Designed to fail..And I hate it...

[Baitbucket]

The last few trips out my trolling motor had been acting up. Being fairly mechanical inclined, the engineer in me said "lets pull it apart and take a look".

Three bolts later and the lower unit is disassembled, and the issue is evident... Water has been getting in...

I would like to point out, i bought this $1800 trolling motor brand new. It has only ever been fished in the pristine waters of the Quabbin Reservoir, is only used 6 months of the year, is covered when not in use, and removed from the boat during the 6 months Quabbin is closed and stored in my heated basement.

The issue is with the seals and the armature housing gasket. Being rubber and silicone, they compress over time and waster seeps into the housing where the armature is. Which doesnt like water.

You can see in the pics that there is rust and somehow, corrosion around the bolt holes that have O rings and the rough shape the large white gasket is in.

Luckily my armature tested fine using the 180, bar to bar, and ground test. But i ordered a new one with the full gasket kit and brushes anyway for $100.

So the good news is, its pretty easy to fix and only costs 100$. But its very design is setup for failure. So if u got a similar trolling motor, it may be wise to pull it apart every other season to change the seals, which is about 10$ for the kit. Ill be silicone over the bolts to keep any water from getting in that way. I may put a thin bead around the gasket as well.

[westernmas]

I just bought a trolling motor, nothing special, but couldn't really understand why they offer a saltwater and freshwater version.  I'd be curious if they designed the saltwater units in the same manner.  From what I could tell you could get the same amount of power in both fresh and salt so the only difference seemed to be the construction.

[lowaccord66]

I just bought a trolling motor, nothing special, but couldn't really understand why they offer a saltwater and freshwater version.  I'd be curious if they designed the saltwater units in the same manner.  From what I could tell you could get the same amount of power in both fresh and salt so the only difference seemed to be the construction.

The riptide units have scaraficial zinc anodes.  Guts are the same. 

Will that's a shame.  I have found these units to be relatively reliable and haven't bought one new yet having had success buying used from others. 

I'd (and I assume others) would be very interested in a step by step on this.  I need to replace the collar the motor sits on in the down position as its cracked!

[zwiggles]

I'd (and I assume others) would be very interested in a step by step on this.  I need to replace the collar the motor sits on in the down position as its cracked!

X2, if you were so inclined it would be neat to see.

[Baitbucket]

  mine was so bad it was shorting out and jerking on and off.

This is what mine was doing.

Its difficult to do a "Step by step process" as there are differences in how they are built, depending on the version/mode motor. But lill put something together when i get the parts in.

[Jethro]

The riptide units have scaraficial zinc anodes.  Guts are the same.

Not anymore!! At least not Minn Kota. The manual to my 2019 build Riptide Ulterra talk about a sacrificial zinc anode when installing the prop nut and I didn't find one in my packaging. So I called Minn Kota and they said they no longer provide or even make the zinc which was just a collar beneath the prop nut. Their reasoning to me was that they believe the materials and construction are so good that it's not necessary. WHAT?? Does not sit well with me. I agree, they are made to fail.

Part Number: PNKG
Minn Kota Prop Nut Kit G
Beginning in October of 2019, Minn Kota eliminated the sacrificial anode from all of its products. Minn Kota is confident their saltwater coating and painting process eliminates the need for the anode. Furthermore, due to recent environmental regulations, Minn Kota can no longer offer the sacrificial anode as an accessory or part.

[lowaccord66]

Well thats a shame Jethro. 

[Baitbucket]

Their reasoning to me was that they believe the materials and construction are so good that it's not necessary.

Meanwhile, mine is leaking, and the paint inside the lower unit is peeling off.. And it has never seen a drop of salt water lol...

[Mac Attack]

I had a Terrova on my Lund from 2013 and never had an issue.  Never had an issue and traded it with the boat last Fall.
I also have a 45# transom mount that is 15+ yrs old.  This one only gets used on sporadic trips to Canada each year.  No problems with this one either.

That I’m aware of.

[filetandrelease]

 Had a 55# on my 16’  tracker sold the boat after 7 years and it was still running flawlessly,
 Got a terova 112# it’s now 11years old and seems to be holding up well

[Mac Attack]

Hey Geoff
Did MK say if the Riptides have better seals?

[lowaccord66]

Had a 55# on my 16’  tracker sold the boat after 7 years and it was still running flawlessly,
 Got a terova 112# it’s now 11years old and seems to be holding up well

That's what I'm rocking now Fred.  A 2014 unit.  36v.  Does the trick.

[Jethro]

Hey Geoff
Did MK say if the Riptides have better seals?

I didn't ask them that question, wish I had. From my research there are only two differences (especially now that they don't supply a zinc)- the white paint, and the warranty covering use in salt water.

And by the way, the white paint sucks, it's getting very dirty. The drive unit itself, where it sits in the saddles, that is all marked up black. You'd think they would make the saddles out of non-marking white rubber or plastic at least. But what can you expect for freakin' 3 grand.  

[fishinator]

I'm surprised none of the manufacturers have went to a mag-drive with a completely sealed motor. It would eliminate the need for a shear pins too.

[Mac Attack]

I am seriously rethinking the Ulterra and going with the Terrova instead.
My Terrova was 60”.
So a 72” will be more to lift.
But mine didn’t have that yo-yo lift assist spring mechanism.
I’m getting older by the minute but I think I can still go up front and lift a Terrova.
Of course my last one was a 24v motor and this one will be 36v.
I wonder if the lift assist on a 36v motor has a beefier spring than the 24v motor.