Thanks Mac. I guess I need to go in and replace one of races that had some pitting in it vs. the other side which is smooth. I tried briefly with a large screwdriver and was not successful. Rather than damage it and not be able to get it out I left it in. I did everything that was done in the video you posted.
Doesn't seem to be enough clearance to hold the Bearing Buddy in place with the outer seal. Thanks! The Youtube videos are great but they are all over the place with and without BB's so it's not clear. Yeah I know it's probably a stupid question but that's me.
Reminder to self...self replace entire stratos hub vs just the bearings....
Turn the hub over and support it between 2 blocks of wood.Get a BF hammer and a large drift pin or chisel and knock the outer race out from the opposite side.It takes a bit.One wack at 3 oclock.One wack at 6 oclockOne wack at 9 oclockand keep doing it till the race falls out.And if you split the race with the cold chisel, so what!It was junk to begin with.Put the new one back in the same way but don't use a screwdriver or chisel.Use a drift pin or something flat that won't damage the race.Tap it...3 oclock......6 oclock.........9 oclock.......etc.You will here it "ping" when the race gets seated fully into the hub.The sound when you hit it with the hammer will change to a "ping" when it gets seated.
Thanks Mac. I'll give it a shot as soon as I can find time again! I'm spending so much time with my elderly parents I feel like I might as well move in!
No problem bud!I don't want to post what might be obvious but felt I should cover things for those who want to know.Good luck partner!!!
Got er done. Even got the Bearing Buddy tapped in place on the one hub that was giving me issues. Man but what a bear getting one of the two races out on one of the hubs. And I still had trouble getting the zerk fitting disconnected after pumping in grease. And no, turning it has no effect. That's what I get for going cheap on the grease gun. ($20.00) I will be changing out the tip of this thing before I use it again!But just a question: If the weep hole on the side is there to allow excess grease to come out of one overfills, what good is it if the dust cover is over it? Maybe just to tell you initially if you have reached maximum capacity? Thank you all of you that offered advice especially Mac!
the relief hole is just to let you know it's full. If it wasn't covered by the dust boot it would let water in when submerged, defeating the purpose of them
This!!!!And thanks!Happy Trailering.
The washer (and in this case the castle nut) snug up to the inner race of the bearing. The inner race is stationary on the axle shaft. Because of this, you really don’t need the washer.The washer allows a little more flex when seating and adjusting the bearing is all.Hope this helps.