MyFishFinder Forum
MFF US Northeast => New Hampshire => Topic started by: fishegg on Aug 01, 2017, 07:57 AM
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I have plenty of leadcore, and a downrigger, but am considering trying out dipsy divers or the equivalent. Spending a week at the lake(winni) the middle of August and figured I would have time to mess with something new. I have zero experience with them and appreciate any help regarding techniques, sizes, colors, brands???? Want to get away from reeling in a fish with the dead action of leadcore. Do's and don'ts?
Any anecdotal input is welcome please. Thank you.
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Lots of info on the interweb about dipsy divers.
They're not used a lot on Winni.
You really should have a wire set up for dipsys.
If you want to give them a try, I'd seriously look at the "slide divers by lite bite".
You can get away with heavier mono but braid or wire is preferred.
If you pm me, I have all the above (except wire) that are looking for a new home.
I also have jet divers and tripz divers which are non directional but probably more effective on Winni.
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You really should have a wire set up for dipsys.
I run dipsys on lake erie with 30lb braid and NEVER have a problem.. I know 3 charters and they all use braid as well, so I really don't think wire is necessary.. jmo
I use all black #3's with a black ring as well... they can be a very effective tool for sure !
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I run dipsys on lake erie with 30lb braid and NEVER have a problem.. I know 3 charters and they all use braid as well, so I really don't think wire is necessary.. jmo
I use all black #3's with a black ring as well... they can be a very effective tool for sure !
You really should have a wire set up for dipsys
How deep are you fishing on Erie?
"they can be a very effective tool for sure"
As I've said before, I really appreciate the info from you great lake guys.
Winni is a much different fishery though. A lot of your methodology works fine here and some just don't.
I can see someone new to dipsy fishing on Winni dragging small fish around for a long time.
I can also see them dragging dipsy's a long time with no action while using "our" more conventional methods would have much more positive results.
Both, our fish and bait is much smaller than found on the great lakes.
That's why many of us go to NY. ;D
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How deep are you fishing on Erie?
As I've said before, I really appreciate the info from you great lake guys.
Winni is a much different fishery though. A lot of your methodology works fine here and some just don't.
I can see someone new to dipsy fishing on Winni dragging small fish around for a long time.
I can also see them dragging dipsy's a long time with no action while using "our" more conventional methods would have much more positive results.
Both, our fish and bait is much smaller than found on the great lakes.
That's why many of us go to NY. ;D
I'm fishing in water depths up to 90 fow.. HOWEVER, fish are usually at different depths within the thermocline.. I caught fish yesterday off dipsys (in 65 fow) but the fish were in bait pods that were only down 20 fow..
As far as dragging small fish around, just set your trigger so that it's light enough for a small fish... but at the end of the day you still have to watch your rods.. most of my fish yesterday were under 20'.. only had 1 that I didn't know was on there
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Also set your drag properly WITH THE CLICKER.
And watch your rods.
And check your rods occasionally.
We fish Erie with dipseys in water over 100' and in Lake O in water over 400'.
I won't run wire anymore.
Just don't like it.
Zero stretch and tough on the guides and it kinks.
But that's just me.
We also run 30# braid.
I know it doesn't stretch like mono or flouro, but it does stretch when compared with wire.
And it's tough.
Not disagreeing to you SH.
Just adding to your thoughts.
;)
Here's a tip to this thread -
Do a search on You Tube.
Lotsa ship over there.
One more tip, a medium/heavy or heavy rod around 8.5-10' works well for us.
And lastly, a ratchet type rod holder that holds the rod parallel with the water, but allows you to grab the rod and ratchet it into an upright position quickly when a fish hits makes it WAY easier to get that rod out of the holder and also minimizes the chance you will lose the rod, reel, and a buncha dollars in gear. This rod holder tip I think is worth considering. I have run dipseys for about 40 years now and trying to get the rod out of the holder when it's pointing away from the boat with a decent fish on is tough. And I've seen rods and reels lost because of this. Not on my boat though. ::)
Good luck.
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Also set your drag properly WITH THE CLICKER.
And watch your rods.
And check your rods occasionally.
We fish Erie with dipseys in water over 100' and in Lake O in water over 400'.
I won't run wire anymore.
Just don't like it.
Zero stretch and tough on the guides and it kinks.
But that's just me.
We also run 30# braid.
I know it doesn't stretch like mono or flouro, but it does stretch when compared with wire.
