the forward riggers are set too far forward. I that's too bad, I have them mounted exactly how the Penn manual suggests...
(https://s18.postimg.cc/sl2vthdb9/1523585957872199482017.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/sl2vthdb9/)
So I'll have to fish it and see what it seems like. The damage is done now anyway.
I have 2 more riggers to mount, so it will be exactly like the diagram above.
To me you did it the way you wanted and that how it should be done!! oh ya but its not how I would have done it cause its a waste of money for a secound set of down riggers when you can set a dipsey on a negative 1 or 2 track on a large dipsey in towards boat using wire line on a wire line rod. then on the rod out side of that go with a fire line dipsey rod set a 0 or postive 1 or 2 track away from boat.. then go to your core or copper rods and planner boards.. it's all about the spread and how many rods you can have per boat and how many you can fit on the boat.. but every one has different reason for what they do .. so don't let this stop you I have even seen bigger vessels with 8 riggers stright back 4 on each side and they still ran dipseys and core and copper .. cause they were charter boats so they could fit more rods and more people ..
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To me you did it the way you wanted and that how it should be done!! oh ya but its not how I would have done it cause its a waste of money for a secound set of down riggers when you can set a dipsey on a negative 1 or 2 track on a large dipsey in towards boat using wire line on a wire line rod. then on the rod out side of that go with a fire line dipsey rod set a 0 or postive 1 or 2 track away from boat.. then go to your core or copper rods and planner boards.. it's all about the spread and how many rods you can have per boat and how many you can fit on the boat.. but every one has different reason for what they do .. so don't let this stop you I have even seen bigger vessels with 8 riggers stright back 4 on each side and they still ran dipseys and core and copper .. cause they were charter boats so they could fit more rods and more people ..
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Sports/Boats/i-4JMdW4C/0/cb8d5f85/L/20180331_104205-SM.jpg)
I'm certainly no charter boat, but I can fit a lot of people... I have 4 friends that fish with me all the time, we are always in 2 separate boats, it would be nice to occasionally fish together, that was my thinking behind the 4 riggers. I don't use dipseys, yet, but I do use leadcore on planers. So my thought was 5 people would require 4 riggers but I am new to this. My 14' Starcraft with 2 riggers I have fished 6 lines from.
Anyway, if tonight's chores go as well as planned it will get wet tomorrow morning and I'll see what I think of the riggers mounted where they are.
It's all a work in progress anyway, and I'm having a blast with it.
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You got some space up on the bow?
Put that 4th one you got right up front then you can swing it to which ever side the fish are on......... ;D
You've done well, I think your going to like the way you have it set up. My last boat I had the downriggers a little more forward than most and I don't think I could have gotten them wrapped up in the prop if I tried to, this time I'm putting them just behind the helm. As much as I like using them, they just seem to be in the way back there, especially when we've got 2 or 3 fish hooked up at once. And I like the idea of having the whole cockpit to work behind them where all the business happens instead of working over them or in front of them.
I can't wait to see the reaction I get when folks see 2 downriggers on the roof of my hard top, I've got an extra manual penn like yours that I'm going to use to run a planer board. When I find a second one I'll put'm up there.
And yes it is a work in progress....until you get your next boat, and then that one will be a work in progress. It's your boat to set up the way you want it. And there is no shame in having a few extra holes drilled in it here and there, just make sure to fix the ones below the water line properly.
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Put an electric motor in the bow to troll with then you won't have to worry about getting lines in the prop.
Nice and quiet, no outboard fumes. slow down to less than a mile per hour. Might have been your original idea..
I have one that clamps on anywhere and the controll cord is 15 feet long. Don't know if they make that model anymore
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Put an electric motor in the bow to troll with then you won't have to worry about getting lines in the prop.
Nice and quiet, no outboard fumes. slow down to less than a mile per hour. Might have been your original idea..
I have one that clamps on anywhere and the controll cord is 15 feet long. Don't know if they make that model anymore
I have a Minn Kota Powerdrive bow mount with a 25' cord. That works great for a day or so but I do a bunch of multi-day camping trips where there is no chance of recharge.
