I promised to provide an update on things as I moved along.
Yesterday I finished the electrical upgrades.
The Furrion 25A solar controller took a dump the very first day.
The trailer manufacturer immediately replaced it for me, but I didn't install it.
Instead, I installed a Renogy 60A solar controller.
I planned on adding three 200W solar panels to the existing 165W panel that came with the camper, so I needed a unit that could handle more current.
I bought the bluetooth module option for the controller too.
It allows me to monitor the controller from my smartphone.
I also added a small breaker in the PV line for maintenance purposes.
Here is a photo of the bad Furrion solar controller -
Here is a photo of the new Renogy solar controller and breaker -
Here is a list of the electrical upgrades I made -
2 - 12VDC, 280ah, LiFePO4 batteries (gives me a total of 560ah)
1 - Renogy 2000W inverter to convert 12VDC to 120VAC - this will run everything AC in the camper, even the AC, but I probably won't ever run the AC on the inverter as it would only allow for about 3-4 hrs of runtime before the batteries become too low.
1 - Renogy 40A DC-DC charger - this allows my truck's alternator to charge things as I travel down the road, along with the solar panels. The 7 pin trailer connector only allows for 7-9A of charging capacity. I wanted more than that.
1 - Victron BlueTooth shunt to monitor everything going into and out of the batteries. The BT allows me to see it on my smartphone.
1 - Victron fused buss bar
4 - Disconnect switches, one 300A main for the batteries, and three 250A for the other DC feeds from the buss.
The inverter installation and troubleshooting proved the most troublesome.
The original installation called for an auto switch to run power accordingly when using the inverter and around it when not.
I bench tested things before the installation and found the auto switch not reliable.
I installed it anyway, and then regretted it.
Didn't work at all installed into the camper electrical circuit.
So, I designed a new system with a manual breaker.
Same breaker type I used on the solar controller PV.
Lots of rework, but it worked fine in the end.
Here are some photos showing the installation. The second photo shows that auto switch on the inverter. -
Then came the soft start for the AC unit - basically a large capacitor that allows for the AC unit to start without a huge current surge.
It allows for me to run the AC unit on only a 2000W inverter vs the standard 3000W unit.
I have developed a very severe fear of heights over the years.
So much so, that it makes it very dangerous for me to get off, or back onto, a ladder.
This really made doing my job over the years interesting.
Lots of roof work, and catwalks in plants. hated it!
So, my son Christopher helped by going up top last Fall and installing the soft start.
Here are some photos he took. Notice the last photo that shows the original 165W solar panel that came with the camper -
Next, we did the solar panels.
Again, I had to wait for Chris to help.
We started this 2 weeks ago when he and my grandson arrived at Easter.
However, one of the three panels was smashed when I opened the crate.
I kicked myself in the butt for not opening the crates sooner and inspecting them.
Anyway, we sent it back (Amazon rocks!!!) and the new panel showed yesterday in time for Chris to get it up there and help me with the wiring interconnect.
He was up on the roof and I worked from both my extension ladder and my 8' step ladder along the sides of the camper.
Lots of work getting these installed, sealing the roof, and getting all the interconnect wiring run.
Here are the photos of that work and the broken (smashed) panel that was returned -
Here are some screen of what I see on my iphone from the BT.
The solar controller BT -
The shunt BT -
Tons of electrical work done.
This, along with the generator, will allow us to camp anywhere off grid (boondocking) without having to plug into shore power.
Rest stops, Walmarts, Bass Pro, Cracker Barrels, Harvest Hosts, pretty much anywhere instead of paying for a campsite in a campground.
Next large project is replacing the leaf springs and axles.
I will also change out the center support for the leaf springs to a unit with rubber cushions and wet bolts with grease zerk fitting and bronze bushings insted of the poly bushings that come from the factory.
The current axles and are rated for 3000# each (6000# for the camper).
The springs are each rated at only 1500# (6000# for the camper total)
The new axles will be rated for 5200# each (10,400# total).
The new wheel hubs on the axles will be rated for 4400# each (17,600# total).
The new leaf springs will be rated for 4400# each (17,600# total).
We are planning a trip to Alaska with the camper in 2026 and the roads aren't the best, to say the least.
Many people do this trip and find out their axles and springs aren't up to the task.
This results in bent axles and broken springs while on the road and it typically happens out in the sticks where you can't get service.
Serious breakdowns like this cost big bucks in towing and parts shipping.
So, I'm doing the work up front to avoid the headaches and huge costs.
The new axle assy, including the hubs, brakes, and leaf springs, fully assembled ready for installation is less than $1200.
I was going to do this install myself, but I found a local shop nearby that will do the installation for only $300.
So why not let them do it.
They also do metal fabrication and welding.
I will have them reinforce the leaf spring shackle mounts, so they don't bend either.
I'm also going to see if they want to reinforce the rear bumper on the camper and build me a large storage box to mount on it along with two spare tires.
Onward!