And it's tough.
Not disagreeing to you SH.
Just adding to your thoughts.
;)
Here's a tip to this thread -
Do a search on You Tube.
Lotsa ship over there.
One more tip, a medium/heavy or heavy rod around 8.5-10' works well for us.
And lastly, a ratchet type rod holder that holds the rod parallel with the water, but allows you to grab the rod and ratchet it into an upright position quickly when a fish hits makes it WAY easier to get that rod out of the holder and also minimizes the chance you will lose the rod, reel, and a buncha dollars in gear. This rod holder tip I think is worth considering. I have run dipseys for about 40 years now and trying to get the rod out of the holder when it's pointing away from the boat with a decent fish on is tough. And I've seen rods and reels lost because of this. Not on my boat though. ::)
Good luck.
I hear ya, Mac. :)
Drag (with clicker on) set so even a bump or outside turn will take it out a few clicks.
Excellent advice on the rod holders. I used the Vectors (no longer sold). you could put them parallel with the water and lock them out so all you had to do was lift the rod and holder straight up and out comes the rod (inside the boat). Traxstech has one or more that will do the same.
Understand the need for dipsy rods. It would be kind of an anticlimax bringing in a 2-3# salmon behind a dipsy diver on one of those rods though. ;)
As far as dragging small fish around, just set your trigger so that it's light enough for a small fish... but at the end of the day you still have to watch your rods.. most of my fish yesterday were under 20'.. only had 1 that I didn't know was on there
Just to clarify a little, I was just trying to give some anecdotal info to the op.
am considering trying out dipsy divers or the equivalent. Spending a week at the lake(winni) the middle of August and figured I would have time to mess with something new. I have zero experience with them and appreciate any help regarding techniques, sizes, colors, brands?huh Want to get away from reeling in a fish with the dead action of leadcore. Do's and don'ts?
Any anecdotal input is welcome please. Thank you.
I'm familiar with setting "triggers".
In the long run, if the op isn't set up for pulling divers, it would be quite an investment for something I suspect he won't be happy with on Winni. There is also a bit of a learning curve when you first start out. Much more so with "0 experience using them".
Interesting how you and Mac have switched to "30 #" braid?
Thanks for your input fishnjohn.
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Tried dipsys with braid last year on O...not so good. Dipsys with wire...well lets say something about that setup fired up those salmon. Outside of O I tried them in fisheries similar to winnie...not so good. Personally I'd rather run leadcore.
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I have been running a lite bite slide diver this year with marginal results. There is a learning curve with them but overall pretty easy to use. I have a 8'^" rod and 50 pound braid with about 6-7 feet of leader. The nice part of the slide diver is that yo can set the lure as far back as you like.
I say I have marginal results, but to be fair, it had put a few extra fish in the boat, especially earlier this season when the fish dropped to 10-15 feet. You can set the diver so it goes out to the side and it was very effective then.
The only reason I even tried one was to try one. Personally, this year I wrote off as a learning year and I'm not sure the results were worth the investment. They are pretty cool to use but give me my riggers and a few leadcore and I'm happy.
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If the fish are typically 2-3# I wouldn't even consider dipseys unless it was the smallest dipsey.
They just add too much BS to the line for smaller fish. IMHO
That being said, we hauled in a 1# perch Saturday on a #3 dipsey.
It tripped the dipsey and simply felt like a shorty walleye.
So they work, and you can run them for small fish.
But if I was fishing for fish say under 4# and most under 3#, and wanted to get things deep I'd run downriggers.
I know........more $$$$
But with the downrigger, after the fish trips the release, you are fighting only the fish. No extra BS as I mentioned above.
But, we catch a LOT of walleyes under 4# on dipseys.
Not the best fight, but walleyes are really not fighters anyway.
(Far better eaters)
SH - I run braid on darn every rod I own.
And I have about 30 rods.
Did this about 5 yrs back.
The ones yanking a dipsey are only braid.
The ones running leadcore ahve a braid backing and floro leader.
My downrigger rods have all braid and clip on a 6-8 foot long floro leader.
My perch rods are all braid.
We fish for perch in 45 to 80 FOW in Erie.
Mono or floro has too much stretch.
Braid outperforms anything on perch hands down in deep water like that.
My walleye jiggin rods I use up in Canada have 4 or 6# braid with a short 6' floro leader tied on.
