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Author Topic: fly fishing  (Read 2418 times)

mullen2525

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fly fishing
« on: Jun 08, 2005, 07:46 PM »
my dad gave me his old fly fishing gear this winter and i'm trying to pick up this new form of fishing but i'm havign problems finding fishing spots with adequate room for fly fisherman.  Since I don't own waders yet I need a place with enough room for my back cast.  I'm not looking to steal anyones spots just looking for some advice on plces I might try in the Northeast/methuen area that will give me the opportunity of catching fish.  Thanks

mikeyc0203

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Re: fly fishing
« Reply #1 on: Jun 08, 2005, 07:58 PM »
mullen i know of a good trout pond that i was there one day and there was a man fly fishin...i dont know if u wanna go for trout or not but this place is in Andover..

mullen2525

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Re: fly fishing
« Reply #2 on: Jun 09, 2005, 12:17 AM »
if you'd post or PM me the place that'd be great

fishercat

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  • hard water or soft water just let me fish
Re: fly fishing
« Reply #3 on: Jun 09, 2005, 06:04 AM »
Since I don't own waders yet I need a place with enough room for my back cast.  Thanks
   mullen have you ever used a rollcast? Work good for tight spots.
I fish for those "stupid fish" BASS. Largemouth Smallmouth Stripers, and even Rock bass.

mullen2525

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Re: fly fishing
« Reply #4 on: Jun 09, 2005, 11:38 AM »
i've heard of it but not exactly sure how to go about doing it, any help  :-[

fishercat

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  • hard water or soft water just let me fish
Re: fly fishing
« Reply #5 on: Jun 10, 2005, 08:01 AM »
mullen Try this should help.

The roll cast is useful when obstacles behind an angler prevent a normal backcast. Those who don't yet have this cast in their arsenal may assume that the roll cast is a special technique requiring expanded abilities, and a whole new set of motions. Not at all. A basic roll cast is nothing more than a standard overhead cast made with different timing!

Even a beginner can make roll casts by following the precepts of the Foundation Casting Stroke coupled with pantomime practice methods. The two keys to roll casting are proper timing and controlled application of energy.




The Roll Cast
#1. Begin with the rod tip parallel to the water's surface.
#2. Lift your arm up-and-back, going slowly and smoothly, allowing the line to slide across the water toward you.
#3. Tip your wrist back until the rod is in the one o'clock position and the line hangs by your side.
#4. Make a karate-chop forward stroke to roll the line out in front of yourself. Stop high to aerialize the line. Stop low to keep it on the water.

The foundation casting stroke makes a solid starting point for the roll cast. It makes learning simple and uses your strong shoulder muscles, allowing maximum energy to be applied. In addition, once the foundation motion has become ingrained, it is an easy proposition to modify it to achieve whatever goals you need the roll cast to meet.

To make a roll cast, begin with the rod tip parallel to the water's surface. Lift your arm slowly and smoothly in a back-and-up direction until your hand is next to your face, allowing your wrist to tip back until the rod is at the one o'clock position (just like an overhead cast). It is critical that the line not be aerialized--it must slide smoothly across the water's surface until it hangs by your side. To prevent tangling the line on the rod, tip your rod arm slightly away from your body (just a few degrees). Once the line has stopped sliding toward you, make a karate-chop forward stroke to roll the line out in front of you (see animation above).

Because the line is held by water tension, extra down-and-forward acceleration will be needed in comparison to a standard overhead cast to achieve the same distance. That does not mean slapping the rod tip onto the water in a wild attempt to break surface tension. Rather, it means adding speed during the acceleration phase of the cast. Everything else remains the same.

The forward portion of the cast can be rolled into the air or across the water depending upon the rod tip's stopping position. Stop higher and you'll get an air-carried roll. Stop lower and you'll be rolling in a more water-based manner. A forward cast that is jerked forward or looped around in a non-committal arcing motion will result in line piling in front of you. I usually prefer to aerialize the forward porition of the roll cast as much as possible. This allows me to modify the cast (with a puddle, reach, hump, or other mend) as needed.