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My take is after 12 pages of how to set it up you may be too tired to launch it! ;D
(https://s7.postimg.cc/3ynesnc9z/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3ynesnc9z/)
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My take is after 12 pages of how to set it up you may be too tired to launch it! ;D
(https://s7.postimg.cc/3ynesnc9z/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3ynesnc9z/)
You may be right
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Is that a SkiDoo windshield on there?
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My take is after 12 pages of how to set it up you may be too tired to launch it! ;D
(https://s7.postimg.cc/3ynesnc9z/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3ynesnc9z/)
I was just thinking that after reading all of this, a 14 footer that fits in the bed of a pickup looks pretty good. All to catch a vertebrate with a pea sized brain.
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First off that's a nice rig and you'll get there eventually. Once you start fishing and you find something you want to change, just change it.
I will say though the Penn instructions are showing a closed transom which is a different animal as far as placement. If your props centered under the boat there's a lot more flexibility. If you run into issues with cable in the kicker then cage the prop. Lots of different ways to do this including standard rock guards or homemade options. As you work it out I would recommend grabbing a second prop for that 6hp. A minor investment that can keep you out there if something goes south. You would need some serious deflection to get the the cable in that prop but be extra careful setting your lines....trust me.
Even for your size boat that's a lot of gear to be dragging. One lively fish and it'll get "interesting" quick. If you're doing it right just a few lines will do.
I run a Bert's bar across the back of my boat my kids have no problem getting in using the swim ladder. Just having the swim ladder is more options than my father gave us back in the day :laugh:.
Now get some slime in that thing.
Well, everyone seems to say the forward riggers are set too far forward. I that's too bad, I have them mounted exactly how the Penn manual suggests...
(https://s18.postimg.cc/sl2vthdb9/1523585957872199482017.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/sl2vthdb9/)
So I'll have to fish it and see what it seems like. The damage is done now anyway.
I have 2 more riggers to mount, so it will be exactly like the diagram above.
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I was just thinking that after reading all of this, a 14 footer that fits in the bed of a pickup looks pretty good. All to catch a vertebrate with a pea sized brain.
My next thread will be about kayak fishing lol
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My next thread will be about kayak fishing lol
I wasn't picking on you at all and understand that setting up something new takes time. Just seems that we all like to spend other's $$. ;D ;D ;D ;D
When I purchased my new boat, I had a hard time drilling that first hole. Both MG39 and gamefisher kicked me in the pants and said "do it and move on". They were right, as is Tunker. Things can be changed.
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I think he is forgetting about the most important thing which I am sure Gamefisher agonized over: cooler location.
I wasn't picking on you at all and understand that setting up something new takes time. Just seems that we all like to spend other's $$. ;D ;D ;D ;D
When I purchased my new boat, I had a hard time drilling that first hole. Both MG39 and gamefisher kicked me in the pants and said "do it and move on". They were right, as is Tunker. Things can be changed.
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Did someone say ski doo windshield?
(https://s31.postimg.cc/m31c18bbr/IMG_0771.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/m31c18bbr/)
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I think he is forgetting about the most important thing which I am sure Gamefisher agonized over: cooler location.
The rest is fluff.
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Is that a SkiDoo windshield on there?
Obviously you haven't checked your sleds out back in a while..... ::) :laugh:
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Obviously you haven't checked your sleds out back in a while..... ::) :laugh:
>:(
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Jethro
I'm going to offer some friendly advice. Take it as you wish and it is NOT intended to offend anyone.
I read this thread and thought , out loud, HO Lee #$%k. others are very good at spending your money. In my very simple mindset, I'd mount 2 riggers and some rod holder where YOU think and then go fishing. Not once, not twice but several times. Figure out how the boat handles, how YOU are going to use it, how you fish, how it fishes, how it handles different weather conditions, etc. After that add, modify, or subtract. You might just find out that 2 riggers and 2 other rod holders are what you want.