My catfish rods for the creek have 30# braid.
Catfish don't care if you use 150# downrigger cable or a tow chain when they're hungry. :D
My drift rods for walleye that I use with a bait walker or other weights to drag a crawler harness are all braid.
Braid lasts longer than mono and is reasonable when bought in bulk spools and when compared to mono or floro that goes to ship in a year or two from sun and ozone.
And my Ugly Stick that is my run and gun rod in the car when I'm traveling for work and spot a nice creek or farm pond, has 4# braid and a snap swivel that I will clip a jig or a Rapala or a spinner to and throw for a bit to ease the day's tension.
My saltwater surf rods have 30# braid too.
And when I was still ice fishing, my tipups all had braid.
Love braid.
;)
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You must not have the water fleas on Erie, like Ontario has. You know the little guys that accumulate on the line, especially braid.
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I know it may not be the answer you are looking for but if you are looking for a better fight from fish on winni in august another downrigger would be the way to go. I have stayed away from dipsys for all the reasons mentioned in this thread. I have only spoken with one gentlemen who used them on winni, but if he is to be believed he caught some nice lake trout with them. The lite bite set ups mentioned in this thread sound interesting to me, but I have not tried them yet.
I fished winni this past Sunday, and we were lucky enough to land 3 very very nice salmon in short succession. 2 on leadcore, and one on the rigger. The one I caught was via the downrigger, and it was by far the best fight of the three.
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I switched to all braid about 7 years ago like mac.. when I'm fishing super clear water in the river or jigging for eyes, I use a 2 foot floro leader.. otherwise it's strictly braid ON EVERYTHING , same as mac...
No stretch, no memory, and it has the strength of big lb mono with the diameter of light mono! I fish ALOT of wood and braid helps me keep my crankbaits in my tackle box and not on the bottom of river/ lake
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You must not have the water fleas on Erie, like Ontario has. You know the little guys that accumulate on the line, especially braid.
yup
we do
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I'm definitely not trying to sell braid short.
All my salt water stuff and everything jigging is braid.
I use it for backing on my leadcore's and rigger rods. I pull jet divers and slide divers with it.
I follow the braid on my rigger rods with 100-150' of mono and a top shot of fluoro, cuz I'm not sure the braid will work in the Chamberlain releases I use. FWIW, I'm not switching releases. ;)
Yes Mac, unfortunately, 2-2.5 # is probably the average salmon on Winni. Haven't heard of anything over 6 in years and the 6's are rare.
And I have about 30 rods.
I haven't counted my trolling rods for years. I'd say we were neck and neck in that dept.
If I counted all my rods it would be almost double. :-[ All, ready to go with just a leader change.
BTW, what happened to fishegg? :unsure:
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Now why everyone gotta be talking about me...lmao......
SeaHunt is correct for our NH waters....Lite Bite Sliders or nothing.....even the smallest of Dipsy's are not a wise NH choice....Down Riggers or Leadcores will produce our small NH game fish :D
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A friend of mine uses one of these opposite a downrigger. Saw it perform pretty well on silver lake.
http://www.basspro.com/shop/en/davis-instruments-fish-seeker
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A friend of mine uses one of these opposite a downrigger. Saw it perform pretty well on silver lake.
http://www.basspro.com/shop/en/davis-instruments-fish-seeker
http://www.basspro.com/shop/en/davis-instruments-fish-seeker (http://www.basspro.com/shop/en/davis-instruments-fish-seeker)
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BTW, what happened to fishegg? :unsure:
He's busy reading.
:D
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The jet divers may be a better fit or those slide divers that were mentioned.. I've used jets before.. sometimes takes ALOT more line out the back to get desired depths, but also very effective
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The jet divers may be a better fit or those slide divers that were mentioned.. I've used jets before.. sometimes takes ALOT more line out the back to get desired depths, but also very effective
But they won't take the bait out to the side.
Dipsies will.
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I had smelt and tiny perch trip the lite bite this year.
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I've been here, just letting some responses accumulate and tied down with work. I have watched tons of you tube vids and other tidbits of info from the web. This is pretty much what I wanted, A full understanding of why I don't see them used much on Winni. I had considered a second down rigger, the cost difference and a day on Ontario last month got me thinking about the dipsys, I have zero experience with them. My main objective is to fight fish on straight mono. The lead core is very effective on Winni, I have 5 set-ups, I just hate how they can come in like a wet dish rag.