Shooting line with a roll cast is very similar to shooting line with an overhead cast. On the forward cast, line is shot immediately after the rod has stopped. Stopping the rod high (and thus aerializing the roll) will facilitate easier shooting. Allowing some line to slip through the guides as the rod is being raised on the "backcast" is an additional way to shoot line without having to rely completely on the aerialized forward cast.

It is also possible to haul on the forward cast portion of the roll, which results in greater distance and line speed than is achievable with normal methods. As with an overhead cast, the peak of the haul should come just as maximum energy is being transferred from rod to line (as close to the "stop" as possible).

In addition to shooting and hauling, the roll cast can also be drifted. By slightly accelerating the backcast portion of the roll, the belly of the line will move more swiftly up and back, traveling past you. As the line comes past, you simply continue to reach up and back (the drift). Make the forward cast before the line falls completely to the ground or water. This modification not only "cleans" more line off of the water, but allows for a longer acceleration phase on the forward cast, adding more energy to the line. Coupling this with a haul and/or shoot can allow you to fire off impressive rolls.

An even more exaggerated form of this technique uses a thrusted backcast, resulting in all but a few feet of line being aerialized. This is really just a variation of a Forward Spey, and when combined with forward haul-and-shoot, you have the potential to roll cast an entire fly line.

The roll cast is not limited to simply presenting the fly. One of its most common uses is the roll cast pick-up. This technique is used when excessive slack or a full-sink or sinking-tip line makes pick-up difficult. A quick roll cast will straighten a pile of slack and help lift submerged line to the surface, allowing you to then make a normal aerialized pick-up (or a second roll cast) to present the fly.

The roll cast also comes into play when casting up-current to spooky fish that won't tolerate line spray or false-casting. Rather than casting at and over the fish, you feed line down-current until the length needed for reaching the fish is achieved (or enough line is out to comfortably shoot the rest). At that point, you make a down-current roll cast, stopping high to aerialize the line. As soon as the roll is complete (but before the line falls back to the water), you turn and make one precise up-current cast to the fish. This tactic reduces line spray over the fish, and allows for only a single cast to be made.

The roll cast is truly a "must-have" technique. It not only is the key to unlocking many difficult situations, but its versatility extends beyond simply presenting the fly. Learn to use the many facets of this technique and you'll soon be rolling on your way to more fly fishing success.
I fish for those "stupid fish" BASS. Largemouth Smallmouth Stripers, and even Rock bass.

pointer103

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Re: fly fishing
« Reply #6 on: Jun 10, 2005, 11:38 AM »
Fishercat, sounds like you've done this before...

Mullen, be carefull, flyfishing can be addicting, the next thing you know you'll be buying a vise and tying your own flies...

Lee
Tight lines and BIG fish!

mullen2525

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Re: fly fishing
« Reply #7 on: Jun 11, 2005, 01:16 AM »
Fishercat, sounds like you've done this before...

Mullen, be carefull, flyfishing can be addicting, the next thing you know you'll be buying a vise and tying your own flies...

Lee

hmmmm  have only been fly fishing this summer and only been out a couple times and the thought has already crossed my mind, d**n these outdoor sports that make me spend all time and money, oh well I love them and I can't think of anything i'd rather spend my time and money on.

and thanks a lot fishercat, I havent got a chance to try this new casting technique since i've just seen the post but your description is so good that I can visualize the motions,  i'll probably bust out the fly gear and try for some panfish in the next few days, wish me luck, and oh any tips on fly patterns for panfish would be great, i'm assuming things resembling mosquites, black flies, and ants and such presented on the surface should work, just let me know if I got the right idea, thanks

buckmanJR86

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Re: fly fishing
« Reply #8 on: Jun 11, 2005, 10:14 AM »
any flie works for sunfish tie (or buy) something with lotsa hackle that floats.

look at the rivers and streams forum to see my post about the swift river. awsome awsome spot for trout!

 



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