I know this is an old thread but I think you might get a kick out of this Coleman Scanoe that I converted to a drift boat...
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The rowing frame is fitted galvanized pipe and fittings shaped to extend 12 in out and 6 in above gunwhales and clamped to boat's supports in midsection. Teamed with the 10 foot extended boat oars and the doughnut oar locks, I get plenty of torque and draw on each stroke while rowing from a cooler that I bungee to the supports. The oars work just like the real thing. I installed floor sections of 1/4 in OSB by cable tying them to the floor support pipes in the boat's bottom. This deals with the colman softbottom/stability issue. I removed the rear foam and plastic cover and moved the rear seat forward to provide more leg room for the aft fisherman. I took a couple of truck innertubes and squeezed them into nylon "girdles" that I sewed and strap them to the underside of the rowing frames for pontoons. I also installed a bowmount anchor pulley with pulley system all the way to rower position. I also created a set of mini-rowing frames and oarlocks for the rear person to use with 6 ft oars for cruising faster.
It rows pretty efficiently against the current, though it's length and flat keel keeps it from turning like a Mackenzie style drifter...no rocker to speak of. It really flies with current. With both rowing in time, it will gain well against the current(usually5-7mph). But anything over 1/2 mile will wear us out. The stability is incredible, as both of us can stand and cast without fear of tipping. I use it in the fall for duck hunting on the ponds and river and it is a great shooting platform. I might have 150 bucks into the mods, if that, mostly in the oarlocks and pipe fittings. I would use my Minnkota 36 or 5hp Evinrude on it but I don't have a title for the scanoe and the state won't let me register it as a motorboat.