I appreciate the banter and advice, I will look harder at a second DR or evening a stacker on the one I have. As usual this site is a great resource. Sorry for the slow pick-up, work sucks lately, really looking forward to a week on the lake.
I'm also prob gonna pick up one of Alan's vertical flashers, I have all the colors one could want, might as well buy something else.
Thanks for your time and advice
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I'll be quiet after this.
If I were only going to Winni for a week AND I planned to fish Lake Ontario again in the future, I'd pick up a lite bite. Sounds like you have a lot of stuff already so what is a little more? Plus, as I mentioned, it has put a few extra fish in the boat. I have caught salmon between 12 and 22 inches on my slide diver this year, plus smelt and perch. All tripped them and all jumped and fought about the same as on leadcore. There have been days when everything but the LB was firing and days when it was a mix. I like the fact that they are directional and at times stealth produces. I have not found that the drag is really all that different than leadcore once tripped. They are a tool plain and simple.
That said, and I'm contradicting myself, you will not be happy running either a LB or a dipsey on mono. As said above, far too much stretch.
If you want to purchase a downrigger, that is your business. If you want out cheap, they are an option.
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But they won't take the bait out to the side.
Dipsies will.
Yes you are correct..
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Thanks, sorry if I wasn't clear, Ontario was a charter, never go there on my own. Also I fish Winni, off and on, all year. So my investments are focused on fishing winni.
Thanks for the input.
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Now why everyone gotta be talking about me...lmao......
SeaHunt is correct for our NH waters....Lite Bite Sliders or nothing.....even the smallest of Dipsy's are not a wise NH choice....Down Riggers or Leadcores will produce our small NH game fish :D
Hey, Tom.
Been thinking about you.
Particularly, in this thread. :laugh:
Thanks, sorry if I wasn't clear, Ontario was a charter, never go there on my own. Also I fish Winni, off and on, all year. So my investments are focused on fishing winni.
I think if you consider the money you'd have to shell out to get properly set up to pull dipsys, you'd be well on your way to buying at least a manual rigger.
You'll get a lot more use from a rigger.
And, there's no comparison between fighting a fish on light tackle vs a dipsy.
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And, there's no comparison between fighting a fish on light tackle vs a dipsy.
Agreed
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I know it may not be the answer you are looking for but if you are looking for a better fight from fish on winni in august another downrigger would be the way to go. I have stayed away from dipsys for all the reasons mentioned in this thread. I have only spoken with one gentlemen who used them on winni, but if he is to be believed he caught some nice lake trout with them. The lite bite set ups mentioned in this thread sound interesting to me, but I have not tried them yet.
I fished winni this past Sunday, and we were lucky enough to land 3 very very nice salmon in short succession. 2 on leadcore, and one on the rigger. The one I caught was via the downrigger, and it was by far the best fight of the three.
I fished winni last weekend. Got no hits on my downrigger, but I'm still learning on them. On sunday my only hit was on a "mini diver," braided line, with a dodger and fly. flouro broke (or knot failed) after a few seconds of fighting. I think these little things max out at 30 ft so it was a surprise. They do make me a little nervous the way the cross behind the boat even on the "side" setting
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I fished winni last weekend. Got no hits on my downrigger, but I'm still learning on them. On sunday my only hit was on a "mini diver," braided line, with a dodger and fly. flouro broke (or knot failed) after a few seconds of fighting. I think these little things max out at 30 ft so it was a surprise. They do make me a little nervous the way the cross behind the boat even on the "side" setting
The problem you have is that you are pulling a dodger and fly with a small dipsey that doesn't have much surface area.
Dodgers are very erratic, as they need to be in order to toss that fly from side to side to attract fish.
The dodger and fly pulls harder than the dipsey, so the dodger control where your line travels.
The side to side action pulls on the smaller dipseys and causes the dipsey to flip and then not track straight.
You wanna run dodgers, use a larger dipsey or run them off the rigger.
Small dipseys work will with spoons, worm harnesses, and thin body baits.
Lures that aren't too erratic and will track somewhat straight.
Good luck.
Mac
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Small dipseys work will with spoons, worm harnesses, and thin body baits.
Lures that aren't too erratic and will track somewhat straight.
Good luck.
Mac
Great info, thanks! I got to say I'm self taught fishing and boating, with little chance to learn from going out with others. These forums are very useful in helping me to be an effective angler before I'm too old to get in and out of a boat.