It seems unwise to me to go out and spend a shitload of money on "things" that you have no idea if you will like, use, or need. The only way to know is by DOING. Rome wasn't built in a day. You have the platform, now get it wet and decide what you need and want and, as importantly, what you don't need or want.
Planning is fun but cripes.
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I stand by what I said except for the fact that I forgot about the cooler.....
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I stand by what I said except for the fact that I forgot about the cooler.....
(https://s14.postimg.cc/dqp4jr0x9/Beer_Cooler_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/dqp4jr0x9/)
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(https://s14.postimg.cc/e3gipzw2l/smilely_popcorn.gif) (https://postimg.cc/image/e3gipzw2l/)
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I think he is forgetting about the most important thing which I am sure Gamefisher agonized over: cooler location.
I figured that out before everything else, believe me!
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I figured that out before everything else, believe me!
I've heard through the grapevine that live wells and frozen water jugs make great coolers but you'd have to check with some of the site veterans for confirmation. :laugh:
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I've heard through the grapevine that live wells and frozen water jugs make great coolers but you'd have to check with some of the site veterans for confirmation. :laugh:
Works for me!
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I hate beverage cans that smell like fish.
But that’s just me.
8)
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I hate beverage cans that smell like fish.
But that’s just me.8)
Im with you Mac. But its the taste you just cant wipe off that kills me..... :P
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Im with you Mac. But its the taste you just cant wipe off that kills me..... :P
Yup
Fish coolers are for fish
Need other coolers for the rest
Never shall they mix
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Yup
Fish coolers are for fish
Need other coolers for the rest
Never shall they mix
They make these things called plastic bags, work great. 8)
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They make these things called plastic bags, work great. 8)
Yeah, but the busybody feelgooders don't want you to have any.
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This has been a great read. I am in a similar situation with my Lung 1900 Tyee that I bought mid year last summer. It has a built in track on the inside edge of the gunwale and came with 2 downriggers mounted on brackets that can be positioned anywhere along the track. The problem is the track is only aluminum and the little T style bolts that tighten the mount to the track are only a quarter inch wide. I had one loosen up on Lake Ontario and almost lost a rigger overboard. I have decided to bite the bullet and mount them on top of the gunwale permanently. Now I need the courage to drill that first hole.....
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I have a Minn Kota Powerdrive bow mount with a 25' cord. That works great for a day or so but I do a bunch of multi-day camping trips where there is no chance of recharge.
Hey Jethro,
Since you mentioned you're remote fishing in ME and this post here reminded me. I happened upon a youtube video of this while looking for a replacement battery for my Lowrance Icemachine. It will reduce the battery weight on my Icemachine by 75%. I haven't bought one yet so this isn't a first hand recommendation. But it looks like very cool technology. And I'm just throwing it out there for you. Not trying to spend your money. ;D
http://themicrostart.com/ (http://themicrostart.com/)
And I wanted to mention to you if you weren't aware of a guy in your backyard who makes and sells DR balls for 65cents a pound. You can't touch that price anywhere. They are very nice! So I'm trying to save you money on that one. :laugh:
(https://s20.postimg.cc/cdu3zxp7d/20180414_180943.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/cdu3zxp7d/)
I can PM you his contact info.
sully
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This has been a great read. I am in a similar situation with my Lung 1900 Tyee that I bought mid year last summer. It has a built in track on the inside edge of the gunwale and came with 2 downriggers mounted on brackets that can be positioned anywhere along the track. The problem is the track is only aluminum and the little T style bolts that tighten the mount to the track are only a quarter inch wide. I had one loose up on Lake Ontario and almost lost a rigger overboard. I have decided to bite the bullet and mount them on top of the gunwale permantly. Now I need the courage to drill that first hole.....
Drilling holes are the least of your worries as I have seen you struggle to land the larger fish. You need an excellent net man!! For the right price I may be able to help you. 😂
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On the topic of setting up boats, I’ve really been thinking about a driving light as I like to stay out after dark and start early. I was in the garage the other night after pulling off the shrink wrap and pulled out an old led light bar from a snowmobile. I wanted something off the deck but nothing permanent that would prevent me using a cover. I made a quick release harness for the wiring tying into the nav lights and attached it to the nav light pole. Can quickly stow it when not in use.
