my "new" boat!

[brokenline]

i pulled my dads old 14 foot crestliner out of the weeds today and after looking it over it needs new transom wood, bending and bench seat. i want to use a 25 hp chrystler on it, does this seem like over kill? it wieghs a ton with nothing in it.. i plan on making a front casting deck, installing a bowmount, fishfinder, rod holders, steering wheel and what not, nav lights, painting after a while of running to get all the crud off, and a few storage compartments up front.. ill get some pics up soon.

[BlackIce]

Not too sure on the adding of a steering wheel to that boat.  Looks like a ton of work involved.  Before going anywhere id be checking it for leaks.  Best of luck to you. 


p.s. There are a couple sites out there with boat restorations on them that you may find helpful.

[Raquettedacker]

   Looks like a big project, but if you have a place to work on it and dont plan on useing it this season you could have a sweet boat. Lots of sites and info on restoring boats. Good luck.       PS I would have the motor checked out first.....

 

[brokenline]

i had the motor on another boat and it ran fine all the way from idle to wot and the boat doesnt leak at all i had it in the lake with all the stuff in it for 4 hours and no water at all... im outa school so i have nothing to do but work on this.. what would be reccomended for the transom wood? ive heard that treated wood will corrrode aluminum??

[Raquettedacker]

      Marine grade is the way to go..

[ChenBassHead]

From what I know, Chrysler outboards are a nightmare when they need fixing. They're unreliable and really tough to get parts for. But that's just what my buddy, who works as a marine mechanic, said. As far as putting in a steering wheel, its shouldn't be too bad if you just use a cable/pulley system. Overall, looks like it should be a fun project. I want to do the same with my boat when I have the money.

[fuldraw]

i had the motor on another boat and it ran fine all the way from idle to wot and the boat doesnt leak at all i had it in the lake with all the stuff in it for 4 hours and no water at all... im outa school so i have nothing to do but work on this.. what would be reccomended for the transom wood? ive heard that treated wood will corrrode aluminum??

yes, you are right if you use the new presure treated wood it will carrode the aluminum the only way to go is marine grade plywood

[brokenline]

i talked to a mechanic today and he said i could get by with extorior grade plywood cuz the marine grade wood is $100 for a 4x8 sheet!!!!!!!!! ive looked around and have found 3 great parts suppliers 1 is local the others is out of state..  got the cables and pullies installed now just gotta make a console for the wheel.. would it work to put it on the right side and then put all my stuff on the left?

[piscesman]

Why can't you use Pressure-Treated plywood if a heavy coat of paint is applied??? You could then put a stiff piece of metal over where the engine is screwed on.
      Kim

[geothefisher]

If you really must put in steering and controls, in a small boat like that i would recommend putting it in the middle, like a center console to keep the boat from listing to the side you are sitting on.

[fuldraw]

im really not sure if the paint would work but i do know once they stopped using the pressure treated wood with arsonnick or however you spell it the new pressure treated corrods aluminum big time we cant use aluminum flashing anymore when we build decks we have to use copper flashing

Why can't you use Pressure-Treated plywood if a heavy coat of paint is applied??? You could then put a stiff piece of metal over where the engine is screwed on.
      Kim

[rgfixit]

Why can't you use Pressure-Treated plywood if a heavy coat of paint is applied??? You could then put a stiff piece of metal over where the engine is screwed on.
      Kim

If you're talking about repairing the transom, Marine grade would be the way to go.
Pressure-treated plywood, often called "Wolmanized" or P.T. plywood, is NOT " Marine grade" plywood, and those designations do not make the two products arbitrarily interchangeable.

Pressure treated plywood is common plywood that has been subjected to pressure treatment with chemicals to prevent the wood from decaying, or rotting. To some degree, it also discourages insect damage because of the chemicals involved . Pressure treated plywood, however, is not suitable for marine use. The treatment of plywood with copper and arsenic compounds under pressure simply does not make the plywood waterproof, and worse, continuous exposure to water will leach the preservative chemicals from the pressure-treated wood.

Again, pressure treated plywood is ordinary, interior-grade plywood that has been chemically-treated, and it is often made with softer woods to enable the penetration of the wood treating chemicals, with no special care effected to eliminate all gaps or voids.

G1S plywood, (good-one-side) is plywood with one side graded "Select" to show no defects or gaps and is an aesthetic consideration.

Exterior grade plywood is made with water-resistant glue, but the exterior shell is the only layer that is made void-free. There may be gaps, voids and the resulting points of weakness in the interior layers. When you cut a sheet of exterior grade plywood, you may expose a gap on the cut surface.

Marine grade plywood, on the other hand, is a different creature. Marine grade plywood is assembled gap and void-free in all layers, and laminated together with special, water-proof glue that holds the various layers together.

When immersed, water has absolutely no effect on the glue or the strength of the lamination of marine grade plywood. Marine grade plywood will not commonly delaminate, bubble, buckle, or warp. Upon cutting marine grade plywood, no voids will be discovered on the cut edges. It is also usually constructed of harder woods such as Douglas Fir, or Western Larch.

Marine grade is a superior grade of plywood, and a substantially better product.

Do choose carefully when selecting plywood for marine use. Although it is more expensive, marine-grade plywood, when finished appropriately, will outlast pressure-treated plywood by far. The ordinary glues used in plywood , pressure-treated or not, will eventually fail for structural reasons.

When the transom on your boat fails in the middle of the lake, the wisdom of having saved fifty dollars by buying cheaper pressure-treated plywood instead of marine grade will come to question rather quickly. In this application, and other critical structural applications, let us suggest that "the RIGHT wood IS good", and marine grade is best.

RG

[brokenline]

we got  extiror grade for the back.. it doesnt sit in the lake all day and  will only have to last me 5 to 7 years.. will i be ok with this wood?? we are also going to put 3 coats of minwax deck sealer on it.. also beefed up the transon from 1.75" thick to 2" thick.. im not in the budget for a $!100 sheet of plywood right now..

[casey10]

I also used a small  1/4" thick "cutting board" from the dollar store under the motor clamps so it doesnt make big dents in the wood when you tighten them. That white plastic really works good.

[brokenline]

getttin somewhere!!! not a whole lot more wood work to do just the back seat..