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OK, phase two, going to pick up a second down rigger. Looking for opinions on brands. Sticking with manual and looking at the Cannon Unitroll 10 right now. Any Big Jon users out there? Down to those two.
Anyone have experience with Chamberlain releases? Don't mind conventional releases but was looking at those as an option to setting up for lighter settings on smaller fish.
Thank you
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You won't find a better, easy to use terminal release than the Chamberlains for "our" kind of fish.
Roemer's are excellent releases also after you learn how to set them up.
I've never used a BJ manual, so I'm reserving comment on the riggers.
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I have two Big Jon "big water" manual riggers. They have large spools which actually gives them a faster retrieve than an electric?
I have so many Roemer releases that its too late to consider a new brand? I've never considered to hard to use, but I was trained by a Lake Ontario Charter Captn?
Dick
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I have two Big Jon "big water" manual riggers. They have large spools which actually gives them a faster retrieve than an electric?
That's not how it works! ???
At least some of us on here are still learning, so some clarification is in order.
Large spools that have large arbors and equal amounts of same sized cable are an advantage, but it takes a lot of manual RPM's to keep up with a decent electric rigger motor.
Regardless of where that story came from and how many frosted donuts you eat, You won't catch up to an electric rigger on the retrieve, especially when you're down deep.
If you have one of the high speed Cannons or a Scotty, you can bring it up, change the spoon and have it back down while the other guy with the manual is catching his breath during the initial retrieve.
Hate to think of it but one month would be just about the right amount of time to loosen lugs that hadn't been correctly tightened at time of purchase.
That's not how any of this works???
How many trips and how many miles per trip, per week or month led you to this assumption??? ;D
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Regardless of where that story came from and how many frosted donuts you eat, You won't catch up to an electric rigger on the retrieve, especially when you're down deep.
If you have one of the high speed electric Cannons or a Scotty, you can bring it up, change the spoon and have it back down while the other guy with the manual is catching his breath during the initial retrieve.
I agree 100%
I have used downriggers since back in the late 70's.
All kinds.
Prefer electrics..........STRONGLY!
But now have manuals on my boat.
(Wish they were electric)
We fish Erie for eyes and I rarely lower them past 100' and most of the time they go down somewhere between 50-80'.
Still, crank them up from from any depth greater than 50' and you get tired.
Those last 20-30' you slow the hello down.
And at the end of the day, if you did it a few dozen times, you gutz a sore arm.
If you have 2 riggers, it's twice the pain.
Forget about 4 or 6 riggers.
I'm selling the boat in 3-4 yrs when I retire and move to Florida.
So I'll suffer and not upgrade to electrics.
Unless someone out there wants to swap me even for a pair of Cannons with 4-6' booms.
:whistling:
Mac
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I'd like to know if they make chamberlain releases that tether away from the cable. Attaching to the cable was causing snags, so I switched to the Scotty releases that have a length of wire or mono for some distance
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I'd like to know if they make chamberlain releases that tether away from the cable. Attaching to the cable was causing snags, so I switched to the Scotty releases that have a length of wire or mono for some distance
No.
Chamberlains attach directly to the cable. If you tried to tether them, I'm pretty sure your main line would not set in the release angle as needed. They need to be attached at both ends to something to work properly.
Attaching the chamberlain to the cable was not the cause of your snags.
Where it was attached may have been if you were using blades?
If you could give specifics on how you tried the chamberlain, where your line was snagged or wrapped etc. maybe we could help.
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Seahunt, I would be interested in hearing how you set up a vertical or horizontal flasher. My plan right now is to attach the chamberlain as intended, right to ball from cable.
How would you run flashers in that set up with out getting a tangle?
Thanks
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Seahunt, I would be interested in hearing how you set up a vertical or horizontal flasher. My plan right now is to attach the chamberlain as intended, right to ball from cable.
How would you run flashers in that set up with out getting a tangle?
Thanks
One way is to attach the flasher onto the tail of your cannonball.
(ours have an eye bolt on the tail)
Then attach your release above the ball about 6-12".
This will provide enough separation between the flasher and the release.
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But the chamberlains appear to attach directly to the ball, so that wouldnt be that far above the ball??
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Get a chamberlain stacker release, and then run it above the flasher.
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Get a chamberlain stacker release, and then run it above the flasher.
Yup!