(https://s31.postimg.cc/x915i5dqv/B0_CEE4_A3-3536-474_C-9971-_CF71_D2_D0_FBC1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/x915i5dqv/)
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On the topic of setting up boats, I’ve really been thinking about a driving light as I like to stay out after dark and start early. I was in the garage the other night after pulling off the shrink wrap and pulled out an old led light bar from a snowmobile. I wanted something off the deck but nothing permanent that would prevent me using a cover. I made a quick release harness for the wiring tying into the nav lights and attached it to the nav light pole. Can quickly stow it when not in use.
(https://s31.postimg.cc/x915i5dqv/B0_CEE4_A3-3536-474_C-9971-_CF71_D2_D0_FBC1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/x915i5dqv/)
Sweet!!
Good job.
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Got the boat wet today, very happy with how it fished and performed in general. Lake I was on is only about 40 ft max depth, so I didn't really get to see how the downriggers handled being mounted where they are. They sure work fine for 30 ft. I'm not really concerned about it though. I moved the kicker as close to the main as possible, and got the steering linkage hooked up. Works a charm! When the boom is angled back towards the stern I don't see any way the cable could foul the prop unless it was real snotty out and I was taking a beam sea. I'm sure I will encounter it at some point though and will have to be conscious of it.
Main motor works perfect, idles nice but 3.8mph slowest in still water. Kicker isn't too annoying for what it is but I think needs some adjustment. Would not idle constantly where I thought it should. Had to keep it throttled up and slowest troll about 2.5mph. Need to play with it, might be an air adjustment. May try dragging a bucket or two with the main next time I'm out... sure would be less walking to the throttle and back to the wheel.
The full windshield and Bimini top with windshield is such a game-changer! I can't wait till I get those side curtains. It was chilly out there today and I wish I had brought my heater. It probably would have worked pretty well even without the side curtains.
I dragged a lead core line and one downrigger setup with cowbells most of the day and no fish. Did not expect much from this lake anyway was more of a shakedown mission than anything. The only time I missed my other boat was when I was loading the boat back up on the trailer. This thing is a big boat, I've got to get used to loading it and loading the Starcraft will seem like child's play next time I use it.
(https://s18.postimg.cc/9rw8o5b05/20180414_115032.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/9rw8o5b05/)
(https://s18.postimg.cc/yz74o315x/20180414_133356.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/yz74o315x/)
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Good job Geoff.
And very good report.
Tilt the kicker up a little and it will lower the thrust and allow you to run it slightly higher rpm to go slower.
Just make sure it’s still drinking water.
Don’t wanna overheat.
Nice pix too.
One last suggestion.
Smile next time.
😎
👍
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How's this one Mac
(https://s18.postimg.cc/qf18czbet/20180414_133404.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/qf18czbet/)
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Good to hear a nice report. What was the kicker you got ?
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Good to hear a nice report. What was the kicker you got ?
2006 mercury 6 horse.
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How's this one Mac
(https://s18.postimg.cc/qf18czbet/20180414_133404.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/qf18czbet/)
WAY better partner!!
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Small world again Jethro! Your boat was made just up the road from me about 15 minutes away. I probably know some of the people that built it!
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Small world again Jethro! Your boat was made just up the road from me about 15 minutes away. I probably know some of the people that built it!
No way! Awesome!
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Got a lot done this weekend!
Did my first carpet job on the nose deck, installed a horn and solved a short that was in my nav light. Carpet match came out pretty good I think, I hate carpet but it's cheap and I'll make it work for a few years before I can do something like vinyl. Also installed the quick release for the trolling motor. I will have more carpet work to do or the next few months but at least this is a start.
(https://s18.postimg.cc/4t62c07kl/20180422_091959.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4t62c07kl/)
Reconfigured the linkage for my kicker steering, it is drilled into the mains cowl now. The previous version used two bars tied together to travel all the way over to the other side of the main. This version allows me to trim the main if I choose. I can also trim either motor independently.
