Why would you roll the dice on a new rig? Or even an old one.
Especially if you can do the work yourself.
Stabilize the fuel in the tank and run the motor(s) until that stabilized fuel is in and used in the motor.
Pull the spark plugs and spray the cylinders with a little silicone spray. Not tons, only a little to coat the walls of each cylinder. Then turn over the motor to spread the silicone before replacing the plugs.
Change the crankcase oil and filter if it’s a 4st. Change all fuel filters too.
Then drain and refill the lower unit with new gear lube. Pull the prop and inspect things - fishing line, lube leaking past the prop shaft seal, etc. Replace the prop.
Outboards drain the cooling water so no need to flush with pink antifreeze. I/O’s need flushing - thoroughly!! Block, hoses, water pump, lower unit, and exhaust riser(s). I/O’s have a lot of drain plugs. Locate every single one of them!! I used to flush with pink stuff, run the motor for 10-15 seconds without the cups, and EE flush with pink stuff a second time. A cracked block will ruin next summer for sure.
Don’t forget the batteries. Top them off with distilled water and charge them up to 100%. Then disconnect the ground wires (to avoid sparks). I used to simply leave them on the boat till spring. Some pull them. Some put them in the basement. Some put them on a maintenance charge. YMMV. But NEVER leave them on a cheap trickle charger. They don’t shut down when the battery is fully charged. They just keep shoving current (heat) into the battery and will eventually warp the plates and they short out and the battery becomes toast. Use a float style maintenance charger!!!
Spend an afternoon.
Cheap insurance.
Or pay your dealer to do it.
But do it.
Good luck.