Or, add a short 6-12" cable (with a heavy duty snap swivel and each end) below your chamberlain and then to the ball.
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ive never run the release that close to the ball, more like 3 feet. do you find it makes that much difference. would be a nightmare on my boat trying to get it setup that close
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ive never run the release that close to the ball, more like 3 feet. do you find it makes that much difference. would be a nightmare on my boat trying to get it setup that close
I usually run mine about the same with flashers on. I started running them right on the ball, and did notice a big uptick when I ran them about 3' above th flasher. This is probably attributable to the fact that I was seeing more tangles than fish when they are set up right next to each other. I have always felt like the salmon see the flasher as a school of fish, and when the lure/fly is running just behind and above the flasher that the fish would see it as walking and an easy meal.
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Or, add a short 6-12" cable (with a heavy duty snap swivel and each end) below your chamberlain and then to the ball.
ive never run the release that close to the ball, more like 3 feet. do you find it makes that much difference. would be a nightmare on my boat trying to get it setup that close
Yes and yes.
If you go Mac's route, I'd just use a good rigger ball snubber. I don't use them, but have on other boats. They make a soft handle for putting the ball in or out.
I keep my Chamberlain 3' + or - above the ball like fishlessman.
It answers the how to attach blades question also.
I attach the top of the chamberlain to the rigger cable snap swivel. The bottom attaches to the top swivel of the vertical flasher. You can attach the bottom snap of the vertical to the ball and attach your horizontals to the tail eye of the rigger ball. If everything is done correctly as described you will not get tangles.
Due to the up and down depth changes we have here and almost inevitable bottom bouncing that can happen in our lakes... I attach the bottom of the vertical blades to a 150# or better 3 way swivel. I'm going to call the eye of that swivel (where it attaches to the vertical) the top. The bottom eye of the swivel is permanently crimped/attached to a 12-18"piece of 60# braided wire (which I make up) can be permanently attached to the ball or 150# quality snap swivel which would snap to the ball of choice. I attach my horizontals to the remaining eye of the 3 way swivel.
Quality flashers use 150# braided wire. The 60-80# braid set up creates a sacrificial breaking point in the set up. Should I hit bottom, I'd rather lose a ball than 2 flashers, a chamberlain and a ball.
No stackers needed with the above set up....
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Yes and yes.
If you go Mac's route, I'd just use a good rigger ball snubber. I don't use them, but have on other boats. They make a soft handle for putting the ball in or out.
I keep my Chamberlain 3' + or - above the ball like fishlessman.
It answers the how to attach blades question also.
I attach the top of the chamberlain to the rigger cable snap swivel. The bottom attaches to the top swivel of the vertical flasher. You can attach the bottom snap of the vertical to the ball and attach your horizontals to the tail eye of the rigger ball. If everything is done correctly as described you will not get tangles.
Due to the up and down depth changes we have here and almost inevitable bottom bouncing that can happen in our lakes... I attach the bottom of the vertical blades to a 150# or better 3 way swivel. I'm going to call the eye of that swivel (where it attaches to the vertical) the top. The bottom eye of the swivel is permanently crimped/attached to a 12-18"piece of 60# braided wire (which I make up) can be permanently attached to the ball or 150# quality snap swivel which would snap to the ball of choice. I attach my horizontals to the remaining eye of the 3 way swivel.
Quality flashers use 150# braided wire. The 60-80# braid set up creates a sacrificial breaking point in the set up. Should I hit bottom, I'd rather lose a ball than 2 flashers, a chamberlain and a ball.
No stackers needed with the above set up....
change inevitable bottom bouncing to intentional ;D theres spots where i fish i want to hit bottom and drag the ball thru the sand off the edge. no way with my setup to go closer than 3 feet on my boat, the 4 foot fishlander downrigger i have bounces more than any rigger ive seen and i made my mount like a small diving board for extra bounce. the ball really gets tossed around down there when the wind picks up
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change inevitable bottom bouncing to intentional ;D theres spots where i fish i want to hit bottom and drag the ball thru the sand off the edge. no way with my setup to go closer than 3 feet on my boat, the 4 foot fishlander downrigger i have bounces more than any rigger ive seen and i made my mount like a small diving board for extra bounce. the ball really gets tossed around down there when the wind picks up
Drill a 3/16" diameter hole in the bottom of your weight.
Then cement a 3/16" diameter by 12" stainless steel rod into it.