(https://s18.postimg.cc/8cs01zprp/20180422_092152.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8cs01zprp/)
Took your advice Mac, and built a small trolling bar which is detachable leaving just leaving aluminum angles on the boat. It's stronger than I thought it would be. I will probably stain the oak boards to protect the wood a little bit. Decided that 3 rigger mounts will be plenty, in fact most times I believe I'll probably only have two downriggers with me on board. This is what I came up with:
(https://s18.postimg.cc/rhv9bsu5x/20180422_170751.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/rhv9bsu5x/)
(https://s18.postimg.cc/e0yasxz9x/20180422_173626.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/e0yasxz9x/)
Also took care of some cosmetic stuff that was desperately needing done... got all my electrical working really good, I have two new batteries on board... I think I am ready to just go catch some fish! Wish me luck!
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Great work on everything Geoff.
I would worry about attaching that steering rod to the fiberglass cowl of the big motor however. I would be worried it will crack and those cowls are not cheap.
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Great work on everything Geoff.
I would worry about attaching that steering rod to the fiberglass cowl of the big motor however. I would be worried it will crack and those cowls are not cheap.
Yep, I know I'm taking a chance but determined it was worth the risk. Did not fell comfortable drilling into the bracket shoulder of the main itself. I bonded an aluminum plate for blocking on the backside of the cowl, I think I did the best I could for keeping the fiberglass in one piece.
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Good progress and this has been a fun read.
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Yep, I know I'm taking a chance but determined it was worth the risk. Did not fell comfortable drilling into the bracket shoulder of the main itself. I bonded an aluminum plate for blocking on the backside of the cowl, I think I did the best I could for keeping the fiberglass in one piece.
The backer was a question I was going to ask.
Still............
Good luck.
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The first version was not good. Used two of the bars and connected them. Was unable to trim either motor without binding and the motor would turn one way fine, but the other was super stiff. Really not smooth at all. So over the weekend I decided that risking the cowling was worth the risk. I epoxied a big piece of aluminum flatstock to the inside surface of the cowl.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/d0plweinf/20180413_183750.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/d0plweinf/)
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The first version was not good. Used two of the bars and connected them. Was unable to trim either motor without binding and the motor would turn one way fine, but the other was super stiff. Really not smooth at all. So over the weekend I decided that risking the cowling was worth the risk. I epoxied a big piece of aluminum flatstock to the inside surface of the cowl.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/d0plweinf/20180413_183750.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/d0plweinf/)
It looks like it the kicker was on the other side of the boat it would be ideal . It looks like you could mount the balls like you did in your first setup and run a short rod with no binding. ???
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It looks like it the kicker was on the other side of the boat it would be ideal . It looks like you could mount the balls like you did in your first setup and run a short rod with no binding. ???
Yeah, unfortunately the swim platform is on that side. I didn't want to deal with removing or relocating the swim platform, it's actually got a very nice, telescoping stainless steel ladder that I constantly use to enter the boat when it's on the trailer.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Sports/Boats/i-fQ9T4LQ/0/57e559d1/L/20180331_091939-L.jpg)
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The first version was not good. Used two of the bars and connected them. Was unable to trim either motor without binding and the motor would turn one way fine, but the other was super stiff. Really not smooth at all. So over the weekend I decided that risking the cowling was worth the risk. I epoxied a big piece of aluminum flatstock to the inside surface of the cowl.
I couldn't trim mine either with the bar installed.
So I decided to only use it will trolling.
The quick connect ball ends allow for easy on/off.
So I stored it and said I would install it as needed.
Stowed it and never got it back out.
It's in the boat someplace, buried deep.
But I'll be darned if I can locate it in a few minutes.
lol
I'm surprised that you big motor doesn't have that small tab like the kicker.
Maybe older motors didn't have this steering hookup tab.
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I'm surprised that you big motor doesn't have that small tab like the kicker.
Maybe older motors didn't have this steering hookup tab.
It has a tab or bar where the Teleflex steering rod attaches after it comes out the other side and turns back. It's way underneath the base of the motor and it looks like a serious job just to access that bolt. I'm fairly satisfied with my epoxy job with the backing plate and I'll keep an eye on it. If it cracks, well, I'll have to learn how to do fiberglass and paint work I guess.
I am at a point where I think I am done for the most part. Just hoping for some of my favorite lakes to start icing out.
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If it cracks, well, I'll have to learn how to do fiberglass and paint work I guess.
:rotflol: :rotflol:
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I am at a point where I think I am done for the most part. Just hoping for some of my favorite lakes to start icing out.
Hay at least your at a point you can enjoy the boat?? some are at the point of total tear down.. this time of year cause there to lazy to do it last year or when it was cold lol's.. be glad its not bust out another thousand right now cause you fond a leak.. lol's like saying it could be worst.. so enjoy wile you can..
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Yesterday was my first full day trolling on the boat and it fishes really well. I'm really happy with where I mounted the downriggers they are not too far forward for sure. Caught this one yesterday early in the day while fishing the big lake in NH 3 days after ice-out and just wanted to share here. Looking forward for some big fish when I come to Maine!
(https://s18.postimg.cc/xmmtctbnp/20180429_091412.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/xmmtctbnp/)
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Did you get that fish on a downrigger ?
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Nice fish partner
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Did you get that fish on a downrigger ?
Yes 7 feet down on the downrigger, 10 lb ball pulling a 48-inch set of cowbells. I run a Scotty snubber above the ball and then my Chamberlain release above that. So my lure was about four to six feet behind and a foot above the last cowbell. So if you think about it, that fish was caught very close to the boat. I was fishing a DB Smelt #102 Rangeley Special, trolling about 2.3mph.
I was also fishing a lead core line and so was my partner in crime, and as per usual the lead core line performed the downriggers. We boated three salmon and two rainbows, all but one of the salmon were good, keeper size fish. Only two of the salmon were caught on the downriggers.
(https://s18.postimg.cc/8h03uo379/20180428_131843.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8h03uo379/)
(https://s18.postimg.cc/xzsg7of1h/20180429_085522.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/xzsg7of1h/)
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Nice to see it fishing . You sure put your time into setting it up . Thats going to be a fish slaying machine !! I'm looking forward to more fishing reports . Did you name the boat yet ???
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Did you name the boat yet ???
Not officially. My 14' Starcraft Superfisherman is named the Slamma Jamma (long story that has to do with snowmobile buddies) or Slamma for short, so we've been calling it the Jumbo Jamma but I think this boat deserves something better than that. Its a work in progress but its possible Jumbo Jamma may stick.
As for it being a fish slaying machine I sure hope so!
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Boats need to be named after your wife so she will be less likely to b***h about it.
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Boats need to be named after your wife so she will be less likely to b***h about it.
My buddy named his pigs after his sisters in law & mother in law.
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How do the live wells work on my boat? They have two settings, fill and circulate. I tried to fill it half way up and then I turned it off and the next thing I noticed it was empty. Do I need to just leave the fill button on? How do I leave water in there? Am I supposed to put a plug in the bottom of the live well?
My buddy named his pigs after his sisters in law & mother in law.
Lol!!
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Congrats on the boat & fish. Well done.
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Good work Jethro.
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Boats need to be named after your wife so she will be less likely to b***h about it.
Tried that....she's gone now.
(https://s14.postimg.cc/7jn29rt5p/lard_ass.png) (https://postimg.cc/image/7jn29rt5p/)
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Tried that....she's gone now.
(https://s14.postimg.cc/7jn29rt5p/lard_ass.png) (https://postimg.cc/image/7jn29rt5p/)
Hahaha!
I'm not naming it after my ex-wife because cheating ho-bag doesn't seem like a good fishing boat name.
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Cheating Drift Sock is pretty similar. lol
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Hahaha!
I'm not naming it after my ex-wife because cheating ho-bag doesn't seem like a good fishing boat name.
Send her a message.
Sofa King Happy Again