Here is a link to welding rods that will work, but I think you could get something at a better price with some investigation. Like McMaster-Carr.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Demon-E308L-16-Stainless-Electrode/dp/B010HWU2Q2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1502310263&sr=1-2&keywords=stainless+weld+rod+3%2F16 (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Demon-E308L-16-Stainless-Electrode/dp/B010HWU2Q2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1502310263&sr=1-2&keywords=stainless+weld+rod+3%2F16)
Now you have a dragging rod that stirs up the bottom at it moves along, but it also keeps the ball up off the bottom to avoid hanging up.
Like the bait walker below -
(https://www.myfishfinder.com/fishing_forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fishinfo.com%2Ffishing-articles%2Fuploads%2Fbottombouncerrigwhite.jpg&hash=9ff21acd0bfaeda238849ab690fac0a8)
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change inevitable bottom bouncing to intentional ;D theres spots where i fish i want to hit bottom and drag the ball thru the sand off the edge. no way with my setup to go closer than 3 feet on my boat, the 4 foot fishlander downrigger i have bounces more than any rigger ive seen and i made my mount like a small diving board for extra bounce. the ball really gets tossed around down there when the wind picks up
;)
This is a good example of what I've noticed in a lot of different regions/fisheries including great lake tactics that I appreciate. I can get to your lake in the same amount of time it takes me to get to northern Winni.
The boys in Maine do use some common methods that we commonly don't. But I regress...
Most, not all, Winni guys target salmon. In Maine, from what I've observed, for many, togue is the most targeted species. I do sometimes target lakers, only if and after the salmon bite shuts down on Winni. I know I sacrifice some lakers by not dragging bottom but I feel more comfortable (using verticals ) if my release is 10' above.
Re: Fishlanders, I've never used one but I believe the guy who started that company left Big John and started it?
Hence the bouncy booms. Congrats on fabricating the spring board mount. I assume it's made so the whole rig stays on the boat after a hard snag?
Drill a 3/16" diameter hole in the bottom of your weight.
Then cement a 3/16" diameter by 12" stainless steel rod into it.
Clever idea, Mac. :)
I've heard of guys around here targeting lakers back in the day, with window weights and/or chain.
Before riggers and depth finders, many dragged wire and copper lines.
There must have been plenty of lost gear before they learned the ins and outs of those bottoms.
There's more than one way to skin a cat. ;D
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Do you ever have days were no flashers outfishes flashers?
Do you always go with the vert/horiz combo?
One or the other?
Sorry for all the questions, have never used my DR much, now I have two, want to get it close at the start.
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;)
This is a good example of what I've noticed in a lot of different regions/fisheries including great lake tactics that I appreciate. I can get to your lake in the same amount of time it takes me to get to northern Winni.
The boys in Maine do use some common methods that we commonly don't. But I regress...
Most, not all, Winni guys target salmon. In Maine, from what I've observed, for many, togue is the most targeted species. I do sometimes target lakers, only if and after the salmon bite shuts down on Winni. I know I sacrifice some lakers by not dragging bottom but I feel more comfortable (using verticals ) if my release is 10' above.
Re: Fishlanders, I've never used one but I believe the guy who started that company left Big John and started it?
Hence the bouncy booms. Congrats on fabricating the spring board mount. I assume it's made so the whole rig stays on the boat after a hard snag? Clever idea, Mac. :)
I've heard of guys around here targeting lakers back in the day, with window weights and/or chain.
Before riggers and depth finders, many dragged wire and copper lines.
There must have been plenty of lost gear before they learned the ins and outs of those bottoms.
There's more than one way to skin a cat. ;D
lots of sandy dropoffs and shoals i can bang off off for miles on end keeping the ball near the thermocline on sebago. this can wear out vertical flashers so i stick with just the horizontals now. the salmon are hanging on those edges at sunrise. if i break the mount its because i tore off the transom. fishlanders are very similar to big jon captains, i have one corner bouncing and the other is shorter and rigid.
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lots of sandy dropoffs and shoals i can bang off off for miles on end keeping the ball near the thermocline on sebago. this can wear out vertical flashers so i stick with just the horizontals now. the salmon are hanging on those edges at sunrise. if i break the mount its because i tore off the transom. fishlanders are very similar to big jon captains, i have one corner bouncing and the other is shorter and rigid.
Sounds great.
Miles of sandy shoals would definitely open up new possibilities. :)